Advanced Hair Styling II SS2 Beauty & Cosmetology Lesson Note

The Science of the “Shape Shift“

Before we touch a chemical, we have to understand what we are doing to the hair. Every strand of hair has “bonds” (think of them as tiny internal ladders) that hold its shape—whether curly or straight.

• The Process: Chemical texturizing works by breaking these “ladders” down, moving them into a new position, and then “locking” them back together.
• The Risk: If you leave the “ladders” broken for too long, the hair falls apart (breakage).
• Porosity Check: Always feel the hair first. If it’s very dry or damaged, it’s like a sponge—it will soak up the chemical too fast and could burn.

Hair Relaxing (Going Straight)

Relaxing is the most common chemical service in many salons. It’s used to “relax” the natural curl pattern of the hair.

The Two Main Types:

1. Lye Relaxers (Sodium Hydroxide): These work very fast and are very effective, but they can be harsh on the scalp. Usually for professional use only.
2. No-Lye Relaxers (Calcium Hydroxide): Often sold in box kits. They are gentler on the scalp but can make the hair feel a bit dry over time.

Steps for Success:

• Base the Scalp: Always apply petroleum jelly or “base cream” to the hairline and scalp to prevent chemical burns.
• Don’t Over-process: Never apply new relaxer to hair that has already been relaxed. Only touch the “new growth.”

Perming (Adding the Curl)

Perming is the opposite of relaxing. We take straight hair and give it permanent waves or curls using “perm rods.”

How it works:

1. Softening: We apply a waving lotion to break the hair bonds while the hair is wrapped around a rod.
2. Setting: We apply a Neutralizer. This is the most important step—it’s the “glue” that hardens the hair into its new curly shape.

Teacher’s Note: If you don’t rinse the waving lotion out completely before neutralizing, the hair will smell like rotten eggs and the curl won’t last!

Hair Rebonding (The “Glass” Look)

Rebonding is an advanced technique, popular for getting that “pin-straight,” shiny, glass-like finish. It is a mix of chemical treatment and high-heat styling.

• The Difference: Unlike a regular relaxer, rebonding uses a powerful cream followed by a very precise flat-ironing session at high temperatures.
• The Time: This is a long process! It can take 4 to 6 hours depending on the hair length.
• The 72-Hour Rule: After rebonding, the client must not wash their hair, tuck it behind their ears, or use a hair tie for 3 days. The hair is still “settling” into its new shape.

Safety and “First Aid” for Hair

As a stylist, you are handling strong chemicals. You must be responsible.

• The Patch Test: Apply a tiny bit of the chemical behind the ear 24 hours before the service to make sure the client isn’t allergic.
• The Strand Test: Test the chemical on one small piece of hair at the back of the head to see how long it takes to process.
• Neutralizing Shampoo: When washing out a relaxer, use a shampoo with a “color indicator.” If the suds are pink, there is still chemical in the hair. If the suds are white, the hair is safe!

Classroom Discussion / Lab Prep

1. Why shouldn’t we scratch a client’s scalp before a relaxer service? (Answer: It creates tiny cuts that will burn!)
2. What happens if you use a high-heat flat iron on hair that still has “softening” chemicals in it?
3. Why is the Neutralizer called the “most important” step in perming?