Hair Colouring SS2 Beauty & Cosmetology Lesson Note

Introduction to Hair Colouring

Hair colouring is the process of adding or removing pigment from the hair strand. It’s one of the most popular services in a salon because it can hide gray hair, change a person’s look, or simply express their personality.

• The Main Goal: To change the color while keeping the hair healthy and shiny.
• Melanin: This is the natural pigment inside the hair. Dark hair has a lot of it; light hair has less. When we color hair, we are either adding new pigment or “lifting” (removing) the natural melanin.

Stylist’s Secret: Never promise a client an exact color from a box. Hair color is like painting on a colored canvas—the result depends on the hair’s starting color!

The Four Types of Hair Dyes

Not every “dye” works the same way. As a stylist, you must choose the right one based on how long the client wants the color to last.

1. Temporary Color (The “Party” Color):
   1. How it works: It just coats the outside of the hair. It doesn’t go inside.
   2. Longevity: Washes out in one shampoo. Great for weekend events or hair chalks.
2. Semi-Permanent Color:
   1. How it works: It stains the outer layer (cuticle). It doesn’t use harsh chemicals like ammonia.
   2. Longevity: Lasts about 4 to 8 washes. It’s great for adding shine or “refreshing” a faded color.
3. Demi-Permanent Color:
   1. How it works: It uses a low-volume developer to push color slightly into the hair. It cannot “lighten” hair, only make it darker or change the tone.
   2. Longevity: Lasts 12 to 24 washes.
4. Permanent Color:
   1. How it works: This is the “heavy lifter.” It uses ammonia and a developer to open the hair and swap out the natural color for a new one.
   2. Longevity: It stays until the hair grows out or is cut off.

Tools and Application Methods

To get a professional look, you need the right tools and a steady hand.

Essential Tools:

• Mixing bowl (Plastic only! Metal can react with the dye).
• Tint brushes (For precise application).
• Sectioning clips (To keep the work organized).
• Tail comb (For parting).

Common Application Methods:

• The “Virgin” Application: When a client has never colored their hair before. You usually start at the mid-lengths and ends because the heat from the scalp makes the roots process faster.
• Root Touch-up: Applying color only to the “new growth” near the scalp.
• Foiling (Highlighting): Weaving out small strands of hair and wrapping them in foil to keep the color separate from the rest of the hair.
• Balayage: A French word meaning “to sweep.” You hand-paint the color onto the hair for a natural, sun-kissed look.

Safety First (The Stylist’s Law)

Chemicals used in hair dye can be dangerous if they are not respected. Safety is what separates a professional from an amateur.

1. The Patch Test (Allergy Test): You must apply a tiny bit of the dye behind the ear or inside the elbow 24 to 48 hours before the service. If the skin gets red, itchy, or bumpy, do not use that dye!
2. The Strand Test: Take a small piece of hair from the back and apply the dye. This tells you exactly how the color will look and if the hair is strong enough to handle it.
3. Protect the Skin: Always apply “barrier cream” (like petroleum jelly) around the hairline and ears so you don’t dye the client’s skin.
4. Ventilation: Some dyes have strong fumes. Make sure your workspace has fresh air flowing.

After-Care and Maintenance

Once the color is done, the work isn’t over. Colored hair needs extra love.

• Wait to Wash: Tell your client to wait 48 hours before washing their hair at home. This gives the color time to “settle.”
• Cool Water: Hot water opens the hair cuticle and lets the color escape. Cool water keeps the color locked in.
• Sulfate-Free Shampoo: Harsh soaps in regular shampoo will strip the color quickly.
• Deep Conditioning: Chemical coloring can make hair dry. A weekly hair mask is a must to keep that “salon shine.”

Lab & Review Questions

1. Why shouldn’t we use a metal bowl when mixing hair dye?
2. If a client wants to hide gray hair permanently, which type of dye should you use?
3. Explain why we apply color to the “mid-lengths” first during a virgin application.