Fastenings and Openings II – SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

What are hooks, snaps and Velcro?

Hooks and eyes, snap fasteners (press studs) and Velcro are small fastenings that keep a garment closed without being noticed. They are used when a zipper or big button is not the right choice, for example when the fabric is too thin or the fastening must stay hidden. Each one is attached in a different way.

In our last lesson, we talked about zippers and buttons. Today, we are looking at hooks, snaps and Velcro.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• name the three types of hooks and eyes and say where each is used;
• sew a hook and eye so that the stitches do not show on the right side of the fabric;
• name the two parts of a snap fastener and attach a snap in the correct position;
• state when Velcro should and should not be used, and how to sew and care for it;
• explain why interfacing and careful alignment matter when attaching fastenings.

Where are small fastenings used?

These small fastenings are the “silent workers” in tailoring. They keep the garment closed without anyone noticing.

• The waistband: to take the pressure off a zipper.
• Baby clothes: where buttons can be hard for a parent to fasten.
• Corporate wear: to keep a blouse from “gaping” open between buttonholes.
• Sportswear: for quick removal or adjustment.

What are hooks and eyes?

The hook and eye is a classic fastening and acts as the “support” system of a garment. It has two parts: a small metal hook and a loop (the eye).

Types of hooks and eyes

1. Small metal hooks: used at the top of a dress zipper or on the neck of a blouse. They are thin and discreet.
2. Trouser hooks (heavy duty): flat, wide metal pieces. They are much stronger and are used on the waistbands of trousers and skirts to handle the pressure when we sit down.
3. Thread loops: instead of a metal “eye”, a tailor sews a small loop of thread. This is very popular in high-end couture because it is almost invisible.

How to sew hooks and eyes properly

• Always use a double thread for strength.
• Sew through the small “circular feet” of the hook. Be careful not to let your stitches show on the “right side” (the outside) of the fabric.

What are snap fasteners (press studs)?

Snaps are two-part metal or plastic fasteners that “click” together. They are suitable for children’s wear and light jackets.

Parts of a snap

• The ball (male part): the piece with the little “bump”.
• The socket (female part): the piece with the hole that the bump fits into.

Steps for attaching a snap

1. The overlap: the ball usually goes on the underside of the top layer, while the socket goes on the top side of the bottom layer.
2. Positioning: pin the garment closed and push a pin through the centre of the first snap to mark exactly where the second one should go. If they are even 2mm off, the fabric will wrinkle.
3. The “hidden” stitch: use a backstitch through the four holes of the snap. Try to catch only a few threads of the fabric so the stitches stay hidden.

What is Velcro (touch-and-close fastener)?

Velcro consists of two nylon strips: one with tiny hooks (the rough side) and one with tiny loops (the soft side).

When to use Velcro

• It is suitable for sportswear, bags and shoes.
• It suits people with physical challenges (like arthritis) who find buttons difficult.

Rules for using Velcro

• Do not use it on delicate silk or lace: the rough side of the Velcro will catch the fibres and ruin the fabric.
• Sewing: always sew around all four edges of the Velcro strip. Use a top-stitch, because the strip must be strong enough to survive being pulled apart repeatedly.
• Keep it clean: Velcro picks up lint and hair easily. Always close the Velcro before putting the garment in a washing machine to keep it “sticky”.

Practical guide and tips for the lab

When you are practising these fastenings in the lab, remember these “tailor’s secrets”:

1. The “stress” test: before you finish a garment, give your hooks or snaps a firm tug. If the fabric pulls or distorts, you did not use interfacing. Always reinforce the area behind a fastening with a small piece of “stiffening”.
2. Sewing “blind”: for hooks and snaps, try to master the slip stitch. It lets you sew the fastening onto the facing or the lining without a single stitch showing on the outside of the dress. This helps your work look professional.
3. Alignment: a beautiful gown can look “cheap” if the top of the neck does not line up because the hook was sewn 3mm too high. Use a ruler to mark your spots.

Evaluation

1. Name the three types of hooks and eyes and state one use of each.
2. Which thread should you use when sewing a hook, and why?
3. Name the two parts of a snap fastener. Which part goes on the underside of the top layer?
4. Give two rules for using Velcro. On which fabrics should it not be used?
5. What can happen if you do not use interfacing behind a fastening?

Assignment

Take a scrap of fabric and sew one hook and eye at the top and one snap fastener at the bottom. Show your teacher how you hid your stitches on the outside of the fabric.