Fashion Illustration II – SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Third Term)

Fashion illustration is the drawing of a fashion figure, called a croquis, wearing clothes. To make a drawing useful, show the figure in a balanced, moving pose, add body shape, draw how fabric drapes, mark technical details such as seams and darts for the tailor, and show texture with line and shading.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• draw a balanced, moving pose using the “S” curve and the balance line;
• add body shape to a 9-head croquis;
• draw stretch lines, drop lines and gathering to show how fabric drapes;
• draw seam lines, top-stitching, fastenings and darts;
• show heavy fabrics, light fabrics and patterns with line and shading.

How do you show movement in a fashion figure?

In our last lesson, we learned the “9-head” rule. Today, we are focusing on movement. A stiff, straight figure is boring. To show off a beautiful dress, the model needs to look like she is walking or posing.

The “S” curve

When a person stands naturally, they shift their weight to one leg. This makes the hips tilt.

• If the left hip goes up, the left shoulder must go down.
• This creates a gentle “S” shape in the spine.

The balance line

Pro tip: Always draw your “balance line” first (from the neck to the floor). As long as the “weight-bearing” foot touches that line, your model will look balanced and will not look as if she is falling over.

How do you add body shape to the croquis?

Once you have your 9-head “skeleton” in a nice pose, you need to add the body shape. We call this “fleshing out” the croquis.

Key body parts to watch

1. The shoulders: Do not make them perfectly straight. Give them a slight downward curve toward the arms.
2. The waist: This is the narrowest part. It sits at “Head 3” on our 9-head chart.
3. The legs: Fashion legs are long and elegant. Make sure the knees are slightly narrowed and the calves (the back of the lower leg) have a soft curve.
4. The joints: Draw small circles for elbows and knees. This helps you remember where the fabric will “wrinkle” later when we add clothes.

What is drape in garment detailing?

“Draping” is how fabric sits on a human body. Fabric is influenced by gravity. It does not just stick to the skin; it hangs from the shoulders or the waist.

Understanding folds

• Stretch lines: These are small “V” or “U” shaped lines that appear where the fabric is tight (like at the bust or the hips).
• Drop lines: These are long, vertical lines that show where the fabric is hanging loose (like on a flared skirt or a wide sleeve).
• Gathering: Show tiny “zig-zag” lines where fabric is pulled into a waistband or a cuff.

The “air gap”

When drawing clothes, leave a tiny space between the body line and the garment line. This shows that the person is wearing the clothes, and that the fabric has thickness.

What technical details should a fashion illustration show?

A fashion illustration is a set of instructions for the tailor as well as a picture. You must draw the technical details clearly.

What to include in your sketch

1. Seam lines: Draw thin lines to show where the fabric is joined (like the side seams or the “princess seam”).
2. Top-stitching: Use tiny “dash” lines ( – – – ) to show where decorative or functional stitching should be.
3. Fastenings: Draw small circles for buttons, a “ladder” shape for zippers, and little “ticks” for hooks and eyes.
4. Darts: Draw small “V” shapes to show where the fabric is tucked in for fit.

How do you show texture and shading?

You show the difference between a jean skirt and a silk skirt on paper through texture.

1. Heavy fabrics (denim, wool): Use darker, thicker lines. Add more “stress lines” around the pockets and the fly zipper.
2. Light fabrics (chiffon, silk): Use very thin, wavy lines. Draw “transparent” areas where you can slightly see the model’s leg through the fabric.
3. Pattern (Ankara, lace): You do not need to draw every single flower. Draw the pattern in one or two areas (like the shoulder or the hem) and leave the rest plain. This keeps the drawing clean and easy to read.

Evaluation

1. Explain how the hips and shoulders move when a model shifts her weight to one leg.
2. What is the balance line, and where should the weight-bearing foot touch it?
3. Name the three kinds of fold lines used to show drape and say where each one is used.
4. List four technical details a tailor needs to see in a fashion illustration and say how each is drawn.
5. How would you draw a denim skirt differently from a chiffon skirt?

Assignment

Draw a 9-head croquis in a “side-pose.” Dress her in a high-waisted skirt with a side pocket and a blouse with puff sleeves. Use dash lines (—) to show the top-stitching on the pocket.