Cosmetic Product Formulation II – SS2 Beauty & Cosmetology Lesson Note (First Term)

A cosmetic cream is an emulsion, a mixture of oil and water held together by an emulsifier such as emulsifying wax. To make it, you heat a water phase and an oil phase, blend them, and add scent and preservatives when the cream is cool. This lesson also covers perfume notes, types of perfume, and hygiene.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• define an emulsion and state the role of the emulsifier;
• name the water phase and oil phase ingredients of a cream;
• describe the steps of making a cream;
• explain top, heart and base notes with examples;
• distinguish Parfum, Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette and body splash;
• state the hygiene and preservation rules for making and using creams.

What is an emulsion?

Have you ever tried to mix oil and water in a cup? They always separate. But a skin cream is a mixture of oil and water that stays together. This mixture is called an emulsion.

What does the emulsifier do?

To make oil and water stay together, we need an “Emulsifying Wax”. This ingredient acts as a bridge that connects the oil molecules to the water molecules.

What are the two phases of a cream?

1. Water phase: This includes distilled water, rose water, or aloe vera juice.
2. Oil phase: This includes your oils (almond, coconut) and your butters (shea, cocoa).

How is a cream made?

Making cream is like making a very delicate sauce. You have to be patient with the temperature.

1. The heat: Heat the water phase and the oil phase in two separate double boilers until they reach the same temperature (usually around 70°C).
2. The blend: Slowly pour the oil into the water while stirring constantly. As it cools, it will start to thicken into a white, creamy lotion.
3. The “cool down” phase: Add your scents (essential oils) and preservatives only when the cream is cool. If you add them while it is hot, the scent will evaporate.

What are perfume notes?

A good perfume does not smell like one thing only. Its smell changes over time. We call this the Fragrance Pyramid.

• Top notes (the first impression): These are the scents you smell immediately, like lemon, lime or mint. They disappear after about 15 minutes.
• Heart notes (the soul): These appear after the top notes fade. They are usually floral or spicy scents like rose, lavender or cinnamon.
• Base notes (the anchor): These are heavy scents that stay on the skin for hours, like vanilla, sandalwood or musk.

What are the types of perfume?

Not all “sprays” are the same. The difference is how much perfume oil is mixed with alcohol.

• Parfum: The strongest. It has a lot of oil and very little alcohol. It lasts all day.
• Eau de Parfum (EDP): The most common. It lasts about 5 to 8 hours.
• Eau de Toilette (EDT): Lighter and fresher. It is good for daily wear in hot weather.
• Body splash: Mostly water and alcohol with just a tiny bit of scent.

How do we keep cosmetic products hygienic?

Because creams contain water, bacteria grow in them easily. In this topic, we learn how to keep our products safe for the consumer.

• Distilled water only: Never use tap water for creams. Tap water has minerals and bacteria that will make your cream spoil in three days.
• Preservatives: Since we want our products to last on a shelf, we use a tiny amount of a broad-spectrum preservative.
• The “spatula” rule: Teach your clients to use a clean spatula or a pump bottle instead of putting their fingers into a jar of cream. This keeps the product clean.

Classroom practical and discussion

1. The smell test: Smell three different oils. Can you identify which one is a top note and which is a base note?
2. Observation: Watch what happens to the oil and water as we add the emulsifying wax. When does the colour change to white?

Safety first: Why do we wait for the cream to cool down before adding the scent?

Evaluation

1. What is an emulsion, and what is the job of emulsifying wax?
2. List two ingredients each for the water phase and the oil phase.
3. Why must we use distilled water and not tap water for creams?
4. Give one example each of a top note, a heart note and a base note.
5. How does Eau de Parfum differ from a body splash?

Assignment

Describe the three steps of making a cream. Then list the three groups of perfume notes, with two examples of each.