Pattern Drafting I SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

What is a “Block” or Basic Pattern?

A Basic Block is a pattern that fits the body perfectly without any style, pockets, or ruffles. It is like a second skin. Once you have a basic block, you can change it into any design you want!

Tools you’ll need for drafting:

1. Brown Paper: Large sheets to draw your patterns on.
2. L-Square and Set Square: To make sure your lines are perfectly straight.
3. Hip Curve and French Curve: To draw the round parts like armholes and hips.
4. Tracing Wheel: To move lines from one paper to another.
5. A Sharp Pencil and Eraser: Accuracy is everything!

Drafting the Basic Bodice (Top)

The Bodice is the part of the garment that covers from your neck to your waist. Since the human body is symmetrical (the left side looks like the right side), we usually only draw half of the pattern.

Key Lines to Draw:

• The Center Line: A straight vertical line representing the middle of the chest or back.
• The Bust Line: A horizontal line where the chest is widest.
• The Armhole Curve: A “J” shaped curve where the sleeve will eventually be attached.
• The Neckline: A curve at the top for the head to go through.

Teacher’s Tip: Don’t forget the Darts! On the paper pattern, we draw a triangle at the waist. When this is sewn on fabric, it creates the shape needed for the bust and waist.

Drafting the Basic Skirt

The skirt block covers from the waist to the knee (or ankle).

1. The Waistline: This line is slightly curved, not perfectly straight, because the human waist isn’t a flat board.
2. The Hip Line: This is usually drawn 18cm to 22cm below the waist. This is the widest part of the pattern.
3. The Side Seam: This line curves out from the waist to the hip and then goes straight down to the hem.
4. The Hemline: The bottom edge of the skirt.

Remember: We always add “Ease” to a pattern. Ease is a little bit of extra space (about 2cm) so that the person can move, sit, and breathe while wearing the skirt.

Drafting the Basic Sleeve

The sleeve is often the trickiest part for students because it has to fit perfectly into the “Armhole” of the bodice.

• The Sleeve Head (Cap): This is the curved top of the sleeve. It looks like a small hill. If this curve is too high or too low, the person won’t be able to lift their arms easily.
• The Elbow Line: A mark to show where the arm bends.
• The Wrist/Hem Line: The bottom of the sleeve.

The Test: Once you finish drawing your sleeve, take a piece of string and measure the curve of the sleeve head. It should match the measurement of the armhole on your bodice pattern!

Pattern Symbols (The Language of Patterns)

When you look at a professional pattern, you will see special marks. You must learn to draw these on your paper so you don’t get confused:

• Place on Fold (⟷): This means you should fold your fabric and put this edge right on the fold. When you cut and open it, you get a full piece.
• Grain Line (↑): A long arrow that shows you which direction the fabric threads should go.
• Notches (T): Little “V” marks on the edge of the paper. These help you line up the front and back pieces correctly when sewing.
• Seam Allowance: The extra space (1.5cm) outside the “stitching line” where you will actually cut the fabric.

Class Activity: Today, we are going to practice drawing a “Miniature Block.” We will use a scale of 1:4 to draw a small skirt on an A4 paper before we try the life-sized version on brown paper!