Fibres and Fabrics II – SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (First Term)

Fabric selection is choosing the right cloth for the person, the occasion and the weather. A designer asks who will wear it, where it will be worn and what the weather is like, then matches the fabric’s drape, durability, absorbency and elasticity to the garment, body type, colour and pattern.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• State the three questions to ask before buying fabric.
• Explain the terms drape, durability and absorbency.
• Recommend a suitable fabric for school uniforms, evening gowns, men’s suits, underwear and raincoats.
• Choose fabrics to suit slim, plus-sized and active customers.
• Describe the scrunch, light and rub tests for checking fabric in the market.

What should you ask before choosing fabric?

Before you buy fabric from the market, you must ask yourself three “Magic Questions”:

1. Who is wearing it? (A baby needs soft fabric; a labourer needs tough fabric.)
2. Where are they wearing it to? (A wedding? The gym? To sleep?)
3. What is the weather like? (Is it the hot sun of March or the cold Harmattan of December?)

Key terms

• Drape: How the fabric hangs or falls on the body. (Example: silk drapes beautifully; denim does not.)
• Durability: How long the fabric lasts before it gets thin or tears.
• Absorbency: How well the fabric “drinks” sweat.

Which fabric suits which garment?

Different events require different “looks”. The table shows the best choices for common garments.

How does body type affect fabric choice?

As a designer, you want your customer to look their best. Fabric choice can change how a person’s shape looks.

• For slim people: They can wear “stiff” or “bulky” fabrics like Organza, heavy Ankara, or Brocade. These fabrics add volume and make them look a bit fuller.
• For plus-sized people: It is better to use fabrics with a good “drape” that are not too thick. Chiffon, soft Crepe, or lightweight Cotton are great because they follow the body’s lines without adding extra “size”.
• For active people: If you are making sportswear, the fabric must have elasticity (stretch). Look for Spandex or Jersey.

How do colour and pattern affect fabric choice?

Selection depends on the “look” of the fabric as well as its “feel”.

1. Skin tone: Some colours make people look lively, while others make them look “washed out”. Generally, warm colours (yellow, red, orange) look great on dark skin, while cool colours (blue, green) look beautiful on lighter skin tones.
2. Pattern size:
   • Small patterns: Good for everyone, especially petite people.
   • Large patterns: Can be overwhelming on a small person but look very bold and “royal” on a tall, large person.
3. Occasion colours: In many parts of Nigeria, we choose colours based on the Aso-Ebi (family colour) for parties.

What tests can you do in the market?

When you go to the market to buy fabric for your practical projects, do these three tests:

• The “Scrunch” test: Take a corner of the fabric in your hand and squeeze it hard for 5 seconds. Let go. If it stays very wrinkled, it will be hard to maintain. If it bounces back, it’s a good choice for busy people.
• The “Light” test: Hold the fabric up to the light. If you can see right through it, it might be too thin and will need a “lining” (extra fabric inside).
• The “Rub” test: Rub two pieces of the fabric together. If small “balls” of fluff (pilling) start to form, the fabric is of low quality.

Evaluation

1. State the three “Magic Questions” to ask before buying fabric.
2. Define drape, durability and absorbency.
3. Name a suitable fabric for a raincoat and for underwear, and give a reason for each.
4. Which fabric qualities suit a plus-sized customer? Give two examples of such fabrics.
5. Describe how to do the scrunch test and say what the result tells you.

Assignment

Imagine you are making a dress for a 5-year-old’s birthday party. The party is outdoors in the afternoon. List three fabrics that would be perfect and two fabrics that would be a disaster, and give a reason for each.