Pattern Drafting II – SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Third Term)

A one-piece dress pattern is made by joining the basic bodice block and the basic skirt block at the waistline, so the dress runs from the shoulder to the hem without a waist seam.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

1. Join the basic bodice block and the basic skirt block to make a one-piece dress pattern.
2. Add flare to a skirt pattern to make an A-line dress.
3. Draft a neck facing.
4. Adapt a pattern for a shift dress, including the back opening.
5. Check a finished paper pattern using the final pattern checklist.

What is a one-piece dress?

A one-piece dress is a dress cut without a seam at the waist, so it falls straight from the shoulder to the hem.

• Shift dress: a straight dress that hangs loosely from the shoulder and does not hug the waist.
• A-line dress: a dress that flares out slightly towards the hem, like the letter A.
• Basic bodice block: the plain paper pattern for the upper body, from shoulder to waist.
• Basic skirt block: the plain paper pattern for the lower body, from waist to hem.
• Hem: the bottom edge of the dress, folded and stitched to finish it.

What tools are needed to draft a dress pattern?

• Brown paper: a large sheet to draw the full pattern on.
• Pencil and eraser: for drawing and correcting lines.
• Ruler or metre rule: for straight lines and measuring.
• Curve ruler: for smooth neck, armhole and hip curves.
• Paper scissors: for cutting out the pattern. Keep them apart from fabric scissors.

How do you join the blocks?

1. Place the front bodice paper on a large sheet of brown paper.
2. Place the front skirt paper directly under it, touching at the waistline.
3. Line up the centre front lines so they form one straight line.
4. Trace round both blocks.
5. Smooth out the side lines so they connect in one continuous curve.
6. Repeat the steps for the back blocks.

Why draft a dress as one piece?

• Easy to sew: it is easier for beginners because there is no waist seam to match.
• Comfortable: it is more comfortable to wear for casual occasions.
• Saves fabric: it uses less fabric than a dress with a gathered waist.

What is an A-line dress?

An A-line dress is a one-piece dress whose side seams slant outwards from the hip to the hem, giving a slight flare.

A shift dress is the straight version, with side seams that drop down without flaring. The table shows the difference.

How do you draft the flare?

1. Go to the bottom corner (the hem) of the skirt pattern.
2. Measure out 5 cm to 10 cm away from the side.
3. Mark the new point.
4. Draw a new side line from the hip down to this new point.
5. Repeat on the other side of the pattern.
6. Draw the new hem line from the new point to the centre.

• The “trueing” trick: a flared side becomes longer than the middle.
• What to do: curve the bottom hem slightly upward at the side so the dress does not droop at the corners when worn.

How do you draft a neck facing?

A facing is a shaped piece of fabric sewn to the neckline and turned inside to hide the raw edge.

1. Place a small piece of paper under the neckline of the dress pattern.
2. Trace the exact curve of the neck and about 5 cm of the shoulder.
3. Move the dress pattern away.
4. Draw a parallel curve 5 cm below the first one.
5. Join the two curves at the shoulder end and cut out the piece.

• The result: a curved “C” shaped pattern piece.
• Use: cut it from fabric and sew it to the neck so all raw edges are hidden inside the dress.
• Why use it: a curved edge is hard to fold neatly, so a facing gives a flat, tidy finish.
• Front and back: draft a facing for the front neck and one for the back neck.

How do you adapt the pattern for a shift dress?

A shift dress is a straight dress that does not hug the waist, and it is popular in Nigeria for office wear and “free gowns”.

Removing the waist darts

• Reason: a shift dress is loose, so the waist darts are not needed.
• Method: ignore the waist dart lines and draw a straighter side seam from the armhole to the hip.

Making the back opening

• Why it is needed: a simple dress will not fit over the head unless the fabric is stretchy.
• Zip opening: mark the centre back line on the back pattern for a zip.
• Slit with a button: mark a short slit at the neck on the back pattern, closed with a button.
• Teacher’s note: add 2 cm of seam allowance to the centre back for the zip.
• Cutting: cut the back as 2 pieces, because the centre back is now open.

What should you check before cutting the fabric?

Check the paper patterns for these five essentials before cutting the fabric.

1. Labelling: write “FRONT” and “BACK” on the pieces. They look similar, but the front neck is always deeper.
2. Cutting instructions: write “Cut 1 on Fold” or “Cut 2” on each piece.
3. Seam allowances: add 1.5 cm for the sides and 4 cm for the bottom hem.
4. Matching notches: put small marks on the side seams so you know where the hip should meet.
5. The shoulder test: hold the front and back shoulder patterns together. They must be exactly the same width, or the dress will be lopsided.

Class practical

Draft a shift dress pattern for a standard Size 10.

1. Join the front bodice and skirt blocks, then the back blocks.
2. Remove the waist darts and straighten the side seams.
3. Draw the neck, mark the back opening and add seam allowances.
4. Check the armhole curve and run the checklist.

• Armhole tip: the armhole curve must be smooth and shaped like a “U”, not a “V”, or the sleeve will not fit.

Evaluation

1. Give two reasons for drafting a dress as one piece.
2. How far from the side do you measure at the hem to add flare to an A-line dress?
3. Why must you curve the hem slightly upward at the side of a flared dress?
4. Why do we ignore the waist darts when drafting a shift dress?
5. What seam allowance do you add to the centre back for a zipper?

Assignment

Using your basic bodice block and basic skirt block, draft a front pattern for an A-line dress. Draft a neck facing for it, then check your pattern against the final pattern checklist.