Fabrics Layout and Cutting – SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Third Term)

Fabric layout and cutting is the process of preparing cloth, folding it, placing and pinning pattern pieces on it, and cutting it out.

• Grain: follow the lengthwise grain so the garment hangs well.
• Nap: keep all pieces facing the same way on napped cloth.
• Preparation: straighten, press and preshrink the fabric first.
• Cutting: use long, smooth strokes along the marked line.

Behavioural objectives

1. Explain the lengthwise grain, crosswise grain and bias of a fabric.
2. State what nap is and how it affects the placing of pattern pieces.
3. Prepare fabric for cutting by straightening, pressing and preshrinking it.
4. Describe the lengthwise, crosswise and double fold layout methods.
5. Pin pattern pieces correctly and follow the rules for cutting fabric.

What tools are used for layout and cutting?

Layout and cutting need a small set of tools, each with one job.

• Cutting table: a large, flat surface so the fabric lies smooth and does not hang off the edge.
• Dressmaker’s shears: long, sharp scissors with a bent handle, used only for cloth.
• Tailor’s chalk: marks cutting lines, notches and dart points on the fabric.
• Pins: hold the pattern paper on the fabric.
• Ruler or tape measure: checks that the grain line is straight.
• Iron: removes creases before cutting.

What are grain and nap?

Grain and nap describe the direction of the threads and the surface of the fabric, and both decide how pattern pieces are placed.

If you cut in the wrong direction, the garment may stretch out of shape or look as if it has two different colours.

What is grain?

Grain is the direction of the threads in a woven fabric, and there are three grain directions: lengthwise, crosswise and bias.

• Lengthwise grain: threads run parallel to the selvedge (the finished edge of the cloth). They are strong and stretch very little.
• Crosswise grain: threads run across the width, from selvedge to selvedge. They have a little give.
• Bias: the diagonal direction, at 45° to the threads. It stretches the most.

What is nap?

Nap is the raised, hairy surface on some fabrics that feels smooth when stroked one way and rough the other way.

• Examples: velvet and corduroy.
• Effect: light reflects differently from pieces cut in opposite directions, so one part looks darker than another.
• Rule: all pattern pieces must face the same direction on napped fabric.
• One-way designs: printed fabrics with a direction, such as a design with the top and bottom, follow the same rule.

How do you prepare fabric before cutting?

Fabric is prepared for cutting by straightening the ends, pressing out creases and preshrinking it.

Do not take fabric from the market and start cutting. Pre-treat it in this order:

1. Straighten the ends: a crooked cut at the market spoils the layout. Pull a single thread across the width and cut along that line to get a straight edge.
2. Press the fabric: wrinkles change the size of the pieces you cut. Iron the cloth flat before you start.
3. Preshrink the fabric: fabrics such as 100% cotton often shrink after the first wash. Dampen the cloth and iron it dry so the shrinking happens before you sew.

What are the layout methods?

There are three layout methods: the lengthwise fold, the crosswise fold and the double fold.

The method you choose depends on the number of pieces to cut and the amount of fabric you have.

• Lengthwise fold: the most common way. Fold the fabric in half so the two selvedges touch. This gives a long, narrow piece of cloth.
• Crosswise fold: fold the fabric across its width. It is useful when pattern pieces are very wide.
• Double fold (off-centre fold): fold both edges toward the middle. It is useful when two different pieces must be cut “on the fold” at the same time.

How do you pin the pattern on fabric?

Pinning is fixing the pattern pieces to the folded fabric so they stay in place while you cut.

Fold the fabric neatly on a flat table, not on your lap, then follow these steps:

1. Start with the “on fold” pieces: place them exactly on the folded edge.
2. Follow the grain line: every pattern piece has an arrow, and it must be parallel to the selvedge.
3. Check the arrow with a ruler: measure from the arrow to the edge of the cloth at the top and at the bottom. Both distances must be equal.
4. Use an economical layout: fit the pieces together like a puzzle to leave as little waste as possible.
5. Pin the pieces: place pins about 10 cm apart, with the points toward the inside of the pattern so they stay clear of the scissors.

What are the rules for cutting fabric?

The rules for cutting fabric keep the pieces accurate and the edges smooth.

1. Keep it flat: never lift the fabric off the table. Keep the bottom blade on the table, or the bottom layer will shift and the pieces will be uneven.
2. Use long, smooth strokes: use the full length of the blades. Short, choppy cuts leave a zigzag edge.
3. Cut on the line: cut exactly along the outer edge of the pattern paper or chalk line. Do not cut inside it.
4. Do not cut the pins: a metal pin can damage the blades.
5. Mark before you remove the paper: use tailor’s chalk to mark notches and dart points on the fabric.

What should you check before you cut?

Check the layout one last time, because a cut cannot be undone.

• All pieces: did you include every piece, such as the back piece?
• On the fold: is the front piece actually placed on the fold?
• Grain lines: are all arrows parallel to the selvedge?
• Nap: do all pieces face the same direction on napped or one-way fabric?

Teacher’s advice: cut only when you are sure.

Evaluation

1. Name the three directions of fabric and say which one stretches most.
2. What is nap, and what rule must you follow when cutting napped fabric?
3. List the three steps for preparing fabric before cutting.
4. Describe the lengthwise fold and say when you would use a crosswise fold.
5. State three rules to follow when cutting fabric.

Assignment

Describe how you would prepare a piece of 100% cotton fabric and pin a pattern on it before cutting. Explain why each step is needed.