Linings and Interlining – SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

Lining is the smooth, lightweight fabric on the inside of a garment. It touches the skin and hides raw seams. Interlining is an extra layer between the main fabric and the lining. It adds warmth or changes how the fabric hangs. Together, these inner fabrics make a garment neater, more comfortable and longer lasting.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• state the difference between lining and interlining;
• give four reasons for using a lining;
• list common uses of interlining and the fabrics used for them;
• describe the bagging out and hand-felled methods of applying a lining;
• apply the ease rule, the hem rule and the grainline rule when cutting a lining.

What are lining and interlining?

In our previous lessons, we focused on the “fashion fabric” (the main fabric people see). If you look inside a high-quality suit or a wedding gown, you will see other layers. These are lining and interlining.

What is the difference between them?

• Lining: This is the smooth fabric on the very inside that touches your skin. It hides the “ugly” raw seams and makes the dress easy to slide on.
• Interlining: This is a “sandwich” layer. It sits between the main fabric and the lining. Its job is to add warmth or change how the fabric hangs.

Why do we need them? Without these layers, a skirt might cling to your legs, or a coat might feel too thin in cold weather. A professional tailor always thinks about the “inside” as much as the “outside.”

Why do we use lining?

Lining is usually a slippery, lightweight fabric such as satin, taffeta or pongee. The reasons for using it are:

1. Neatness: It hides all the darts, shoulder pads and raw edges. The inside of the garment looks as clean as the outside.
2. Comfort: It prevents “itchy” fabrics (like wool or lace) from irritating the skin.
3. Protection: It protects the main fabric from body oils and sweat, making the outfit last longer.
4. Structure: It helps a skirt or gown keep its shape so it does not “bag out” at the seat when you sit down.

Tailor’s tip: Always choose a lining that is a similar colour to your main fabric, or a slightly darker shade. If you use a bright white lining under a dark blue fabric, it might “grin” through the seams.

What is interlining used for?

Interlining gives a garment body. Its common uses are:

• Warmth: In colder climates, we use a layer of flannel or fleece inside a jacket to make it cosy.
• Volume: For big “ballroom” gowns or puffed sleeves, we use netting or organza as an interlining to give the dress a “pop” and keep it standing out.
• Changing the fabric: If your main fabric is too “limp” or soft for the style you want, you can sew it together with a stiffer interlining to give it “bones.”

How do you apply a lining?

There are two main ways to fix a lining into a garment:

1. The “bagging out” method: You sew the lining and the dress together at the neck and armholes (right sides together), then pull the dress through the shoulder to turn it out. This hides all the seams completely.
2. The “hand-felled” method: The lining is sewn separately and then attached to the garment at the neck and zipper by hand, using a slip stitch. This is what we call “bespoke” tailoring. It allows the lining to move freely so the dress does not feel tight.

The “ease” rule: Never cut your lining the exact same size as your dress. Always add about 1cm to 2cm of “ease” (extra room) in the width. If the lining is too tight, it will pull on the main fabric and cause ugly wrinkles on the outside.

Practical guide and troubleshooting

When you are working in the lab today, keep these “golden rules” in mind:

1. The “peek-a-boo” problem: One of the biggest mistakes is when the lining shows at the hem of a skirt.
   • The fix: Always cut your lining 2cm shorter than your main fabric. This ensures it stays hidden even when the person is walking.
2. Ironing dangers: Lining fabrics are often very sensitive to heat. If your iron is too hot, you will melt the lining. Always test your iron on a small scrap first.
3. Grainline matching: You must cut your lining on the same grainline as your main fabric. If the dress is cut on the “bias” (diagonal) but the lining is cut “straight,” the dress will twist and look crooked on the body.

Evaluation

1. State the difference between lining and interlining.
2. Give four reasons for using a lining in a garment.
3. Name two fabrics used as interlining to give a gown volume.
4. Describe the hand-felled method of applying a lining.
5. Why should a lining be cut 2cm shorter than the main fabric, and why should ease of 1cm to 2cm be added to its width?

Assignment

Take a piece of lace fabric and a piece of plain cotton. Try to “interline” them by sewing them together at the edges. Observe how the lace becomes stronger and less see-through, and write two sentences on what you noticed.