Advanced Garment Construction II – SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (First Term)

Men’s tailoring is the making of garments such as shirts and trousers that look crisp and professional. It depends on structure and fit. Men’s garments fasten left over right, have enough ease in the shoulders and thighs, and use interfacing in collars, cuffs and waistbands to keep a firm shape.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• State the key differences between men’s wear and women’s wear.
• Name the main parts of a men’s shirt and of men’s trousers.
• Follow the correct order of work to construct a shirt.
• Follow the correct order of work to construct a pair of trousers.
• Identify common trouser-making mistakes and say how to avoid them.

What is special about men’s tailoring?

Men’s clothing is all about structure and fit. Unlike women’s wear, which often uses drapes and soft curves, men’s garments (especially shirts and trousers) need to look crisp and professional.

Key differences in men’s wear

1. Fastenings: In men’s wear, shirts and trousers usually overlap from left over right.
2. Ease: Men need enough room in the shoulders and thighs to move comfortably without the fabric pulling.
3. Interfacing: We use “stiffening” or interfacing in the collars, cuffs and waistbands to give the garment a firm, expensive look.

What tools do you need?

• A sharp tailor’s chalk for marking.
• A “trimmer” or small scissors for neatening threads.
• A steam iron (essential, because a tailor’s best friend is the iron).

What are the parts of a men’s shirt?

Before we sew, we must understand the parts of a standard long-sleeve or short-sleeve shirt.

• The yoke: This is the piece of fabric that sits across the shoulders. It is often “doubled” (two layers) to provide strength where the shirt takes the most weight.
• The collar: It consists of the “collar leaf” (the part that folds) and the “collar stand” (the part that hugs the neck).
• The placket: The strip of fabric down the centre front where the buttons and buttonholes go.
• The cuffs: The finished ends of the sleeves.

Construction tip: Always sew the placket first. If the front of the shirt is not neat, the whole garment will look “local” or unfinished.

How do you construct a men’s shirt?

To get a professional finish, follow this order:

1. Prepare the small parts: Iron your stiffening onto the collar pieces and cuffs. Fold and press your pockets.
2. Attach the yoke: Use the “burrito method” (rolling the shirt inside the yoke) so that all the raw seams are hidden inside. This makes the inside of the shirt as neat as the outside.
3. The sleeves: Attach the sleeves to the armholes while the shirt is still “flat” (before sewing the side seams). This is much easier than sewing a tube into a hole.
4. Side seams: Use a top-stitched seam or a French seam for durability.
5. The collar: This is the hardest part. Take your time to match the centre of the collar to the centre of the shirt neck.

What are the parts of men’s trousers?

Trousers require more precision than shirts because they have to handle the “seat” (the area you sit on) and constant movement.

• The fly: The opening at the front (usually with a zip).
• The crotch curve: This is the “U” shape. If it is too short, the trousers will be uncomfortable. If it is too long, they will look baggy.
• The waistband: It must be reinforced so that it does not fold or wrinkle when a belt is worn.
• Pockets: Usually “side pockets” and one or two “welt pockets” at the back.

Growth tip: For growing boys, tailors often leave an “inlay” (extra fabric) at the centre back seam of the trousers so they can be widened later.

How do you construct men’s trousers?

The order of work

1. Darts: Sew the back darts first to give the trousers shape.
2. Pockets: Fix the side pockets and the back pockets before joining the legs.
3. The fly zip: This is the most technical part. Use a “fly shield” (a small piece of fabric behind the zip) to protect the skin from the zip teeth.
4. In-seams and side seams: Join the legs together.
5. The hem: For a high-quality finish, use a “blind stitch” (an invisible hand stitch) for the trouser hem instead of a machine stitch.

What common mistakes should you avoid?

• Uneven legs: Always measure from the crotch down to the ankle on both sides to make sure they are the same length.
• Tight seat: If the trousers “smile” (create whiskers) at the front crotch, they are too tight.
• Bubbling: This happens if you do not iron your seams open as you sew. Iron every single seam before moving to the next step.

Evaluation

1. State the three key differences in men’s wear given in this lesson.
2. Name the four main parts of a men’s shirt.
3. Why should the sleeves be attached before the side seams are sewn?
4. What is the purpose of a fly shield in trousers?
5. What causes bubbling in seams, and how can it be avoided?

Assignment

Draw a diagram of a shirt yoke and explain why we use two layers of fabric instead of one.