Textile Designs – SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Third Term)

Textile design is the process of creating patterns and colours on fabric. In Nigeria, Adire (tie and dye) and Batik are two well-known examples. Both work by resisting the dye: parts of white cloth are covered with string, wax or starch so they stay white when the cloth is dipped in dye.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• explain what “resist” means in textile design;
• list the basic materials and safety gear needed for dyeing;
• describe four tying techniques used in tie and dye;
• outline the four steps of the Batik process;
• follow the steps for preparing a dye bath and dyeing fabric;
• suggest causes of common dyeing faults and how to finish dyed fabric.

What is the goal of textile design?

In Nigeria, we have a very rich history of textile design, especially with Adire (tie and dye) and Batik.

The goal is to “resist” the dye. This means we cover some parts of the white cloth so that when we dip it into the colour, the covered parts stay white. When we remove the “resist” (the strings or the wax), a beautiful pattern appears.

What materials are needed?

1. Fabric: 100% cotton works best. Synthetic fabrics like polyester do not “take” the dye well.
2. Dye: Cold-water dyes (vat dyes) are common.
3. Chemicals: Caustic soda and sodium hydrosulphite (these help the dye “stick” to the fabric).
4. Safety gear: Gloves and an apron. These chemicals can be harsh on the skin.

What is tie and dye (Adire Oniko)?

Tie and dye is exactly what the name says: you tie the fabric and then you dye it.

Common tying techniques

• Marbling: Crumple the fabric into a ball and tie it tightly with string. This creates a “cracked” look.
• Pleating/folding: Fold the fabric like a fan (accordion fold). This creates straight stripes.
• Circles (sunburst): Pull up a small piece of fabric and tie it at the base. This creates a “ring” or circle.
• Binding: Wrap string very tightly around a section of fabric to create thick white lines.

Tip: The tighter you tie the string, the whiter your pattern will be. If the string is loose, the dye will leak under it and ruin the design.

What is Batik (wax resist)?

Batik is different from tie and dye because we use melted wax or starch to create the design instead of string.

The Batik process

1. Melting the wax: We use a mixture of paraffin wax and beeswax.
2. Applying the design: You can use a brush, a carved wooden stamp, or a “Tjanting” tool to draw on the fabric with hot wax.
3. Dyeing: The fabric is dipped into a cold dye bath. The wax blocks the dye from entering the fibres.
4. Dewaxing: After the fabric is dry, we dip it into boiling water to melt the wax away, leaving the white design behind.

The “crackle” effect

One of the most beautiful parts of Batik is when the wax cracks slightly, letting tiny veins of colour through. We call this the “marble effect.”

How do you dye the fabric?

Once your fabric is tied or waxed, the next stage is dyeing, which uses chemicals.

The dye bath recipe

1. Dissolve the dye in a small amount of warm water.
2. Add caustic soda (this opens the fabric fibres).
3. Add sodium hydrosulphite (this removes the oxygen so the dye can work).
4. Add enough water to cover your fabric completely.

The method

• Wet your tied fabric in clean water first (this helps the dye go in evenly).
• Submerge it in the dye bath for 15 to 20 minutes. Stir it gently with a stick.
• Oxidation: Take the fabric out. At first, it might look green or yellow, but as the air (oxygen) hits it, it will turn into the final colour (like blue or purple).
• Rinsing: Wash it in clean water until the water runs clear.

How do you finish and care for dyed fabric?

A good textile designer also makes sure the colour stays.

1. Fixing the colour: To stop the colour from “running” when the customer washes it, we often use a salt-water rinse or a chemical “fixer.”
2. Ironing: Ironing the fabric while it is slightly damp helps “set” the design and makes the fabric smooth for sewing.

Troubleshooting

• If the colour is too light: You did not use enough dye or you did not leave the fabric in the bath long enough.
• If there are “spots”: You did not stir the dye bath properly before putting the fabric in.
• If the wax will not come off: Your dewaxing water was not hot enough. It must be boiling.

Class activity

Take a small white handkerchief. Try the “marbling” technique by crumpling it and tying it with a rubber band. We will dye these in the next practical session.

Evaluation

1. What does “resist” mean in textile design?
2. Why is 100% cotton the best fabric for dyeing?
3. Name the four tying techniques used in tie and dye.
4. List the four steps of the Batik process.
5. What should you do if the wax will not come off the fabric?

Assignment

Write the steps for preparing a dye bath and dyeing a tied fabric. State two common dyeing faults and their causes.