Trimmings and Decorative Features SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

What are Trimmings?

A Trimming is any extra material added to a garment to make it look more attractive. In the fashion industry, we call this “Surface Embellishment.”

Why do we use Trimmings?

1. Beauty: To add color, shine, or texture to a plain fabric.
2. Emphasis: To draw attention to a beautiful part of the body, like a slim waist or a graceful neckline.
3. To Hide Mistakes: Sometimes, a clever piece of lace can cover a small hole or a crooked seam!
4. Identity: Trimmings like “Braids” often tell us if a garment is for a uniform (like a pilot or a soldier) or for a traditional celebration.

The Golden Rule of Decoration: “Less is often more.” If you add too many trimmings, the dress will look “noisy” and messy. Choose one or two features and make them perfect.

Working with Lace

Lace is a delicate, “holey” fabric made by machine or hand. It adds a touch of class and femininity to any blouse or skirt.

Types of Lace Trimmings:

• Edging Lace: This has one straight edge and one scalloped (wavy) edge. It is sewn onto the hems of sleeves or skirts.
• Insertion Lace: Both edges are straight. It is sewn between two pieces of fabric to create a “see-through” window.
• Galloon Lace: Both edges are scalloped. It’s perfect for waistbands or headbands.

How to Sew Lace without Ruining It:

1. Use a Thin Needle: A thick needle will leave big holes in your delicate lace.
2. Matching Thread: Always match your thread to the thickest part of the lace pattern.
3. Invisible Stitching: If you are sewing lace onto a gown by hand, use a “Running Stitch” or a “Zig-zag” on the machine to let the lace stretch a little.

Braids and Ribbons

Braids are narrow strips of woven fabric. They are much stronger than lace and come in many colors and patterns (like the gold braids on military-style jackets).

Common Braids:

• Rick-Rack: That “zig-zag” wavy braid often used on children’s clothes.
• Soutache: A very thin, flexible braid used to create swirling patterns on the chest of a blouse.
• Bias Binding: While used for finishing edges, a contrasting color of bias tape can be used as a decorative braid.

Application Tip: Always “shrink” your braids before sewing them onto a garment. Some braids shrink more than the fabric when washed. If you don’t pre-wash them, your beautiful dress will “pucker” and wrinkle the first time it hits the water!

The Art of Appliqué

Appliqué comes from a French word meaning “to apply.” It involves cutting a shape out of one fabric and sewing it onto another.

Why it’s a Tailor’s Favorite: It’s the best way to use up those small “scraps” of expensive fabric (like Ankara or Silk) that are left over from big projects.

How to do a Simple Appliqué:

1. The Design: Draw a shape (like a flower, a star, or a bird) on a piece of fabric.
2. Stabilize: Iron a small piece of “paper stay” or interfacing behind the shape so it doesn’t fray while you sew.
3. The Stitch: Use a very close “Satin Stitch” (a tight zig-zag) on your machine to go around the edges. This “seals” the edges so they never fray.
4. Hand Method: You can also use a “Blanket Stitch” by hand for a more traditional, “artsy” look.

Practical Guide & Design Balance

When you are in the workshop today, think like a designer.

1. Weight Matching: Don’t put a heavy, thick braid on a very thin chiffon fabric. The braid will be too heavy and will make the fabric sag. Match light trimmings with light fabrics.
2. Placement for Balance: If you put a big lace design on the right shoulder, try to add a small decorative touch on the left hip or the opposite sleeve to “balance” the look.
3. The “Touch” Test: Before you sew a trimming onto the neckline, hold it against your skin. If it feels scratchy or itchy, don’t use it there! The customer will never wear the dress if it makes them uncomfortable.

Class Assignment: Take a plain scrap of calico fabric. Try to create a small “Heart” shape using Appliqué in the center, and finish the bottom edge with a piece of Edging Lace.