Pressing Techniques – SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

Pressing is the method used while sewing: you lift the iron, place it on one spot, hold it for a few seconds and lift it again, so that seams stay flat without stretching. It differs from ironing, which slides the iron to remove wrinkles. Tools such as the pressing cloth, tailor’s ham, seam roll and clapper help press fabric safely.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• state the difference between ironing and pressing;
• explain why a pressing cloth is used;
• describe the tailor’s ham, seam roll and clapper and say what each is used for;
• choose the correct heat setting for common fabric types;
• list safety rules for using an iron in the workshop.

What is the difference between ironing and pressing?

Many people use these words to mean the same thing, but in a sewing workshop they are different actions.

• Ironing: This is what you do to your school uniform. You slide the iron back and forth to remove wrinkles.
• Pressing: This is what we do while sewing. You lift the iron, place it down on a specific spot, hold it for a few seconds, and lift it up again.

Sliding the iron back and forth on a fresh seam can stretch the fabric out of shape. Pressing keeps the fabric exactly where it should be while making the seam flat and crisp.

The golden rule: Never sew across a seam that has not been pressed.

What tools are used for pressing?

The pressing cloth

When black trousers are pressed with the iron touching the fabric directly, they can start to look shiny. This happens when the heat is too direct.

• What it is: A pressing cloth is a simple piece of clean, white cotton fabric (like an old handkerchief or a piece of calico).
• How to use it: Place it on top of your garment before you put the iron down.
• Why use it?
  1. It prevents shine on dark fabrics.
  2. It protects delicate fabrics (like silk) from heat damage.
  3. If you are using steam, it helps spread the moisture evenly.

Teacher’s practical tip: If you do not have a professional pressing cloth, a piece of plain white paper can work in an emergency for small areas. A real cotton cloth is always better.

The tailor’s ham (pressing curves)

Humans are not flat boards. We have shoulders, busts and hips. If you press a curved seam (like a sleeve) on a flat ironing board, you will create unwanted creases.

• What it is: A firm, ham-shaped cushion stuffed tightly with sawdust or scraps. One side is usually cotton (for high heat) and the other is wool (for lower heat).
• How to use it: Slide the ham inside the curved part of the garment (like the shoulder) and press the iron over the curve.
• The result: The garment keeps its rounded shape.

Special tools: the seam roll and the clapper

Sometimes the ham is too big. In that case, use these tools:

1. Seam roll: It looks like a long, thin sausage. Put it inside a sleeve or a narrow trouser leg so you can press the seam open without the iron touching the other side of the sleeve.
2. The clapper: A heavy block of smooth wood. After you steam a seam, press the clapper down on it while it is still hot. The wood holds the heat and steam in the fabric, giving a flat, sharp edge.

How do you set the heat and stay safe?

An iron is a dangerous tool if you do not respect it. Always check the fibre content of your fabric before you set the temperature.

• Low heat: For synthetics (polyester, nylon). They melt easily.
• Medium heat: For silk and wool.
• High heat: For cotton and linen. These need a lot of heat and steam to get the wrinkles out.

Workshop safety tips

• Always stand the iron on its heel when not in use.
• Keep the water tank of your steam iron clean so it does not “spit” brown water on white fabric.
• Always unplug at the wall when you are done for the day.

Evaluation

1. State two differences between ironing and pressing.
2. Give three reasons for using a pressing cloth.
3. What is a tailor’s ham used for, and what are its two sides made of?
4. When would you use a seam roll instead of a tailor’s ham?
5. Which heat setting is suitable for polyester, silk and cotton?

Assignment

In your notebook, list the four pressing tools taught in this lesson. Write one or two sentences on what each one is used for. Then write three workshop safety tips for using an iron.