Basic Sewing II: What Makes a Stitch Permanent? – SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

A permanent stitch is a stitch that is not meant to be removed. It forms the seams of a skirt, the hem of trousers and the attachment of buttons, so it must be strong, neat and secure. The hand stitches are the backstitch, the running stitch and the hemming stitch, and each is fastened off at the end.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• state what a permanent stitch is and the three qualities it must have;
• describe the backstitch, the running stitch and the hemming stitch;
• say when each of these stitches should be used;
• fasten off a line of stitching correctly at the beginning and at the end.

What makes a stitch permanent?

Unlike tacking or basting, permanent stitches are not meant to be removed. They are the stitches that make the seams of your skirt, the hem of your trousers, and the attachment of your buttons.

Because these stitches stay forever, they must be:

1. Strong: They should not snap when you sit down or move.
2. Neat: Since people will see them (especially on the inside or at the hem), they must be even.
3. Secure: Always start and end with a backstitch or a knot so the thread does not pull out.

Which hand stitches are permanent?

What is the backstitch?

If you do not have a sewing machine, the backstitch is your best friend. It is the strongest stitch you can make by hand because each stitch “overlaps” the one before it.

• How it looks: On the top, it looks exactly like a straight line from a sewing machine. On the back, the stitches look long and overlap each other.
• When to use it: Use it for seams that need to be very strong, like the crotch of trousers or attaching a zipper.
• How to do it: Bring the needle up through the fabric, go backward a small distance, and then come up a stitch-length ahead of where you started.

What is the running stitch?

The running stitch is the most basic stitch in sewing. It is exactly like “even tacking”, but the stitches are much smaller and closer together.

• Characteristics: It is fast to sew but not as strong as the backstitch.
• When to use it:
  • For making “gathers” (like the ruffles on a puff sleeve).
  • For mending small tears.
  • For decorative “top-stitching” on the outside of a garment.
• Tip: To make it strong, keep your stitches about 2 mm long and very close together.

What is the hemming stitch?

When you fold the bottom of a skirt or shirt, that fold is called a hem. We use the hemming stitch to hold that fold in place.

• Goal: A good hemming stitch should be almost invisible on the “right side” (the outside) of the cloth.
• How it is done: Catch only one or two threads of the main fabric and then pass the needle through the edge of the folded hem.
• When to use it: On the bottom of skirts, dresses and sleeves.
• The secret: If you use a thread that matches your fabric colour perfectly, the stitches will “disappear”.

How do you finish and fasten off a stitch?

Even the best stitches will fall apart if you do not “lock” them at the end. In the workshop, we call this fastening off.

1. Beginning: Always start with a small, secure knot. Or, better still, make two tiny stitches in the same place (one on top of the other) before you start moving forward.
2. Ending: When you reach the end of your seam, do not just cut the thread. Make two or three tiny backstitches in the same spot. Then pass your needle through the last loop of thread to create a knot and pull it tight.
3. Trimming: Use your embroidery scissors to cut the thread close to the fabric, but be careful not to cut the fabric itself.

Teacher’s tip: When practising these stitches, use a piece of “calico” or plain cotton. It is easier to see your progress on plain fabric than on a busy Ankara print.

Evaluation

1. What is a permanent stitch?
2. State the three qualities a permanent stitch must have.
3. Why is the backstitch the strongest hand stitch?
4. Give two uses of the running stitch.
5. Describe how to fasten off at the end of a seam.

Assignment

In your notebook, write one or two sentences on when to use each of the backstitch, the running stitch and the hemming stitch. Then list the steps for fastening off at the beginning and at the end of a seam.