Fastenings and Openings I SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

Why Do We Need Openings?

An Opening is a gap in a garment that allows it to be put on or taken off easily. Since fabric (unless it is stretchy) doesn’t grow or shrink as we pull it over our heads, we need these gaps.

A Fastening is the device used to close that gap.

Qualities of a Good Fastening:

1. Strength: It shouldn’t pop open when the wearer breathes or sits down.
2. Discretion: Sometimes we want the fastening to be “invisible” (like on a dinner gown).
3. Decoration: Sometimes we want the fastening to be the “star” of the show (like big, beautiful gold buttons on a blazer).

Common Placements:

• Center Back (CB): Standard for gowns and skirts.
• Center Front (CF): Standard for shirts and jackets.
• Side Seam: Often used for a “clean” look on trousers or skirts.

All About Zippers (Slide Fasteners)

Zippers are the fastest way to close a garment. They come in different lengths, colors, and materials (plastic or metal).

Types of Zippers:

• Lapped Zipper: One side of the fabric “laps” over the zipper teeth so they are hidden. Common in trousers.
• Invisible (Concealed) Zipper: When sewn correctly, you cannot see the teeth at all—only the seam line. This is the “gold standard” for female corporate wear.
• Open-ended Zipper: These come apart completely at the bottom. You find these on jackets and hoodies.

Tailor’s Tip: Always “stay-stitch” the opening before sewing the zipper. If the fabric stretches while you are sewing the zip, the garment will “wave” or “bulge” at the back.

Buttons and Their “Personalities”

Buttons are one of the oldest fastenings, but they never go out of style. They are usually made of plastic, wood, metal, or even fabric-covered bone.

Two Main Types of Buttons:

1. Flat Buttons: These have 2 or 4 holes in the middle. They lay flat against the fabric.
2. Shank Buttons: These have a small “loop” or “leg” on the back. They sit slightly above the fabric, making them perfect for thick fabrics like wool or heavy denim.

How to Sew a Button for Strength:

• Use a double thread.
• Create a “thread shank” (a small neck of thread) between the button and the fabric. This gives the buttonhole space to sit underneath the button without pulling the fabric tight.

Mastering the Buttonhole

The buttonhole is the “house” for the button. It must be the right size—if it’s too small, the button won’t fit; if it’s too big, the garment will keep popping open.

Types of Buttonholes:

• Machine-made: Most modern sewing machines have a “4-step” or “1-step” buttonhole setting.
• Hand-worked: Sewn using a “Buttonhole Stitch.” This is seen in high-end bespoke tailoring.
• Bound Buttonhole: Made using small strips of fabric. These are very advanced and used mostly on expensive coats.

The “Where to Cut” Rule: Always mark your buttonhole positions with a ruler. For a vertical row (like on a shirt), the top buttonhole should be about 1.5cm down from the neck edge.

Practical Guide & Troubleshooting

When you are working on your practicals in the lab, watch out for these common “traps”:

1. The Zipper “Bump” If your zipper has a little “tail” or bump at the bottom, it means you didn’t back-stitch correctly at the end of the seam. Always transition smoothly from the zipper stitches into the rest of the seam.
2. Misaligned Buttons Before you cut your buttonholes, pin the garment closed. Mark exactly where the button sits through the hole. If your buttons and holes don’t line up, the shirt will look crooked and “pull” to one side.
3. Fraying Buttonholes If you cut your buttonhole and the fabric starts “weaving” out, you forgot to use interfacing. Always put a small strip of “stiffening” inside the placket before making buttonholes.

Class Activity: Take a 10cm x 10cm scrap of fabric. Practice sewing a manual buttonhole using a needle and thread. Focus on keeping your stitches even and close together!