Body Measurements – SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Third Term)

Body measurements are the figures a tailor takes from a client’s body so that a garment fits that person.

• Horizontal measurements: taken around the body, such as bust, waist, hips and neck.
• Vertical measurements: lengths taken up and down the body, such as full length and inside leg.
• Width and limb measurements: taken across the shoulders and along or around the arm.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

1. state the rules for taking accurate body measurements;
2. take horizontal measurements (bust, waist, hips and neck);
3. take vertical measurements (shoulder to waist, skirt or trouser length, full length and inside leg);
4. take width and limb measurements (shoulder width, sleeve length, round arm and wrist);
5. record measurements in a measurement book.

What tools are needed for taking body measurements?

A tailor needs a few simple tools to measure a client correctly.

• Measuring tape: a flexible tape, usually 150 cm (60 inches) long, marked in centimetres on one side and inches on the other.
• Measurement book: a notebook kept for recording each client’s figures.
• Pen or pencil: used to write each figure down at once.

Units: 1 inch is about 2.54 cm. Always write the unit you used beside each figure.

Why does accuracy matter?

Accurate measurements let a tailor sew for the individual instead of guessing sizes such as Small, Medium or Large.

• Bodies differ: some people have long arms, some have narrow waists and some have broad shoulders.
• Fit: a garment cut from correct figures sits well and is comfortable.
• Saving cloth and time: a wrong figure can waste fabric and force the tailor to unpick and sew again.

What are the golden rules of measuring?

The golden rules are the habits that keep every measurement accurate and comfortable for the client.

1. The “two-finger” rule: when measuring the waist or bust, keep two fingers flat under the tape. This stops the clothes being so tight that the person cannot breathe or eat.
2. The right undergarments: tell the person to wear what they would normally wear under the dress. A thick padded bra or heavy jeans can change the numbers.
3. Stand straight: the person must stand tall but relaxed. They must not suck in the stomach.
4. Use a good tape: make sure the tape is not stretched out or broken at the metal tip.

What are horizontal measurements?

Horizontal measurements are the figures taken around the body. They are the most important for making sure the clothes can close.

• Bust (chest): wrap the tape around the fullest part of the chest, keeping it level across the back.
• Waist: measure around the narrowest part of the torso.
• Hips: measure around the widest part of the buttocks. This is usually about 20 cm (8 inches) below the waistline.
• Neck: measure around the base of the neck. This is vital for shirts with collars.

How do you find the natural waistline?

The natural waistline is the place where the body creases when the person bends to the side.

1. Ask the person to stand straight.
2. Ask them to bend gently to one side.
3. Note the place where the body creases.
4. Tie a string or place the tape there, then measure around it.

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What are vertical measurements?

Vertical measurements are the lengths taken up and down the body. They show how long the garment should be and prevent trousers or skirts that are too short.

• Shoulder to waist: measure from the base of the neck (near the shoulder) down to the waistline.
• Skirt or trouser length: measure from the waist down to where the person wants the garment to end, such as the knee, calf or ankle.
• Full length: for a gown, measure from the shoulder all the way to the floor. If the person will wear high heels, ask them to put them on first.
• Inside leg: for trousers, measure from the crotch down to the ankle.

What are width and limb measurements?

Width and limb measurements are the figures taken across the shoulders and along or around the arm. They make sleeves and shoulders fit neatly.

• Shoulder width: measure from the bone at the edge of one shoulder, across the back, to the bone at the edge of the other shoulder.
• Sleeve length: with the arm slightly bent, measure from the shoulder bone down to the wrist.
• Round arm (bicep): measure around the fullest part of the upper arm.
• Wrist: measure around the wrist bone. This is important for shirts with cuffs.

What is the difference between the three groups of measurements?

Each group answers a different question: how wide, how long, or how wide across and along the limbs.

How do you organise a measurement book?

A measurement book is a notebook in which a tailor writes each client’s figures straight after measuring.

• Write at once: a good tailor never relies on memory.
• One page per client: write the client’s name and the date at the top.
• State the unit: write cm or inches beside the figures.

What does a standard measurement chart look like?

What practical advice should a tailor follow?

• Be polite: always ask for permission before touching a client to measure them.
• Double check: measure a second time to be sure. It takes 10 seconds to re-measure, but 2 hours to fix a mistake.
• Tape position: keep the tape flat and parallel to the floor when going around the body. If it droops at the back, the measurement will be too large.

Class activity

1. Pair up with a classmate.
2. Use your measuring tapes to take each other’s bust, waist and shoulder measurements.
3. Write the figures in your measurement book.
4. Compare your numbers with your partner’s. Check whether you used the “two-finger” rule.

Evaluation

1. State the “two-finger” rule and say when it is used.
2. Name the four horizontal measurements and describe where to take each one.
3. How do you find the natural waistline?
4. Describe how to take the sleeve length and the full length of a gown.
5. Why should a tailor write measurements down immediately and measure twice?

Assignment

Draw the standard measurement chart in your notebook. Take the measurements listed in the chart for a member of your family, with their permission, and record them in the chart.