Fabrics Layout and Cutting SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

Understanding Your Fabric (Grain and Nap)

Before you lay your pattern paper down, you must understand how fabric is “built.” If you cut in the wrong direction, the dress might stretch out of shape or look like it has two different colors!

1. The Grain: Fabric is made of threads going two ways:

• Lengthwise Grain (Selvedge): These threads run parallel to the finished edge of the cloth. They are very strong and don’t stretch much. This is usually how we want our clothes to hang (up and down).
• Crosswise Grain: These threads go across. They have a little bit of “give” or stretch.
• The Bias: This is the diagonal direction (45∘ angle). This is very stretchy! We use this for making “bias tape” or flowy “cowat-neck” dresses.

2. The Nap: Some fabrics, like Velvet or Corduroy, have a “hairy” surface. If you rub your hand one way, it feels smooth; the other way, it feels rough. This is the Nap.

• Rule: All your pattern pieces must face the same direction on napped fabric, or one half of the dress will look darker than the other in the light!

Preparing the Fabric

You don’t just take fabric from the market and start cutting. You need to “pre-treat” it first:

1. Straighten the Ends: Sometimes the person at the market cuts the fabric crooked. Pull a single thread across the width and cut along that line to get a perfectly straight edge.
2. Pressing: If your fabric is wrinkled, your pattern will be the wrong size when you cut it. Iron the fabric flat before you start.
3. Preshrinking: Fabrics like 100% Cotton often shrink after the first wash. It’s a good idea to damp the fabric and iron it dry so the shrinking happens before you sew the dress.

Layout Methods (How to Fold)

How you fold your fabric depends on how many pieces you need to cut and how much fabric you have.

• Lengthwise Fold: The most common way. You fold the fabric in half so the two “selvedges” (finished edges) touch. This gives you a long, narrow piece of cloth.
• Crosswise Fold: Folding the fabric across its width. This is useful if your pattern pieces are very wide.
• Double Fold (Off-Center Fold): You fold the two edges toward the middle. This is great when you need to cut two different pieces “on the fold” at the same time.

Pinning Your Patterns

Once your fabric is folded neatly on a flat table (not your lap!), it’s time to pin.

• Start with the “On Fold” pieces: These are the most important. Place them exactly on the folded edge.
• Follow the Grain Line: Every pattern piece has an arrow. That arrow must be perfectly parallel to the selvedge. Use a ruler to measure from the arrow to the edge of the cloth at the top and bottom to make sure it’s straight.
• Economical Layout: Place your pieces like a puzzle. Try to leave as little “waste” fabric as possible.
• Pinning Rule: Place pins about 10cm apart. Point the pins toward the inside of the pattern so they don’t get in the way of your scissors.

The Master’s Cutting Rules

Now, take a deep breath and pick up your shears.

1. Keep it Flat: Never lift the fabric off the table while cutting. Keep the bottom blade of the scissors touching the table at all times. If you lift it, the bottom layer will shift and your pieces will be uneven.
2. Long, Smooth Strokes: Use the full length of the scissor blades. Short “choppy” cuts make the edges look like a zigzag.
3. Cut Outside the Line: Always cut exactly on the outer edge of your chalk line or pattern paper.
4. Don’t Cut the Pins: If your scissors hit a metal pin, it will ruin the blade.
5. Marking: Before you remove the paper, use your tailor’s chalk to mark the notches and dart points onto the fabric.

Teacher’s Advice: Always check your layout one last time before you cut. Did you forget the back piece? Is the “Front” actually on the fold? Once you’re sure, go for it!