Linings and Interlining SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

Introduction to Inner Fabrics

In our previous lessons, we focused on the “fashion fabric” (the main fabric people see). But if you look inside a high-quality suit or a wedding gown, you will see other layers. These are Lining and Interlining.

What is the difference?

• Lining: This is the smooth fabric on the very inside that touches your skin. It hides the “ugly” raw seams and makes the dress easy to slide on.
• Interlining: This is a “sandwich” layer. it sits between the main fabric and the lining. Its job is to add warmth or change how the fabric hangs.

The “Why”: Without these, a skirt might cling to your legs, or a coat might feel too thin in cold weather. A professional tailor always thinks about the “inside” as much as the “outside.”

All About Lining (The Smooth Finish)

Lining is usually a slippery, lightweight fabric like Satin, Taffeta, or Pongee.

Why do we use Lining?

1. Neatness: It hides all the darts, shoulder pads, and raw edges. The inside of the garment looks as clean as the outside.
2. Comfort: It prevents “itchy” fabrics (like wool or lace) from irritating the skin.
3. Protection: It protects the main fabric from body oils and sweat, making the outfit last longer.
4. Structure: It helps a skirt or gown keep its shape so it doesn’t “bag out” at the seat when you sit down.

Tailor’s Tip: Always choose a lining that is a similar color to your main fabric, or a slightly darker shade. If you use a bright white lining under a dark blue fabric, it might “grin” through the seams!

Understanding Interlining (The “Body” Builder)

Common Uses for Interlining:

• Warmth: In colder climates, we use a layer of “flannel” or “fleece” inside a jacket to make it cozy.
• Volume: For those big “ballroom” gowns or puffed sleeves, we use Netting or Organza as an interlining to give the dress a “pop” and keep it standing out.
• Changing the Fabric: If your main fabric is too “limp” or soft for the style you want, you can sew it together with a stiffer interlining to give it “bones.”

How to Apply Lining (The “Professional” Way)

There are two main ways to fix a lining into a garment:

1. The “Bagging Out” Method: You sew the lining and the dress together at the neck and armholes (right sides together), then pull the dress through the shoulder to turn it out. This hides all the seams completely.
2. The “Hand-Felled” Method: The lining is sewn separately and then attached to the garment at the neck and zipper using a Slip Stitch by hand. This is what we call “Bespoke” tailoring—it allows the lining to move freely so the dress doesn’t feel tight.

The “Ease” Rule: Never cut your lining the exact same size as your dress. Always add about 1cm to 2cm of “ease” (extra room) in the width. If the lining is too tight, it will pull on the main fabric and cause ugly wrinkles on the outside.

Practical Guide & Troubleshooting

When you are working in the lab today, keep these “Golden Rules” in mind:

1. The “Peek-a-Boo” Problem: One of the biggest mistakes is when the lining shows at the hem of a skirt.

• The Fix: Always cut your lining 2cm shorter than your main fabric. This ensures it stays hidden even when the person is walking.

2. Ironing Dangers: Lining fabrics are often very sensitive to heat. If your iron is too hot, you will melt the lining! Always test your iron on a small scrap first.
3. Grainline Matching: You must cut your lining on the same grainline as your main fabric. If the dress is cut on the “bias” (diagonal) but the lining is cut “straight,” the dress will twist and look crooked on the body.

Summary Task: Take a piece of lace fabric and a piece of plain cotton. Try to “Interline” them by sewing them together at the edges. See how the lace becomes stronger and less see-through? That is the power of inner fabrics!