Fastenings and Openings I – SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

An opening is a gap in a garment that allows it to be put on or taken off easily, and a fastening is the device used to close that gap. Common fastenings include zippers and buttons with buttonholes. A good fastening is strong, and it is either hidden or used as a decoration, depending on the design.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• define an opening and a fastening;
• state the qualities of a good fastening and the common placements of openings;
• describe the lapped, invisible and open-ended zippers;
• distinguish flat buttons from shank buttons and sew a button with a thread shank;
• name the types of buttonholes and mark buttonhole positions correctly;
• identify and correct common faults with zippers and buttonholes.

Why do we need openings?

An opening is a gap in a garment that allows it to be put on or taken off easily. Fabric (unless it is stretchy) does not grow or shrink as we pull it over our heads, so we need these gaps.

A fastening is the device used to close that gap.

Qualities of a good fastening

1. Strength: It should not pop open when the wearer breathes or sits down.
2. Discretion: Sometimes we want the fastening to be “invisible” (like on a dinner gown).
3. Decoration: Sometimes we want the fastening to be the “star” of the show (like big, beautiful gold buttons on a blazer).

Common placements

• Centre Back (CB): Standard for gowns and skirts.
• Centre Front (CF): Standard for shirts and jackets.
• Side Seam: Often used for a “clean” look on trousers or skirts.

What are zippers (slide fasteners)?

Zippers are the fastest way to close a garment. They come in different lengths, colours and materials (plastic or metal).

Types of zippers

• Lapped zipper: One side of the fabric “laps” over the zipper teeth so they are hidden. Common in trousers.
• Invisible (concealed) zipper: When sewn correctly, you cannot see the teeth at all, only the seam line. This is the “gold standard” for female corporate wear.
• Open-ended zipper: These come apart completely at the bottom. You find these on jackets and hoodies.

Tailor’s tip: Always “stay-stitch” the opening before sewing the zipper. If the fabric stretches while you are sewing the zip, the garment will “wave” or “bulge” at the back.

What are the types of buttons?

Buttons are one of the oldest fastenings, and they never go out of style. They are usually made of plastic, wood, metal, or even fabric-covered bone.

Two main types of buttons

1. Flat buttons: These have 2 or 4 holes in the middle. They lie flat against the fabric.
2. Shank buttons: These have a small “loop” or “leg” on the back. They sit slightly above the fabric, which makes them suitable for thick fabrics like wool or heavy denim.

How to sew a button for strength

• Use a double thread.
• Create a “thread shank” (a small neck of thread) between the button and the fabric. This gives the buttonhole space to sit underneath the button without pulling the fabric tight.

How do you make a good buttonhole?

The buttonhole is the “house” for the button. It must be the right size. If it is too small, the button will not fit. If it is too big, the garment will keep popping open.

Types of buttonholes

• Machine-made: Most modern sewing machines have a “4-step” or “1-step” buttonhole setting.
• Hand-worked: Sewn using a “buttonhole stitch”. This is seen in high-end bespoke tailoring.
• Bound buttonhole: Made using small strips of fabric. These are very advanced and used mostly on expensive coats.

The “where to cut” rule

Always mark your buttonhole positions with a ruler. For a vertical row (like on a shirt), the top buttonhole should be about 1.5 cm down from the neck edge.

Practical guide and troubleshooting

When you are working on your practicals in the lab, watch out for these common “traps”:

1. The zipper “bump”: If your zipper has a little “tail” or bump at the bottom, it means you did not back-stitch correctly at the end of the seam. Always transition smoothly from the zipper stitches into the rest of the seam.
2. Misaligned buttons: Before you cut your buttonholes, pin the garment closed. Mark exactly where the button sits through the hole. If your buttons and holes do not line up, the shirt will look crooked and “pull” to one side.
3. Fraying buttonholes: If you cut your buttonhole and the fabric starts “weaving” out, you forgot to use interfacing. Always put a small strip of “stiffening” inside the placket before making buttonholes.

Class activity

Take a 10 cm x 10 cm scrap of fabric. Practise sewing a manual buttonhole using a needle and thread. Keep your stitches even and close together.

Evaluation

1. Define an opening and a fastening.
2. State the three qualities of a good fastening.
3. Name the three types of zippers mentioned in this lesson and say where each is used.
4. What is the difference between a flat button and a shank button?
5. Why should you use interfacing before making buttonholes?

Assignment

1. Explain how to sew a button for strength, and say why a thread shank is needed.
2. List the three types of buttonholes and describe each in one sentence.