Garment Construction II – The Anatomy of a Shirt SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

The Anatomy of a Shirt

Before we start sewing, let’s look at the pieces we have on our table. A basic shirt isn’t just one big bag; it is made of several important parts:

1. The Front: This is usually two pieces if the shirt opens at the front (like a button-down), or one piece if it’s a “pull-over.”
2. The Back: Usually one solid piece. Sometimes it has a “Yoke”—that’s the extra piece of fabric across the shoulders for strength.
3. The Sleeves: Two pieces that give our arms room to move.
4. The Collar or Facing: The part that finishes the neck.
5. The Cuffs: The bands at the bottom of the sleeves.

The Order of Work (The Sewing Map)

In a workshop, we follow a specific order so the shirt comes out neat. If you sew the sides before the shoulders, you will find it very hard to finish the neck!

The Professional Order:

1. Darts: Sew any bust or waist darts on the front and back pieces first.
2. The Shoulders: Join the front and back at the shoulders. This is the “bridge” of the garment.
3. The Neckline: Finish the neck with a facing or attach the collar.
4. The Sleeves: It is much easier to attach the sleeves while the shirt is still “flat” (before the side seams are sewn).
5. Side Seams: Sew one long line from the armpit down to the waist.
6. Hems and Fasteners: Finish the bottom and add your buttons.

Attaching the Sleeves

This is often the part where students get nervous. The sleeve “head” is a curve, and the armhole is also a curve.

• Matching Notches: Look for the little “V” snips we made on our pattern. The notch on the sleeve must match the notch on the front of the shirt.
• The “Ease” Secret: The sleeve curve is usually a tiny bit bigger than the armhole. We use a light gathering stitch to “ease” it in so it fits perfectly without ruffles.
• Setting it in: Pin the top of the sleeve to the shoulder seam first, then the ends, then fill in the middle.

Finishing the Neck (Facings)

If you are making a simple blouse without a collar, you use a Facing. This is a piece of fabric cut in the exact shape of the neck.

1. Right Sides Together: Place the facing on the neck of the shirt, pretty sides touching.
2. Sew and Snip: Sew around the curve. Now, here is the secret: take your scissors and make small snips into the seam allowance (but don’t cut your stitches!). This allows the curve to turn inside out without “pulling.”
3. Understitching: Sew a line on the facing itself to keep it from “peeking” out when you wear the blouse.

Buttons and Buttonholes

The final step is the “Engine Room”—the fasteners.

• The Rule of Overlap: In a front-opening shirt, the right side usually overlaps the left side for ladies, and the left over the right for men.
• Marking: Put on the blouse and use pins to mark exactly where your bust is. You must have a button right there so the shirt doesn’t “gape” open when you move.
• Machine vs. Hand: Most of our machines have a “Buttonhole Stitch.” Practice on a scrap of fabric first! If you mess up a buttonhole on your finished shirt, it is very hard to fix.

Teacher’s Practical Advice: Always check the length of your blouse before you do the final hem. Try it on and tuck it into your skirt or trousers. Is it long enough to stay tucked in, or too long that it looks bulky? Adjust now before you sew!