Introduction to Embroidery – JSS3 Cultural & Creative Arts Lesson Note (Second Term)

Embroidery is the handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials by using a needle to apply thread or yarn.

Behavioural objectives

1. Define embroidery.
2. Name the basic embroidery stitches.
3. State where embroidery is commonly seen today.
4. Name the main categories of embroidery and give an example of each.
5. Explain what whitework is.

What materials and items are used in embroidery?

Embroidery uses fabric, a needle and thread or yarn, and it may also include beads, pearls, quills and sequins.

Basic tools and materials

• Fabric: the base cloth on which the design is worked, such as cotton or linen.
• Needle: carries the thread through the fabric to form stitches.
• Thread or yarn: available in a wide variety of colours.
• Embroidery hoop: a frame that holds the fabric tight while you stitch.
• Scissors: used to cut the thread neatly.
• Extra decorations: pearls, beads, quills and sequins.

Where is embroidery seen today?

• Headwear: caps and hats.
• Outer clothing: coats, denim and dresses.
• Shirts: dress shirts and golf shirts.
• Other items: blankets and stockings.

What are the basic embroidery stitches?

There are five basic embroidery stitches: chain stitch, buttonhole or blanket stitch, running stitch, satin stitch and cross stitch.

• Running stitch: a row of evenly spaced straight stitches, going in and out of the fabric.
• Chain stitch: a line of small loops linked together like a chain.
• Buttonhole or blanket stitch: a looped stitch, often worked along an edge of cloth.
• Satin stitch: close, straight stitches laid side by side to fill a shape.
• Cross stitch: two small diagonal stitches that cross to form an X.

These stitches remain the fundamental techniques of hand embroidery today.

How do you work a running stitch?

1. Thread the needle and tie a knot at the end of the thread.
2. Push the needle up through the fabric from the back at the starting point.
3. Push the needle down through the fabric a short distance ahead.
4. Bring the needle up again, the same distance further along the line.
5. Repeat to the end of the line, keeping the stitches even in length.
6. Fasten the thread at the back of the fabric.

Where did embroidery come from?

Embroidery developed from sewing, because the decorative possibilities of sewing gave rise to the art.

• Origin: the work of tailoring, patching, mending and reinforcing cloth led to sewing techniques.
• Stable techniques: embroidery shows no clear change from a primitive stage to a later, more refined stage.
• Early skill: early works often show a high standard of craftsmanship, rarely reached in later times.
• Worldwide: embroidery has been found in many parts of the world, and several early examples exist.
• China: works have been dated to the Warring States period (5th to 3rd century BC).
• Sweden: a garment from the Migration period (roughly 300 to 700 AD) has trimming edges reinforced with running stitch, back stitch, stem stitch, tailor’s buttonhole stitch and whip-stitching.
• Uncertain purpose: it is not clear whether the Swedish work only reinforced the seams or was decorative embroidery.

How is embroidery classified?

There are three main categories of embroidery: free or surface embroidery, counted embroidery, and needlepoint or canvas work.

• Basis of classification: how far the design takes account of the base material.
• Also considered: the relationship of stitch placement to the fabric.

What is free or surface embroidery?

Free or surface embroidery is embroidery in which designs are applied without regard to the weave of the underlying fabric.

• Examples: crewel, and traditional Chinese and Japanese embroidery.

What is counted-thread embroidery?

Counted-thread embroidery is embroidery in which stitches are made over a set number of threads in the foundation fabric.

• Best fabric: an even-weave foundation, such as embroidery canvas, aida cloth, or specially woven cotton and linen.
• Examples: cross-stitch and some forms of blackwork embroidery.

What is needlepoint or canvas work?

Needlepoint or canvas work is embroidery in which threads are stitched through a fabric mesh to form a dense pattern.

• Technique: similar to counted thread work.
• Coverage: the pattern completely covers the foundation fabric.
• Examples: bargello and Berlin wool work.

How do the three categories compare?

What is whitework?

Whitework is embroidery worked with white thread on white linen or cotton.

• Classification: it is grouped by similarity of appearance, not by how it is stitched.
• Drawn thread work and cutwork: the foundation fabric is deformed or cut away to make holes, which are then decorated with embroidery.
• Thread colour: often the same colour as the foundation fabric.
• Types: whitework can be either counted or free.

Examples of whitework

• Hardanger embroidery: a counted embroidery, with designs that are often geometric.
• Broderie anglaise: similar to free embroidery, with floral or abstract designs that do not depend on the fabric weave.

Evaluation

1. Define embroidery.
2. List the five basic embroidery stitches named in this lesson.
3. Name the three main categories of embroidery.
4. What is whitework?
5. Give one example each of free embroidery and counted-thread embroidery.

Assignment

1. List five items on which embroidery is commonly seen today.
2. State the difference between free or surface embroidery and counted-thread embroidery, with one example of each.