Textile Designs SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

Introduction to Textile Design

Textile design is the process of creating patterns and colors on fabric. In Nigeria, we have a very rich history of this, especially with Adire (Tie & Dye) and Batik.

What is the Goal? The goal is to “resist” the dye. This means we cover some parts of the white cloth so that when we dip it into the color, the covered parts stay white. When we remove the “resist” (the strings or the wax), a beautiful pattern appears.

Basic Requirements:

1. Fabric: 100% Cotton works best. Synthetic fabrics like polyester don’t “take” the dye well.
2. Dye: Cold-water dyes (VAT dyes) are common.
3. Chemicals: Caustic Soda and Sodium Hydrosulphite (these help the dye “stick” to the fabric).
4. Safety Gear: Gloves and an apron. These chemicals can be harsh on the skin!

The Art of Tie & Dye (Adire Oniko/Eleko)

Tie and Dye is exactly what the name says: you tie the fabric and then you dye it.

Common Tying Techniques:

• Marbling: Crumple the fabric into a ball and tie it tightly with string. This creates a “cracked” look.
• Pleating/Folding: Fold the fabric like a fan (accordion fold). This creates straight stripes.
• Circles (Sunburst): Pull up a small piece of fabric and tie it at the base. This creates a “ring” or circle.
• Binding: Wrapping string very tightly around a section of fabric to create thick white lines.

Pro Tip: The tighter you tie the string, the whiter your pattern will be. If the string is loose, the dye will leak under it and ruin the design.

The Art of Batik (Wax Resist)

Batik is different from Tie & Dye because we use Melted Wax or Starch to create the design instead of string.

The Batik Process:

1. Melting the Wax: We use a mixture of paraffin wax and beeswax.
2. Applying the Design: You can use a brush, a carved wooden stamp, or a “Tjanting” tool to draw on the fabric with hot wax.
3. Dyeing: The fabric is dipped into a cold dye bath. The wax blocks the dye from entering the fibers.
4. Dewaxing: After the fabric is dry, we dip it into boiling water to melt the wax away, leaving the white design behind.

The “Crackle” Effect: One of the most beautiful parts of Batik is when the wax cracks slightly, letting tiny veins of color through. We call this the “marble effect.”

Step-by-Step Dyeing Process

Once your fabric is tied or waxed, it’s time for the “Chemistry.”

The Dye Bath Recipe:

1. Dissolve the Dye in a small amount of warm water.
2. Add Caustic Soda (this opens the fabric fibers).
3. Add Sodium Hydrosulphite (this removes the oxygen so the dye can work).
4. Add enough water to cover your fabric completely.

The Method:

• Wet your tied fabric in clean water first (this helps the dye go in evenly).
• Submerge it in the dye bath for 15–20 minutes. Stir it gently with a stick.
• Oxidation: Take the fabric out. At first, it might look green or yellow, but as the air (oxygen) hits it, it will turn into the final color (like blue or purple).
• Rinsing: Wash it in clean water until the water runs clear.

Finishing and Maintenance

A great textile designer doesn’t just dye fabric; they make sure the color stays.

1. Fixing the Colour: To stop the color from “running” when the customer washes it, we often use a salt-water rinse or a chemical “fixer.”
2. Ironing: Ironing the fabric while it is slightly damp helps “set” the design and makes the fabric smooth for sewing.
3. Troubleshooting:

• If the color is too light: You didn’t use enough dye or you didn’t leave it in the bath long enough.
• If there are “spots”: You didn’t stir the dye bath properly before putting the fabric in.
• If the wax won’t come off: Your “dewaxing” water wasn’t hot enough. It must be boiling!

Class Activity: Take a small white handkerchief. Try the “Marbling” technique by crumpling it and tying it with a rubber band. We will dye these in the next practical session!