Fashion Illustration II SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

Bringing the Figure to Life

In our last lesson, we learned the “9-head” rule. Today, we are focusing on Movement. A stiff, straight figure is boring. To show off a beautiful dress, the model needs to look like she is walking or posing.

The “S” Curve: When a person stands naturally, they shift their weight to one leg. This makes the hips tilt.

• If the left hip goes up, the left shoulder must go down.
• This creates a gentle “S” shape in the spine.

Pro Tip: Always draw your “Balance Line” first (from the neck to the floor). As long as the “weight-bearing” foot touches that line, your model will look balanced and won’t look like she is falling over!

Adding “Flesh” to the Frame

Once you have your 9-head “skeleton” in a nice pose, you need to add the body shape. We call this “fleshing out” the croquis.

Key Body Parts to Watch:

1. The Shoulders: Don’t make them perfectly straight. Give them a slight downward curve toward the arms.
2. The Waist: This is the narrowest part. It sits at “Head 3” on our 9-head chart.
3. The Legs: Fashion legs are long and elegant. Make sure the knees are slightly narrowed and the calves (the back of the lower leg) have a soft curve.
4. The Joints: Draw small circles for elbows and knees. This helps you remember where the fabric will “wrinkle” later when we add clothes.

Garment Detailing – The “Drape”

“Draping” is how fabric sits on a human body. Fabric is influenced by Gravity. It doesn’t just stick to the skin; it hangs from the shoulders or the waist.

Understanding Folds:

• Stretch Lines: These are small “V” or “U” shaped lines that happen where the fabric is tight (like at the bust or the hips).
• Drop Lines: These are long, vertical lines that show where the fabric is hanging loose (like on a flared skirt or a wide sleeve).
• Gathering: Show tiny “zig-zag” lines where fabric is pulled into a waistband or a cuff.

The “Air Gap” Secret: When drawing clothes, leave a tiny space between the body line and the garment line. This shows that the person is wearing the clothes, and the fabric has thickness.

Technical Detailing (The Tailor’s Language)

A fashion illustration isn’t just a pretty picture; it’s a set of instructions for the tailor. You must draw the Technical Details clearly.

What to include in your sketch:

1. Seam Lines: Draw thin lines to show where the fabric is joined (like the side seams or the “Princess Seam”).
2. Top-stitching: Use tiny “dash” lines ( – – – ) to show where decorative or functional stitching should be.
3. Fastenings: Draw small circles for buttons, a “ladder” shape for zippers, and little “ticks” for hooks and eyes.
4. Darts: Draw small “V” shapes to show where the fabric is tucked in for fit.

Texture and Shading

How do you tell the difference between a “Jean” skirt and a “Silk” skirt on paper? You use Texture.

1. Heavy Fabrics (Denim/Wool): Use darker, thicker lines. Add more “stress lines” around the pockets and the fly zipper.
2. Light Fabrics (Chiffon/Silk): Use very thin, wavy lines. Draw “transparent” areas where you can slightly see the model’s leg through the fabric.
3. Pattern (Ankara/Lace): You don’t need to draw every single flower! Just draw the pattern in one or two areas (like the shoulder or the hem) and leave the rest plain. This keeps the drawing clean and easy to read.

Class Assignment: Draw a 9-head croquis in a “side-pose.” Dress her in a high-waisted skirt with a Side Pocket and a blouse with Puff Sleeves. Use dash lines (—) to show the top-stitching on the pocket.