Sleeves and Cuffs – SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (First Term)

A sleeve is the part of a garment that covers the arm. It is shaped at the top, called the sleeve cap, so that the wearer can move their arms freely. A cuff is the finished band of fabric at the bottom of a sleeve that holds it in place at the wrist.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

1. Describe the sleeve cap and explain why it must be shaped.
2. Name and describe five common types of sleeves.
3. Sew a set-in sleeve using ease stitching.
4. Name three types of cuffs and explain why a cuff needs interfacing.
5. Attach a cuff to a long sleeve with a placket.
6. Identify and correct common sleeve and cuff problems.

What is a sleeve?

A sleeve must be shaped so that the person wearing it can lift their arms, drive a car or write in a notebook without the fabric tearing.

What is the sleeve cap?

The most important part of a sleeve is the top curve, called the sleeve cap (also known as the crown).

• If the cap is too high, the sleeve will pull at the shoulder.
• If the cap is too flat, the person will not be able to lift their arms easily.

What are the common types of sleeves?

1. Set-in sleeve: The standard sleeve that follows the natural shoulder line (like on a school uniform or a suit).
2. Puff sleeve: Gathered at the top or bottom (or both) to give a “bubble” look.
3. Bishop sleeve: A long sleeve that is full at the bottom and gathered into a tight cuff.
4. Flare or bell sleeve: Wide and open at the bottom, like a bell.
5. Cap sleeve: A very short sleeve that just covers the very top of the shoulder.

How do you sew a set-in sleeve?

The set-in sleeve is a basic skill in tailoring. If you can fix this sleeve well, you can sew almost any other sleeve.

Ease stitching

The curve of the sleeve is usually 2cm to 3cm longer than the armhole of the blouse. You cannot just force it to fit. Follow these steps:

1. Run two rows of long stitches (gathering stitches) around the sleeve cap.
2. Pull the threads gently until the sleeve “cups” slightly. The cap should look smoothly curved, with no visible gathers.
3. Pin it: Match the centre of the sleeve to the shoulder seam. Pin the underarm seams together.
4. Sew: Keep the sleeve on the “bottom” and the blouse on “top” as you sew. This helps the machine feed the extra fabric smoothly.

What is a cuff?

A cuff is the finished band of fabric at the bottom of a sleeve. It holds the sleeve in place at the wrist and makes the garment look “expensive.”

What are the types of cuffs?

• One-piece cuff: A simple band folded over and sewn.
• Shirt cuff: A stiffened band that uses a button or cufflinks to close.
• French cuff: A double-length cuff that is folded back on itself (very formal).

Why does a cuff need interfacing?

Just like collars, cuffs must have interfacing (stiffening). Without it, the cuff will go limp after one wash, and the buttonholes will tear easily.

How do you sew a professional shirt cuff?

To attach a cuff to a long sleeve, you first need a sleeve placket. This is the opening that allows the hand to pass through.

Steps for construction

1. The placket: Create a “continuous wrap” or a “bound opening” at the bottom of the sleeve. This is the slit where the buttons will eventually be.
2. Pleating: Most sleeves are wider than the cuff. Make two or three small pleats at the back of the sleeve so it fits into the cuff band.
3. The “sandwich”: Pin the right side of the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve. Sew across.
4. The fold: Fold the cuff over to the right side of the sleeve. Tuck in the raw edges and top-stitch. This way, the neatest stitching is the part people see on the outside.

What are the common problems with sleeves and cuffs?

Even experienced tailors sometimes struggle with sleeves. Here is how to fix common issues:

1. The “twisted” sleeve: If the sleeve looks like it is twisting around the arm, the grainline was not matched. Always make sure your pattern is straight on the fabric before cutting.
2. Pointy shoulders: If the top of the sleeve looks like a “peak,” the sleeve cap was not curved smoothly. Use a French curve ruler to get a round, natural shape.
3. Tight cuffs: Always measure the person’s wrist plus 4cm to 5cm for ease. The person should be able to slide two fingers under the cuff comfortably.

Class exercise

Take a piece of paper and try to roll it into a cone. Notice how the top must be curved for it to sit flat on a surface. This is why we curve the top of a sleeve.

Evaluation

1. What is the sleeve cap, and what happens if it is too high or too flat?
2. Name three types of sleeves and describe each one.
3. Why must cuffs have interfacing?
4. How much should you add to the wrist measurement when making a cuff?

Assignment

1. List the four steps for sewing a set-in sleeve.
2. List the four steps for attaching a shirt cuff to a long sleeve.