Pattern Alteration – SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Third Term)

Pattern alteration is changing a paper pattern so that it fits the body of the person who will wear the garment.

Behavioural objectives

1. State why a bought pattern may need to be altered.
2. Make a pattern longer or shorter using the slash and spread method.
3. Adjust a pattern for the waist, hips, shoulders and bust.
4. Explain what a toile is and how to use it to test a pattern.

Why do we alter patterns?

We alter patterns because a bought pattern is made for an average body, and most people are not average.

• Ready-to-wear pattern: a bought pattern drawn to standard measurements for each size.
• Common changes: length, waist, hips, shoulders and bust.
• Purpose: a garment that fits well, feels comfortable and hangs neatly.

What is the golden rule of alteration?

Never cut the original “Master Pattern”; always trace a copy onto fresh paper and make the changes on the copy.

When should a pattern be altered?

• Height: the person is taller or shorter than the pattern.
• Bust: the bust is larger or smaller than the standard size.
• Hips: the waist fits but the hips are too tight.
• Shoulders: the shoulders are too broad or too narrow.

What do you need for pattern alteration?

You need simple tools for measuring, marking, cutting and joining paper.

• Tape measure: takes the body measurements to compare with the pattern.
• Tracing paper: used to copy the master pattern.
• Scrap paper and sticky tape: fill gaps and hold pieces in place.
• Ruler and hip curve: draw straight lines and smooth curves.
• Pencil and scissors: mark and cut the paper.
• Calico and chalk: used to make and mark the toile.

What are the common pattern alterations?

The common alterations are lengthening, shortening, and adjusting the hips, waist, shoulders and bust.

How do you make a pattern longer or shorter?

You make a pattern longer or shorter by the slash and spread method, the most common alteration.

• Slash: cut the pattern across.
• Spread: pull the pieces apart to add length.
• Where to cut: usually between the hip and the hem. Many patterns print a lengthen or shorten line.

How do you make the pattern longer?

1. Cut the pattern straight across, usually between the hip and the hem.
2. Pull the two pieces apart until you reach the length needed.
3. Tape a piece of scrap paper underneath to fill the gap.
4. Redraw the side lines to make them straight again.

How do you make the pattern shorter?

1. Draw two parallel lines across the pattern.
2. Fold the paper to bring the two lines together, which makes a pleat.
3. Tape the fold down.
4. Correct the side seams with a ruler.

How do you adjust the waist and hips?

You adjust the waist and hips by changing the side seams and the darts.

How do you increase the hips?

• Add width: add extra width to the side seams, shared equally between them.
• Use a hip curve: draw a new, wider curve from the waist to the hip, then blend it down to the hem.
• Use: a skirt that fits at the waist but is too tight at the hips.

How do you increase the waist?

• Move the side seam: shift the side seam outward at the top.
• Make the darts smaller: a smaller dart takes up less fabric, so more is left for the waist.

How do you adjust for shoulders and bust?

You adjust the shoulders and bust by changing the pattern at the shoulder line and the bust point.

• Broad shoulders: if the pattern is too narrow, the sleeves pull and the seams may tear. Slash the shoulder and move the piece out by 1 cm or 2 cm.
• Narrow shoulders: do the opposite. Overlap the pattern at the shoulder to make it smaller.
• Large bust: make a Full Bust Adjustment. Add a little length and width at the bust point so the front of the blouse does not ride up.

What is a toile and how do you use it?

A toile (also called a muslin) is a trial version of a garment made from cheap, plain fabric such as calico.

Why do designers make a toile?

• Fit test: it shows whether the altered pattern fits before the real fabric is cut.
• Saves money: mistakes are made on cheap calico, not on costly Ankara or silk.
• Shows faults: tension lines, which are wrinkles showing that the fabric is pulling, appear on the toile.

How do you use a toile?

1. Sew the altered pattern in the cheap fabric.
2. Put it on the person and check for tension lines.
3. If it fits well, cut the real fabric.
4. If it is still wrong, mark the changes on the toile with chalk, transfer them to the paper pattern and test again.

Teacher’s tip: a good dressmaker spends more time on the pattern so that the sewing is easy and the fit is right.

Evaluation

1. Why should you never cut the original “Master Pattern”?
2. List three situations in which a pattern needs to be altered.
3. Describe how to make a pattern shorter.
4. How can you increase the waist of a skirt pattern without moving the side seam?
5. What is a toile, and why do designers make one?

Assignment

Write out the four steps for making a pattern longer using the slash and spread method. Then list the four steps for testing an altered pattern with a toile.