Advanced Pattern Drafting – SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (First Term)

A combination style merges two or more design elements, such as a peplum and a mermaid skirt, into one garment. Designers combine styles to make original clothes, to suit a specific body type, or to serve a purpose, such as a corporate outfit. Advanced pattern drafting applies this to necklines, waistlines, skirts, bodices and sleeves.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• explain what a combination style is and give reasons for combining styles;
• name examples of necklines, waistlines and skirt variations that can be combined;
• draft a princess dart bodice with a padded cup (bustier) using the steps given;
• describe the tiered sleeve and the puff-and-fit sleeve;
• apply the rules on seam allowances, the “walk” test and balance when combining styles.

What is a combination style?

In our previous lessons, we learned how to draft basic blocks: the bodice, the skirt and the sleeve. Now we move on to combination styles.

A combination style is the art of merging two or more different design elements into one single garment. Instead of just a “plain gown”, you might combine a peplum with a mermaid skirt, or a corset top with bishop sleeves.

Why do we combine styles?

1. Originality: It helps you create clothes that are not found in every shop.
2. Fit: Sometimes a combination is needed to suit a specific body type better.
3. Function: Combining a jacket style with a dress style makes a good “Boss Lady” corporate outfit.

Which design elements can be combined?

Before you pick up your brown paper and shears, you need to understand which parts of a dress can be swapped or combined.

Necklines

You can move away from basic round necks. Think about combining a sweetheart neckline with a high-neck lace overlay.

Waistlines

The waistline can be changed in many ways. Two examples are:

• Empress line: The seam is just below the bust.
• Basque waist: A “V” or “U” shape at the waist that makes the torso look longer.

Skirt variations

Combining a straight pencil skirt with a flared attachment at the bottom creates the popular six-piece or mermaid look.

How do you draft the padded blouse combination?

One of the most popular combination styles in modern fashion is the princess dart with a padded cup (bustier). It combines the classic princess seam with structural padding.

Steps to draft

1. Trace your basic bodice: Start with your standard front block.
2. Locate the apex: Mark your “bust point” (the nipple point).
3. The curve: Draw a smooth, curved line from the middle of the armhole down to the bust point, and then straight down to the waist dart.
4. The “cut-out”: To create the padded effect, subtract about 1.5 cm to 2 cm from the side of the dart to create a “cup” shape.

Pro tip: Always label your pieces “Centre Front” (CF) and “Side Front” (SF) so you do not mix them up after cutting.

What are the advanced sleeve combinations?

The sleeve can change the whole look of an outfit. Advanced drafting often involves combining a fitted sleeve with a flared one.

The tiered or layered sleeve

• Draft a basic short sleeve.
• Draft two or three circular “flares” (peplums) of different lengths.
• The combination: Attach these layers to the edge of the short sleeve.

The puff-and-fit sleeve

This sleeve combines a gathered “puff” at the shoulder with a tight, fitted look from the elbow to the wrist. It gives a Victorian, royal feel to any blouse.

Practical guide and troubleshooting

When you start combining styles, things can get tricky. Here are some “golden rules” to keep your sewing neat:

1. Matching seam allowances: If you cut a bodice into three pieces to create a new style, you must add seam allowances (usually 1.5 cm) to every new edge you created. If you forget, the blouse will be too small.
2. The “walk” test: Before cutting your fabric, take your paper patterns and “walk” the seams together. Does the side of the front match the side of the back? If one is longer than the other, trim it on the paper first.
3. Balance: If the top of your dress is very busy (for example, ruffles and big sleeves), keep the bottom simple. If the bottom is a massive ball gown, keep the top sleek.

Evaluation

1. What is a combination style? Give one example.
2. State three reasons for combining styles.
3. List the steps for drafting a princess dart with a padded cup (bustier).
4. Describe the puff-and-fit sleeve.
5. Why must you add seam allowances to every new edge when you cut a bodice into pieces?

Assignment

Look at a photo of a complex traditional outfit (such as an Aso-Ebi style). Try to identify the three basic patterns that were combined to make it.