Garment Construction I – SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Third Term)

Skirt construction is the set order of work for making a skirt: prepare the pieces, stitch the darts, fix the zip, join the side seams, attach the waistband and sew the hem. This lesson covers three basic skirt shapes, the straight, gathered and flared skirts, and how to construct and finish each one.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

1. Name and describe the straight, gathered and flared skirts.
2. List the general order of work for making a skirt.
3. Explain how to make a gathered skirt.
4. Explain how to cut and hem a flared skirt.
5. State the purpose of interlining and of a hook and eye or button on the waistband.

What are the key terms in skirt construction?

Key terms are the words used to name the parts and steps of making a skirt.

• Dart: a stitched wedge-shaped fold that shapes flat fabric to fit the waist and hip.
• Seam: a line of stitching that joins two pieces of fabric.
• Hem: the folded and stitched bottom edge of a skirt.
• Waistband: a strip of fabric sewn to the top edge of the skirt to finish the waist.
• Zip: the opening that lets you put the skirt on and take it off.
• Interlining: a stiff layer ironed inside the waistband to give it firmness. It is also called interfacing.
• Bias: the diagonal direction of the fabric, which has the most stretch.
• Right sides facing: the printed or outer sides of two pieces placed together before sewing.

What are the three basic skirt shapes?

There are three basic skirt shapes: the straight skirt, the gathered skirt and the flared skirt.

The straight (pencil) skirt

• Shape: it follows the body closely from the hip to the knee.
• Fabric: it uses the least fabric of the three.
• Look: it gives a neat, formal appearance, suitable for office wear.
• Slit: it usually has a slit (vent) at the back so the wearer can walk comfortably.

The gathered skirt

• Shape: it is basically a large rectangle of fabric, bunched up at the waist to fit.
• Look: it is full and puffy, and it suits casual wear.

The flared (A-line) skirt

• Shape: it is narrow at the waist and wide at the hem.
• Look: it flows outward like a bell and has no bunches at the waist.

How do the three skirts compare?

What is the order of work for making a skirt?

The order of work (plan of work) is the fixed sequence of steps that saves you from unpicking stitches later.

1. Prepare the pieces: cut out the front and back pieces.
2. Stitch the darts: for a straight skirt, sew the waist darts first to create the shape.
3. Fix the zip: insert the zip into the back seam before joining the rest of the skirt. It is much easier on flat pieces.
4. Join the side seams: pin the front and back together, right sides facing, and sew.
5. Attach the waistband: sew the belt part to the top edge.
6. Sew the hem: fold and stitch the bottom edge.

How do you make a gathered skirt?

A gathered skirt is the easiest skirt for a beginner because it needs few pattern pieces.

1. Cut: cut fabric that is 2 to 3 times the width of your waist.
2. Sew gathering stitches: sew two rows of long stitches along the top edge.
3. Pull the threads: draw them up until the top edge matches your waist measurement.
4. Spread the gathers: move the folds along the threads so they are even and not all in one corner.
5. Attach the waistband: pin the gathered edge to the waistband and stitch.

• Fabric tip: thick fabric makes the waist look bulky, so use lightweight cotton for this style.

How do you make a flared skirt?

A flared skirt is a skirt cut wide at the hem so that it swings when you walk.

• Pattern shape: laid flat, the pattern looks like a triangle or a half-circle.
• Cutting on the bias: flared skirts are sometimes cut diagonally, which lets the fabric stretch and fall smoothly over the hips.
• Hem problem: the hem is a curve, so a thick, wide hem will pucker.
• Hem solution: use a very narrow hem, about 0.5 cm, for a clean finish.

How do you finish a skirt with a waistband and fastener?

The waistband is the strip that finishes the waist and holds the skirt in place, like the frame of a picture.

• Interlining: iron a piece of stiffener inside the waistband so it does not fold or roll when you sit down.
• Hook and eye or button: fix one on the waistband as well as the zip, so the zip is not under strain and does not break when you dance or walk.
• Final press: give the skirt a last press, with the seams opened out on the inside and the hem pressed flat.

What is the class project?

The class project is to make a straight skirt in calico.

• Stage 1: make a straight skirt from calico and practise the darts and the back zip.
• Stage 2: when you can do both well, make a flared skirt in colourful Ankara fabric.

Evaluation

1. Describe the straight, gathered and flared skirts.
2. List the six steps in the general order of work for making a skirt.
3. How much fabric width is needed for a gathered skirt, and how is it made to fit the waist?
4. Why should a flared skirt have a very narrow hem?
5. Why do we put a hook and eye or a button on the waistband as well as a zip?

Assignment

Write out the order of work for making a straight skirt. Give one reason why the zip is fixed before the side seams are sewn, and one reason for putting interlining in the waistband.