Waistband and Facings – SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

A waist finish is the way the raw top edge of a skirt or trousers is neatened. The two main choices are a waistband, which is a separate band of fabric that stands above the garment and hugs the waist, and a facing, which is hidden inside the garment. Both need interfacing to keep their shape.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• state the difference between a waistband and a facing;
• describe four types of waistband and where each is used;
• list the steps for sewing a professional waistband;
• name three types of facing and explain under-stitching;
• identify common waistband faults and say how to correct them.

What are waistbands and facings?

When we finish a skirt or a pair of trousers, we have to decide how to handle the raw edge at the top. We cannot leave it frayed. We usually choose between a waistband and a facing.

What is a waistband?

A waistband is a separate band of fabric that stands up above the garment. It hugs the waist and is usually where we put the button or hook.

What is a facing?

A facing is hidden inside. It follows the shape of the waist but stays tucked away. Use a facing when you want a “clean” look without a visible band, for example on a high-fashion pencil skirt.

Why is interfacing important?

Whether you use a waistband or a facing, you must use interfacing (stiffening). Without it, the waist will fold, wrinkle and look “saggy” after just one hour of wear.

What are the types of waistbands?

Not all waists are the same. Depending on the style of the clothes, we choose different bands.

1. Straight waistband: This is a simple rectangle. It is the most common type for school uniforms and basic trousers.
2. Contoured (curved) waistband: This is cut in a curve to follow the shape of the hips. It suits “low-rise” jeans or skirts because it does not gap at the back.
3. Elasticated waistband: Instead of a stiff band, we make a “tunnel” (casing) and pull elastic through it. It is good for children’s wear and sportswear because it is very comfortable.
4. Two-piece waistband: This is used in high-end men’s tailoring. It has a seam at the back so the tailor can easily tighten or loosen the trousers if the person gains weight.

How do you sew a professional waistband?

To get a “boutique” finish, follow these steps carefully:

1. Apply the interfacing. Iron your stay-lap or collar-stiffener onto the wrong side of the fabric. Make sure it is slightly narrower than the fabric so you can fold the edges easily.
2. Sew the under-side first. Pin the right side of the waistband to the wrong side of the skirt. Sew across. This allows you to fold the band over to the front and top-stitch it. The front stitching is what people see, so it needs to be neat and even.
3. Leave an extension. Always leave about 3 cm to 4 cm of extra fabric on one side. This is called the “overlap”. It is where you will sew your buttonhole or trouser hook.
4. Press the finished band. Never skip the iron. Steam the waistband flat so it sits crisp against the body.

What are facings?

A facing is used when you want the top of the skirt or trousers to look completely smooth, with no band showing.

Types of facings

• Shaped facing: Cut exactly like the top of the skirt.
• Extended facing: The fabric of the skirt itself is folded over to create the finish.
• Bias facing: A narrow strip of bias tape is used to finish the edge.

What is under-stitching?

Once you sew the facing to the garment, push the seam allowance toward the facing and sew a line on the facing. This keeps the facing from popping out and showing on the outside of the garment.

What are common waistband problems and how do you fix them?

In the sewing lab, watch out for these common waistline problems:

1. The “gaping” back: If the back of the waistband stands away from the person’s spine, the waistband was too straight. Next time, try a contoured waistband.
2. The “roll-over”: If the waistband folds in half while the person is sitting, the interfacing was too soft. For waistbands, always use a firm, “non-roll” stiffener.
3. Bulky corners: When you turn the corners of your waistband, they may look “fat” or round. Trim the extra fabric inside the corner before turning it right-side out. Use a point turner or a dull pencil to push the corner out sharply.

Evaluation

1. State two differences between a waistband and a facing.
2. Name the four types of waistband and give one use of each.
3. Why do we sew the right side of the waistband to the wrong side of the skirt first?
4. What is under-stitching, and what problem does it prevent?
5. A waistband folds in half when the wearer sits down. What is the likely cause?

Assignment

Measure your own waist. Then draft a straight waistband on brown paper. Remember to add 3 cm for the “overlap” and 1.5 cm for the “seam allowance” on all sides.