Pattern Alteration SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

Why Alter Patterns?

If you buy a “Ready-to-Wear” pattern, it is made for an “average” body. But most people are not average!

The Golden Rule of Alteration: Never cut your original “Master Pattern.” Always trace a copy onto fresh paper and make your changes on the copy.

When to alter:

• When the person is taller or shorter than the pattern.
• When the person has a larger or smaller bust than the “standard” size.
• When the waist fits, but the hips are too tight.
• When the shoulders are too broad or too narrow.

Making It Longer or Shorter

This is the most common alteration. We use a method called “Slash and Spread.”

• To make it Longer: 1. Cut the pattern straight across (usually between the hip and the hem). 2. Pull the two pieces apart until you reach the desired length. 3. Tape a piece of scrap paper underneath to fill the gap. 4. Re-draw the side lines to make them straight again.
• To make it Shorter:
  1. Draw two parallel lines across the pattern.
  2. Fold the paper to bring the two lines together (creating a pleat).
  3. Tape it down.
  4. Fix the side seams with your ruler.

Adjusting the Waist and Hips

Sometimes a skirt fits perfectly at the waist but is like a “tight cage” at the hips. This is very common in Nigeria where many women have a “pear” shape.

• To Increase the Hips: * We add extra width to the Side Seams.
  1. Instead of a straight line, we use a Hip Curve ruler to draw a new, wider curve starting from the waist down to the hem.
• To Increase the Waist: * We move the side seam outward at the top.
  1. Or, we can make the Darts smaller. By sewing a smaller dart, we leave more fabric for the waist to breathe.

Dealing with Shoulders and Bust

The top part of the body is where most “fit” problems happen.

1. Broad Shoulders: If the pattern is too narrow, the sleeves will “pull” and might tear. We slash the shoulder of the pattern and move the piece out by 1cm or 2cm.
2. Narrow Shoulders: We do the opposite—we overlap the pattern at the shoulder to make it smaller.
3. Large Bust: We add a “Full Bust Adjustment.” This involves adding a bit of length and width right at the bust point so the front of the blouse doesn’t “ride up” when worn.

Testing Your Changes (The Toile)

Before you use your expensive Ankara or Silk, professional designers do a “Fit Test.”

• What is a Toile (or Muslin)? It is a “draft” version of the garment made from cheap, plain cotton fabric (like Calico).
• How to use it: 1. Sew the altered pattern using the cheap fabric. 2. Put it on the person and check for “tension lines” (wrinkles that show the fabric is pulling). 3. If it fits perfectly, you can now safely cut your expensive fabric! 4. If it’s still wrong, mark the changes on the fabric with chalk, move them back to the paper pattern, and try again.

Teacher’s Tip: Patience is the mark of a master. A beginner wants to sew immediately; a professional spends more time on the pattern to ensure the sewing is easy and the fit is perfect.