Fastenings and Openings II SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

Introduction to “Small” Fastenings

In our last lesson, we talked about zippers and buttons. Today, we are looking at Hooks, Snaps, and Velcro.

Sometimes, a zipper or a big button isn’t the right choice. Maybe the fabric is too thin, or maybe we want a fastening that stays completely hidden. These small fastenings are the “silent workers” in tailoring—they keep the garment closed without anyone noticing.

Where do we use these?

• The Waistband: To take the pressure off a zipper.
• Baby Clothes: Where buttons might be too hard for a parent to struggle with.
• Corporate Wear: To keep a blouse from “gaping” open between buttonholes.
• Sportswear: For quick removal or adjustment.

Hooks and Eyes (The “Support” System)

The Hook and Eye is a classic fastening. It consists of two parts: a small metal hook and a loop (the eye).

Types of Hooks and Eyes:

1. Small Metal Hooks: Used at the top of a dress zipper or on the neck of a blouse. They are thin and discreet.
2. Trouser Hooks (Heavy Duty): These are flat, wide metal pieces. They are much stronger and are used on the waistbands of trousers and skirts to handle the pressure when we sit down.
3. Thread Loops: Sometimes, instead of a metal “eye,” a tailor will sew a small loop of thread. This is very popular in high-end couture because it is almost invisible.

How to Sew Them Properly:

• Always use a double thread for strength.
• Sew through the small “circular feet” of the hook. Be careful not to let your stitches show on the “right side” (the outside) of the fabric!

Snap Fasteners (Press Studs)

Snaps are two-part metal or plastic fasteners that “click” together. They are perfect for children’s wear or light jackets.

The Anatomy of a Snap:

• The Ball (Male part): The piece with the little “bump.”
• The Socket (Female part): The piece with the hole that the bump fits into.

Steps for Attachment:

1. The Overlap: The “Ball” part usually goes on the underside of the top layer, while the “Socket” goes on the top side of the bottom layer.
2. Positioning: Pin the garment closed and push a pin through the center of the first snap to mark exactly where the second one should go. If they are even 2mm off, the fabric will wrinkle.
3. The “Hidden” Stitch: Use a “backstitch” through the four holes of the snap. Try to only catch a few threads of the fabric so the stitches stay hidden.

Velcro (Touch-and-Close Fasteners)

Velcro is a modern marvel. It consists of two nylon strips: one with tiny hooks (the rough side) and one with tiny loops (the soft side).

When to Use Velcro:

• It is great for sportswear, bags, and shoes.
• It is perfect for people with physical challenges (like arthritis) who find buttons difficult.

Rules for Using Velcro:

• Don’t use it on delicate silk or lace: The “rough” side of the Velcro will catch the fibers and ruin the fabric.
• Sewing: Always sew around all four edges of the Velcro strip. Use a “Top-stitch” because it needs to be very strong to survive being pulled apart repeatedly.
• Keep it Clean: Velcro picks up lint and hair easily. Always close the Velcro before putting the garment in a washing machine to keep it “sticky.”

Practical Guide & Pro Tips

When you are in the lab practicing these fastenings, remember these “Tailor’s Secrets”:

1. The “Stress” Test Before you finish a garment, give your hooks or snaps a firm tug. If the fabric pulls or distorts, you didn’t use interfacing. Always reinforce the area behind a fastening with a small piece of “stiffening.”
2. Sewing “Blind” For hooks and snaps, try to master the Slip Stitch. This allows you to sew the fastening onto the facing or the lining without a single stitch showing on the outside of the dress. This is what separates a professional tailor from a beginner.
3. Alignment is Everything A beautiful gown can look “cheap” if the top of the neck doesn’t line up perfectly because the hook was sewn 3mm too high. Use a ruler to mark your spots!

Summary Activity: Take a scrap of fabric and sew one Hook and Eye at the top and one Snap Fastener at the bottom. Show your teacher how you hid your stitches on the outside of the fabric.