Pattern Drafting II SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

Understanding the “One-Piece” Dress

A simple dress pattern is often called a Shift or A-line dress. Unlike a gown that has a seam at the waist, a simple dress often flows from the shoulder straight down to the hem.

To draft this, we combine our Basic Bodice Block and our Basic Skirt Block.

The Process of Joining:

1. Place your front bodice paper on a large sheet of brown paper.
2. Place your front skirt paper directly under it, touching at the waistline.
3. Smooth out the side lines so they connect in one beautiful, continuous curve.

Why draft a dress as one piece?

• It is easier for beginners to sew.
• It is more comfortable to wear for casual occasions.
• It uses less fabric than a gathered waist dress.

The A-Line Dress (Adding Flare)

Most students don’t want a dress that is a tight rectangle. We want a dress that “flares” out slightly at the bottom so we can walk comfortably. This is called the A-Line.

How to draft the Flare:

• Go to the bottom corner (the hem) of your skirt pattern.
• Measure out 5cm to 10cm away from the side.
• Draw a new side line from the hip down to this new point.
• The “Trueing” Trick: When you flare a dress, the side becomes longer than the middle. You must curve the bottom hem slightly upward at the side so the dress doesn’t “droop” at the corners when you wear it.

Necklines and Facing Patterns

A dress isn’t finished until the neck looks neat. We don’t just fold the raw edge of a curve; we use something called a Facing.

• Drafting the Facing:
  1. Place a small piece of paper under the neckline of your dress pattern.
  2. Trace the exact curve of the neck and about 5cm of the shoulder.
  3. Move the dress pattern away and draw a parallel curve 5cm below the first one.
• The Result: You now have a “C” shaped pattern piece. You cut this out of fabric and sew it to the neck to hide all the raw edges inside the dress.

Adapting for Style (The Shift Dress)

A Shift Dress is a straight dress that doesn’t hug the waist. It is very popular in Nigeria for office wear or “Free Gowns.”

• Removing the Darts: Since a shift dress is loose, we don’t need the waist darts. On our pattern, we simply ignore the dart lines and draw a straighter side seam from the armhole to the hip.
• Back Opening: Most simple dresses won’t fit over the head unless the fabric is stretchy. On your Back Pattern, you must mark a line for a Zipper or a Slit with a Button.
  1. Teacher’s Note: Always remember to add 2cm of “Seam Allowance” to the center back for the zipper!

Final Pattern Checklist

Before you take your scissors to your expensive fabric, check your paper patterns for these “Top 5” essentials:

1. Labeling: Did you write “FRONT” and “BACK” on the pieces? (They look similar, but the front neck is always deeper!).
2. Cutting Instructions: Did you write “Cut 1 on Fold” or “Cut 2”?
3. Seam Allowances: Did you add 1.5cm for the sides and 4cm for the bottom hem?
4. Matching Notches: Did you put small marks on the side seams so you know where the hip should meet?
5. The Shoulder Test: Hold the front and back shoulder patterns together. Are they exactly the same width? If not, your dress will be lopsided!

Class Practical: We are going to draft a “Shift Dress” pattern for a standard Size 10. We will focus on making sure the “Armhole” curve is smooth. If your armhole looks like a “V” instead of a “U,” your sleeve will never fit!