Advanced Makeup II – SS2 Beauty & Cosmetology Lesson Note (First Term)

Special effects (SFX) makeup changes the structure of a person’s face, using light, shadow, texture, and materials such as latex, wax and prosthetics, to create a different character, such as an old man, a forest spirit or a warrior. It is used in movies, plays and festivals, and the client’s skin must be checked for sensitivity first.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• explain what special effects (SFX) makeup is and why safety comes first;
• describe how to make a young face look old;
• list the materials used for fantasy makeup;
• name four SFX tools and state the use of each;
• apply and remove SFX pieces safely.

What is special effects (SFX) makeup?

In our previous lessons, we focused on making people look “beautiful.” In SFX, we focus on making people look different. Whether it is for a movie, a play or a festival, SFX is about changing the structure of the face.

• The illusion: We use light, shadow and texture to trick the eye.
• The story: Before you start, ask: What happened to this character? Are they a tired old man? An angry forest spirit? A warrior?
• Safety first: Since SFX uses “glues” and “latex,” you must always check if the client has sensitive skin.

How do you make a young face look old?

Ageing means drawing lines and also understanding where the skin “collapses” over time.

• Where the lines go: Ask your client to scrunch their face, smile big and frown. Follow those natural folds with a dark brown pencil or shadow.
• Highlighting the “puff”: Right next to your dark “wrinkle” line, draw a light line with a cream highlighter. This makes the wrinkle look deep.
• Sun spots and veins: Use a stipple sponge (a rough, holey sponge) to dab little brown and red dots. This mimics the uneven skin tone of an elderly person.
• Hollowing out: Use a cool-toned shadow to “hollow out” the temples and the area under the cheekbones.

What is fantasy makeup?

Fantasy makeup is used for creatures and spirits. It does not follow the rules of “human” looks, so your imagination has more room.

• Changing the shape: We use prosthetics (fake pieces like elf ears or horns) or wax to change the shape of the nose or forehead.
• Colour schemes: Use colours not found in human skin: teals, purples, metallics or neon greens.
• Adding texture: You can glue on “found objects” like sequins, dried leaves or even fish scales (made of plastic) to make the character look like they belong in a forest or the ocean.

Stylist tip: Use a “glue stick” (the purple kind kids use) to flatten the eyebrows before doing a fantasy look. This gives you a smooth canvas to draw new, magical eyebrows higher up.

What tools are used for SFX?

You cannot do SFX with just a regular eyeshadow palette. You need a “Kit of Curiosities.”

1. Liquid latex: A milky liquid that dries into a rubbery skin. Great for making fake peeling skin or textures.
2. Spirit gum: The “super glue” of the makeup world. Used for sticking on ears, beards or horns.
3. Scar wax: A thick, skin-coloured wax you can mould with your fingers to create fake bumps, moles or deep scars.
4. Stipple sponge: A black, rough sponge used to create “broken capillaries” or stubble.

How do you apply and remove SFX makeup?

SFX makeup can be very “heavy” on the skin. You must be careful during application and even more careful during removal.

• Application: Always work in thin layers. If you put too much latex or wax on at once, it will fall off the face.
• The “blend”: Use a bit of oil or Vaseline to smooth the edges of your fake wax pieces so they disappear into the real skin.
• Removal: Never pull or rip off SFX pieces. You could pull off the client’s real skin or hair. Use a spirit gum remover or a heavy oil-based cleanser to melt the glue slowly.
• Clean the skin: After the “magic” is gone, wash the client’s face with a gentle soap and apply moisturiser to calm the skin.

Classroom practical activity

1. The smile test: Pair up and have your partner smile. Use a soft pencil to trace their “laugh lines.”
2. Texture practice: Use a stipple sponge and red paint to create “sunburn” texture on the back of your hand.
3. The wax merge: Try to make a small “mole” out of wax and blend the edges so it looks like it grew there.

Evaluation

1. What is the difference between ordinary makeup and SFX makeup?
2. Why do you draw a light line next to a dark wrinkle line when ageing a face?
3. State the use of liquid latex, spirit gum and scar wax.
4. Why should SFX pieces never be pulled off the face, and how should they be removed?

Assignment

In your notebook, list the steps you would follow to make a young face look old. Then describe how you would remove a piece stuck on with spirit gum and care for the client’s skin afterwards.