Pockets SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

Introduction to Pockets

A Pocket is a small bag or envelope of fabric sewn into or onto a garment. Pockets are both functional (useful) and decorative (beautiful).

The Three Main Rules of Pockets:

1. Placement: A pocket that is too high or too low looks awkward. It must be at “hand level.”
2. Reinforcement: Pockets carry weight. You must reinforce the top corners so they don’t tear the garment.
3. Symmetry: If a jacket has two pockets, they must be at the exact same height. Even a 1cm difference will be noticed!

The Three Basic Types We Will Study:

• Patch Pockets: Sewn on the outside.
• In-seam (Side) Pockets: Hidden in the side seam.
• Welt Pockets: Cut into the fabric (very advanced).

The Patch Pocket

The Patch Pocket is the easiest to sew because it is “patched” onto the surface of the fabric. You see these on the front of shirts, the back of jeans, and on aprons.

How to Construct a Patch Pocket:

1. Cut the Shape: Usually a square or a shield shape. Add a 2cm “hem” at the top and 1cm “seam allowance” on the sides and bottom.
2. Finish the Top: Fold the top edge twice and sew it across. This is the “mouth” of the pocket.
3. Press the Edges: Use an iron to fold the side and bottom edges toward the wrong side. This makes it easy to sew it down straight.
4. Pin and Sew: Place the pocket on the garment. Sew very close to the edge.

Tailor’s Tip: At the top corners, sew a small “triangle” or “box” shape. This prevents the pocket from ripping away when you put your hand inside.

The Side (In-Seam) Pocket

The Side Pocket is the “secret” pocket. It stays hidden inside the side seam of a skirt, a gown, or trousers. It only shows when you put your hand in.

Steps for Construction:

1. Cut the “Bag”: You need four pieces of fabric shaped like a teardrop or a hand.
2. Attach to the Seams: Sew one pocket piece to the front panel and one to the back panel at the side seam.
3. Under-stitching: Just like with necklines, sew the seam allowance toward the pocket bag. This stops the pocket from “peeking” out of the side of your dress.
4. Close the Side: Sew down the side seam, go around the pocket bag, and then continue down the rest of the side seam.

The Welt Pocket (Professional Tailoring)

The Welt Pocket is the “king” of pockets. It is the type you see on the back of men’s trousers or on the chest of a suit jacket. Instead of being sewn on the fabric, you cut a hole into the fabric.

Key Components:

• The Welt: The small strip of fabric that “borders” the opening.
• The Pocket Bag: The hidden pouch inside.

Why is it hard? Because once you cut the hole in your main fabric, there is no going back! You must be very precise with your measurements.

Construction Step: You must use interfacing on the area where you will cut. This prevents the fabric from fraying or weakening at the corners.

Troubleshooting & Quality Control

In the lab, your teacher will look for these things when grading your pockets:

1. “Dog-Ears” This happens when the corners of a patch pocket aren’t tucked in neatly. Use a pin or a needle to tuck the raw edges under before you sew the corner.
2. Gaping Pockets If your side pocket hangs open and looks messy, you didn’t stay-stitch the opening. The weight of the pocket bag is pulling the side seam out of shape.
3. Uneven Pockets Before sewing, always put the garment on a flat table. Measure from the waistline down to the pocket on both the left and right sides. If they aren’t the same, unpick it and move it!

Class Practical: Take two pieces of scrap fabric. Try to sew a simple square patch pocket. Focus on making the corners sharp and the top hem perfectly straight.