Garment Construction I SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

The Three Basic Shapes

Before we pick up the needle, let’s look at the three styles we are going to master. Each one uses a different amount of fabric and gives a different look.

1. The Straight (Pencil) Skirt: This follows the body closely from the hip to the knee. It’s professional and uses the least amount of fabric. It usually needs a “slit” at the back so you can walk comfortably.
2. The Gathered Skirt: This is basically a big rectangle of fabric. We bunch it up at the waist to fit. It’s very “puffy” and great for casual wear.
3. The Flared (A-Line) Skirt: This is narrow at the waist and wide at the bottom. It doesn’t have the “bunches” of a gathered skirt; it just flows outward like a bell.

Construction Steps (The Order of Work)

In sewing, you don’t just sew bits together randomly. You must follow a “Plan of Work” so you don’t have to loose your stitches later!

The General Order:

1. Prepare the Pieces: Cut out your front and back pieces.
2. Stitch the Darts: If you are making a straight skirt, sew your waist darts first to create the shape.
3. The Zip (Opening): It is much easier to fix the zipper into the back seam before you sew the rest of the skirt together.
4. Join Side Seams: Pin the front and back together (Right Sides facing!) and sew.
5. The Waistband: Attach the belt part to the top.
6. The Hem: Fold and sew the bottom edge.

Making the Gathered Skirt

This is the easiest skirt for a beginner because it doesn’t need many pattern pieces.

• Cutting: You need a piece of fabric that is 2 to 3 times the width of your waist.
• The “Magic” Step: Sew two rows of long stitches at the top edge. Pull the threads until the fabric “shrinks” to the exact size of your waist.
• Evenness: Spend time moving the ruffles around so they are not all in one corner.
• Tip: If the fabric is very thick, gathered skirts can make your waist look very large. Use lightweight cotton for this style.

The Flared Skirt (The “Circle” Method)

A flared skirt is beautiful because it “swings” when you walk.

• The Shape: When you lay a flared skirt pattern flat on the floor, it looks like a triangle or even a half-circle.
• Cutting on the Bias: Sometimes we cut flared skirts “on the bias” (diagonally). This makes the fabric stretch and fall very smoothly over the hips.
• The Hem Challenge: Because the bottom of a flared skirt is a curve, you cannot make a thick, wide hem. If you do, the fabric will “pucker.” Use a very narrow hem (about 0.5cm) for a clean look.

Finishing Touches (The Waistband & Fastener)

The waistband is like the “frame” of a picture. It holds everything together.

• Interlining: Inside the waistband, we usually iron on a piece of “Stiffener” (interlining). This prevents the waistband from folding or “rolling” when you sit down.
• The Fastener: A zip is great, but you also need a Hook and Eye or a Button on the waistband itself. This takes the pressure off the zipper so it doesn’t break while you are dancing or walking.
• Final Press: Give your skirt a “Master Press.” Iron the seams open on the inside and press the hem flat.

Class Project: We are going to start by making a Straight Skirt using calico. Once you master the darts and the back zip, you can try a Flared skirt with your own colorful Ankara fabric!