Waistband and Facings SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

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Introduction to Waist Finishes

When we finish a skirt or a pair of trousers, we have to decide how to handle the raw edge at the top. We can’t just leave it frayed! We usually choose between a Waistband or a Facing.

What is a Waistband? It is a separate band of fabric that stands up above the garment. It hugs the waist and is usually where we put the button or hook.

What is a Facing? A facing is hidden inside. It mimics the shape of the waist but stays tucked away. Use a facing when you want a “clean” look without a visible band (like on a high-fashion pencil skirt).

The Importance of “Body”: Whether you use a waistband or a facing, you must use interfacing (stiffening). Without it, the waist will fold, wrinkle, and look “saggy” after just one hour of wearing it.

Types of Waistbands

Not all waists are the same! Depending on the style of the clothes, we choose different bands.

1. Straight Waistband: This is a simple rectangle. It is the most common type for school uniforms and basic trousers.
2. Contoured (Curved) Waistband: This is cut in a curve to follow the shape of the hips. It is perfect for “low-rise” jeans or skirts because it doesn’t gap at the back.
3. Elasticated Waistband: Instead of a stiff band, we use a “tunnel” (casing) and pull elastic through it. This is great for children’s wear and sportswear because it’s very comfortable.
4. Two-Piece Waistband: Used in high-end men’s tailoring. It has a seam at the back so the tailor can easily tighten or loosen the trousers if the person gains weight.

How to Sew a Professional Waistband

To get that “boutique” finish, follow these steps carefully:

1. Interfacing is Key: Iron your stay-lap or collar-stiffener onto the wrong side of the fabric. Make sure it is slightly narrower than the fabric so you can fold the edges easily.
2. The “Under-side” First: Pin the right side of the waistband to the wrong side of the skirt. Sew across.

• Why? This allows you to fold the band over to the front and “Top-stitch” it. The front stitch is what people see, so it needs to be perfect!

3. The Extension: Always leave about 3cm to 4cm of extra fabric on one side. This is called the “overlap.” This is where you will sew your buttonhole or trouser hook.
4. The Final Press: Never skip the iron! Steam the waistband flat so it sits crisp against the body.

All About Facings

A Facing is used when you want the top of the skirt or trousers to look completely smooth, with no band showing.

Types of Facings:

• Shaped Facing: Cut exactly like the top of the skirt.
• Extended Facing: The fabric of the skirt itself is folded over to create the finish.
• Bias Facing: Using a narrow strip of bias tape to finish the edge.

The “Under-stitching” Trick: Once you sew the facing to the garment, push the seam allowance toward the facing and sew a line on the facing. This is a “pro” secret that keeps the facing from popping out and showing on the outside of your dress.

Practical Applications & Troubleshooting

In the sewing lab, watch out for these common “waistline headaches”:

1. The “Gaping” Back: If the back of the waistband stands away from the person’s spine, the waistband was too straight. Next time, try a Contoured Waistband.
2. The “Roll-over”: If the waistband folds in half while the person is sitting, your interfacing was too soft. For waistbands, always use a firm, “non-roll” stiffener.
3. Bulky Corners: When you turn the corners of your waistband, they might look “fat” or round. Trim the extra fabric inside the corner before turning it right-side out. Use a “Point Turner” or a dull pencil to push the corner out sharply.

Class Assignment: Measure your own waist. Now, draft a straight waistband on brown paper. Remember to add 3cm for the “overlap” and 1.5cm for the “seam allowance” on all sides!