Color and Design Principles – SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Third Term)

Colour and design principles are the tools a fashion designer uses to make a garment look right. The colour wheel guides the choice of colours and colour schemes, while balance, proportion, emphasis, rhythm and unity guide how the parts of the outfit fit together as one complete idea.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• name the primary and secondary colours and say how the secondary colours are made;
• distinguish between warm and cool colours;
• describe the four common colour schemes and apply the 60-30-10 rule;
• explain symmetrical and asymmetrical balance;
• explain proportion, emphasis, rhythm and unity in a garment design.

What is the colour wheel?

Colour is the first thing people notice when they look at an outfit. It can make someone look happy, professional or even taller. To use colour well, we use a tool called the colour wheel.

The three primary colours

These are the “parents” of all other colours. You cannot mix any colours to get them.

• Red
• Blue
• Yellow

The secondary colours

These are made by mixing two primary colours together.

• Orange (red + yellow)
• Green (blue + yellow)
• Purple/violet (red + blue)

The “mood” of colours

• Warm colours: reds, oranges and yellows. These are bold and “pop” out.
• Cool colours: blues, greens and purples. These are calm and soothing.

How do we create colour harmony?

“Harmony” is just a fancy word for colours that get along well together. When an outfit has harmony, it feels “right.”

Common colour schemes

1. Monochromatic: using different shades of the same colour (for example, a dark blue skirt with a sky blue blouse). This makes a person look taller.
2. Complementary: using colours directly opposite each other on the wheel (for example, yellow and purple). This is very bold and high-contrast.
3. Analogous: using colours that sit next to each other (for example, blue, blue-green and green). This is very peaceful and easy on the eyes.
4. Neutral: using “non-colours” like black, white, grey and brown. These are the “safe” colours that every tailor needs.

The “60-30-10” rule

In a 3-piece outfit, use 60% of a main colour, 30% of a second colour and 10% for an “accent” (like a bright belt or a scarf).

What is the principle of balance?

Balance is about how “heavy” a design looks. You do not want one side of a dress to look as if it is pulling the model down.

Why balance matters

If you put all the heavy ruffles and pockets on one side, the person wearing the dress will look lopsided.

What are proportion and emphasis?

Proportion (the “Golden Ratio”)

Proportion is the relationship between the sizes of different parts of an outfit.

• A very short blouse with very long trousers looks modern.
• A very long blouse with short shorts can look “stumpy.”
• Tailor’s tip: for most bodies, a 1/3 to 2/3 ratio works best. This means the top is 1/3 of the total height and the bottom is 2/3.

Emphasis (the “focal point”)

Every great outfit needs a “star.” This is the part of the dress where you want people to look first.

• You can create emphasis with a bright colour, a big bow or some beautiful lace.
• Warning: have only one focal point. If the neck is busy, keep the hem simple. If the belt is huge and sparkly, keep the collar plain.

What are rhythm and unity?

Rhythm (movement)

Rhythm is what carries the eye across the garment. You can create rhythm by:

• Repetition: repeating a pattern or a row of buttons.
• Gradation: colours going from light to dark (ombré).
• Radiation: lines coming out from a centre point (like gathers in a sunray skirt).

Unity (the final goal)

Unity is when all the principles, such as colour, balance and rhythm, work together so the outfit looks like one complete idea.

Practical checklist for students

Before you finish your design, ask yourself:

1. Is the colour scheme harmonious?
2. Does the dress have a clear “focal point”?
3. Is the left side balanced with the right side?
4. Does the “top” look like it belongs with the “bottom”?

Class activity

Take three scraps of different coloured fabric. Try to arrange them in a complementary scheme and then in an analogous scheme. Which one do you think would make a better office outfit?

Evaluation

1. Name the three primary colours and the three secondary colours. State which colours are mixed to make each secondary colour.
2. Distinguish between warm colours and cool colours.
3. Explain the complementary and analogous colour schemes, with one example of each.
4. Explain the 60-30-10 rule.
5. Differentiate between symmetrical and asymmetrical balance.

Assignment

Plan a simple 3-piece outfit. Write down the colour scheme you chose, the colours you will use for the 60%, 30% and 10% parts, the focal point of the design, and the type of balance. Check your plan against the practical checklist.