Collars and Necklines – SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (First Term)

A neckline is the finished edge of a garment that sits around the neck. A collar is an extra piece of fabric attached to the neckline, either to keep the neck warm or purely for decoration. This lesson covers necklines, finishing without a collar, and sewing a Peter Pan collar and a shirt collar.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• name and describe five common types of neckline;
• explain why a neckline must be stay-stitched straight after cutting;
• finish a neckline without a collar, using bias binding or a facing;
• group collars into flat, standing and rolled collars, with an example of each;
• sew a Peter Pan collar by following the correct steps;
• state the order of work for attaching a shirt collar.

What is a neckline?

The neckline is the finished edge of a garment that sits around the neck. Before you add a collar, you must first master the base, which is the neckline itself.

Common types of necklines

1. Round neck: The most basic style, perfect for T-shirts and simple blouses.
2. V-neck: A “V” shape that helps make the neck look longer and slimmer.
3. Sweetheart neckline: Shaped like the top of a heart. It is very popular for bridal and “Aso-Ebi” styles.
4. Square neck: Gives a very structured, vintage look.
5. Boat neck (Bateau): A wide neckline that runs horizontally across the collarbone.

The “golden rule” of necklines

Always stay-stitch your neckline immediately after cutting the fabric. Because the neck is cut on a curve, part of the edge lies on the bias, and it can stretch out of shape very easily. If it stretches, your collar will never fit properly.

How do you finish a neckline without a collar?

If you are not adding a collar, you must finish the raw edges so they do not fray.

Method 1: Bias binding

This uses a strip of fabric cut on the bias (diagonally). It wraps around the raw edge. It is great for armholes and simple round necks.

Method 2: Facing

A facing is a “clone” of the neckline shape.

• Pro tip: When sewing a facing, always “clip” the curves. This means making tiny snips into the seam allowance (be careful not to cut the stitching). This allows the fabric to spread and lie flat against the chest.
• Under-stitching: This is a secret tailor’s trick. Sew the seam allowance to the facing. This keeps the facing tucked inside so it does not “peek” out while the person is walking.

What is a collar?

A collar is an extra piece of fabric attached to the neckline. It can be functional (to keep the neck warm) or purely decorative.

The three main categories of collars

1. Flat collars: These lie flat against the garment (e.g. the Peter Pan collar seen on school uniforms or vintage dresses).
2. Standing collars: These stand up straight around the neck (e.g. the Mandarin or Chinese collar).
3. Rolled collars: These stand up first and then fold over (e.g. the standard shirt collar).

What makes a collar look “sharp”?

Interfacing. Never sew a collar without adding a stiffener. Without it, the collar will look floppy and tired after just one wash.

How do you draft and sew a flat collar (Peter Pan)?

The Peter Pan collar is the best place for a student to start because it does not have a “stand”.

Steps to sew

1. Interfacing: Iron your stay-lap or collar stiffener onto the wrong side of one collar piece.
2. The “sandwich”: Place your two collar pieces right sides facing (pretty sides together).
3. The curve: Sew around the outer edge. Use a small stitch length on the curves to make them smooth.
4. Trimming: Trim the seam allowance very close to the stitches. This prevents the collar from looking bulky at the edges.
5. Turning: Turn it right side out and use a turning tool (or a dull pencil) to push out the edges.
6. The press: Iron it flat until the edges are crisp.

How do you sew a shirt collar (advanced construction)?

The shirt collar is more technical because it has two parts: the collar leaf and the collar stand.

The order of work

1. Prepare the leaf: Sew and turn the top part of the collar (the leaf) just like the Peter Pan collar.
2. Attach the stand: Sandwich the finished leaf between the two “stand” pieces.
3. Join to the shirt: This is the tricky part. Match the centre back of the collar to the centre back of the shirt neck. Pin it carefully all the way to the front plackets.
4. The final top-stitch: Sew slowly. This line of thread will be visible to everyone, so it must be perfectly straight.

Troubleshooting

• If the collar is too long for the neck: You likely stretched the neckline while sewing. Next time, use stay-stitching.
• If the corners are “blunt”: You did not trim enough fabric out of the corners before turning.

Evaluation

1. Name five common types of neckline.
2. Why should a neckline be stay-stitched immediately after cutting?
3. Describe two ways of finishing a neckline without a collar.
4. Name the three categories of collar and give one example of each.
5. List the steps for sewing a Peter Pan collar.

Assignment

Class task: Identify three different necklines from your fellow students’ outfits today. Can you tell which ones are finished with a facing and which ones have a binding?