Basic Sewing I: Basic Sewing: Stitches, Types & Tackling – SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

A stitch is a single turn or loop of thread or yarn. In garment making, stitches join pieces of fabric together or decorate them. They are either temporary, put in to hold fabric while sewing and then removed, or permanent, which stay for the life of the garment. Tacking is the most common temporary stitch.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

1. Define a stitch.
2. Distinguish between temporary and permanent stitches.
3. Explain why temporary stitches are needed.
4. Describe even tacking, uneven tacking, long and short tacking, diagonal tacking and tailor’s tacks, and state a use of each.
5. Follow the rules for putting in and removing temporary stitches.

What are stitches?

A stitch is a single turn or loop of thread or yarn. In garment making, stitches are used to join pieces of fabric together or to decorate them.

We divide stitches into two main groups:

1. Temporary stitches: These are “placeholders”. We put them in to hold the fabric together while we work, and we pull them out once the “real” sewing is done.
2. Permanent stitches: These are meant to stay in the cloth for as long as the garment lasts.

Why do we need temporary stitches?

Imagine trying to sew a zipper onto a slippery silk dress. If you do not pin and “tack” it first, the fabric will slide around and your zipper will end up crooked. Temporary stitches keep everything exactly where it should be.

What is tacking?

Tacking is the most common temporary stitch. It is a long, loose running stitch made by hand. It is the tailor’s best friend.

• How to do it: You pass the needle in and out of the fabric, making long stitches on the top and short gaps underneath.
• Thread choice: We usually use a contrasting colour (for example, red thread on white fabric) so that it is easy to see and pull out later.
• The knot: Never use a strong knot for tacking. We want the thread to come out easily, so we usually leave a long “tail” of thread or use a very tiny, weak knot.

What are the types of tacking?

There are several styles of tacking. Depending on what you are sewing, you might need a different one.

Even and uneven tacking

1. Even tacking: The stitches and the spaces between them are the same length (about 1 cm). Use: For general sewing and holding seams together.
2. Uneven tacking: You make one very long stitch and then a very short one. Use: This is faster than even tacking. It is used for marking straight lines on fabric or holding large pieces of cloth together where there is not much “pull”.

Other types of tacking

1. Long and short tacking: A variation where you use a mix of long and short stitches to hold heavier fabrics.
2. Diagonal tacking (basting): The stitches look like slanting lines instead of going straight. Use: This is perfect for holding “layers” together, like putting a lining inside a jacket or holding pleats in place before you iron them.
3. Tailor’s tacks: These look like little loops of thread. Use: These are used to transfer markings (like where a button should go) from a paper pattern onto two layers of fabric at the same time.

What are the rules for temporary stitches?

To be a neat tailor, keep these tips in mind:

• Do not sew over them: When you take your fabric to the sewing machine for the permanent stitch, sew next to your tacking and avoid sewing right on top of it. If you sew over it, the tacking thread gets “trapped” and is very hard to pull out.
• Remove carefully: Once you have finished your permanent seam, use a seam ripper or small scissors to snip the tacking thread every few inches and gently pull it out. Never “yank” it, or you might tear your fabric.
• Use basting thread: If you can, buy “basting thread”. It is a special, soft thread that breaks easily, which makes it suitable for temporary work.

Class practical

Everyone should get a scrap of fabric and a needle. We are going to practise even tacking and tailor’s tacks. Remember that neatness counts, even if the stitch is only temporary.

Evaluation

1. What is a stitch?
2. State the difference between temporary and permanent stitches.
3. Why do we use a contrasting colour of thread for tacking?
4. State one use each of uneven tacking, diagonal tacking and tailor’s tacks.
5. Why should you not sew right on top of tacking stitches?

Assignment

Write short notes on even tacking and tailor’s tacks. For each one, say how it looks and state one use.