Mock Project I – SS3 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

Mock Project I covers the steps that take a garment from an idea to cut fabric: sketching the design, choosing a suitable fabric, taking exact measurements, drafting the pattern on paper, laying the pattern on the fabric, and cutting. Careful work at this stage means the sewing that follows goes smoothly.

Subject: Fashion and Garment Making
Class: SS3
Lesson focus: Moving from an idea to a cut fabric.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• draw a front view and a back view sketch that shows the design details;
• match the weight of a fabric to the purpose of a garment;
• take and record the body measurements needed for a project;
• draft the standard pattern pieces on paper with the correct allowances;
• lay, pin and cut fabric correctly and mark the key points.

How do you plan the design?

Before you touch your scissors, you need a clear vision. Your SS3 Mock is a project, so it needs more planning than an ordinary dress.

The sketch (the plan)

• Do not worry if you are not a great artist. Just draw a front view and a back view.
• Details to include: Where will the zip go? Is the neckline V, round or sweetheart? Does it have pockets?
• Why sketch? If you change your mind halfway through cutting, you will waste fabric. The sketch is your “contract” with yourself.

Choosing the right fabric

• If your design has lots of pleats, do not use a very thick, stiff fabric.
• If you are making a structured suit, do not use a soft, “slippery” chiffon.
• Match the weight of the fabric to the purpose of the dress.

How do you take accurate measurements?

In a project, there is no room for “I think her waist is 30.” You must be exact.

The master list

Write these down clearly in your project notebook:

• Length: Full length, shoulder to waist, waist to knee.
• Width: Shoulder-to-shoulder, bust, waist, hips.
• Specifics: Sleeve length, round-arm (bicep), and the “depth” of the neckline.

The “sitting” test

• When measuring the hips, ask the person to sit down, or put two fingers inside the tape measure. If it is too tight while they are standing, it will rip when they sit.

Check twice, cut once

• Read your tape measure from the “1” inch mark. Sometimes the metal tip at the beginning is worn out, so be careful.

What is pattern drafting?

You have two choices: freehand cutting or pattern drafting. For a mock project, drafting on brown paper is safer. The pattern is the blueprint for the garment.

Drafting on paper

• It allows you to play with the style. If you make a mistake on paper, you can use masking tape to fix it. If you make a mistake on fabric, it is gone.
• Marking allowances: Remember to add 1 inch for side seams and 2 inches for the hem. If you forget this on your pattern, the dress will be too small.

The standard pieces

• You should have: front bodice, back bodice, sleeve and facings.
• Label them clearly so you do not accidentally cut two “left” sleeves.

How do you lay the fabric for cutting?

Cutting is like playing a game of Tetris. You want to use as little fabric as possible while keeping the quality high.

The fold

• Fold your fabric “right sides together”. This means you draw your chalk lines on the “wrong side” (the back) of the cloth.
• This keeps the front of the dress clean and free of chalk marks.

Following the grain

• Look at the edge of the fabric (the selvedge). Your pattern pieces must be straight along this line. If you cut “slanty”, the dress will pull to one side when worn.

Pinning

• Use enough pins to keep the paper from moving. If the paper shifts by even half an inch, the whole dress will be lopsided.

How do you cut the fabric?

Once you cut, there is no turning back, so work calmly.

The right tool

• Use sharp shears. If your scissors are “chewing” the fabric, stop and sharpen them. Jagged edges make for messy sewing.

The cutting motion

• Keep your non-cutting hand flat on the fabric to hold it down.
• Cut with long, confident strokes. Short, “choppy” snips create a rough edge that is hard to overlock later.

Marking key points

Before you remove the paper pattern, use your chalk or a small “snip” to mark:

1. the centre of the sleeve;
2. the top of the darts;
3. the zip end-point.

Designing and cutting is the “brain work” of tailoring. If you do this part with patience and care, the sewing will be much easier. Do not rush: measure carefully and cut once.

Evaluation

1. Why should you draw a sketch before cutting? Name two details it should show.
2. Why should the weight of the fabric match the purpose of the garment?
3. Explain the “sitting” test when measuring the hips.
4. State the allowances to add for side seams and for the hem.
5. Name the four standard pattern pieces.
6. Why do you draw chalk lines on the wrong side of the fabric?

Assignment

1. Draw a front view and a back view sketch of a simple dress. Show the neckline, the zip position and any pockets.
2. List the length, width and specific measurements you would take for the dress.
3. Write the steps you would follow to lay out and cut the fabric, from folding it to marking the key points.