Comprehensive Revision I SS3 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

The Basics of Fabric and Tools

Before you can build a house, you need to know your bricks. In tailoring, your “bricks” are your fabrics and your tools.

1. Fabric Knowledge (The “Hand” of the Cloth)

• Natural Fibers: Cotton, Silk, Wool. They “breathe” well but wrinkle easily.
• Synthetic Fibers: Polyester, Nylon. They are strong and don’t wrinkle, but they can be hot and “sweaty” to wear.
• Blends: A mix of both (like Polycotton). These are the best for school uniforms because they are strong and easy to wash.

2. Tool Identification (The “Must-Knows”)

• Pinking Shears: Not for cutting patterns! They are for finishing edges so they don’t fray.
• Tracing Wheel & Carbon Paper: Used to move markings from your paper pattern to your fabric.
• Thimble: It’s not just for old people; it protects your finger when hand-sewing thick fabrics like denim.

Garment Construction (The “Joints”)

Construction is simply how we join pieces of flat cloth to fit a curvy human body.

1. Seams (The Glue)

• Plain Seam: The most basic. Used for almost everything.
• French Seam: A “seam inside a seam.” Perfect for thin fabrics (chiffon/lace) because it hides the messy raw edges.
• Flat-felled Seam: Very strong. You see this on the side of your jeans or on men’s “Senator” shirts.

2. Managing Fullness

• Darts: Used to make a flat cloth fit the bust or waist. Always sew from the wide part to the point!
• Pleats: Folds of fabric. They must be ironed very sharp to look professional.
• Gathers: Used for “puffy” sleeves or full skirts.

Necklines and Sleeves (The “Finish”)

A garment is often judged by how the neck and the sleeves look. These are “high-mark” areas in the theory exam.

1. Facings A facing is a piece of fabric used to finish a raw edge.

• Rule: Always “clip” your curves. If you don’t snip the seam allowance, the neckline will “jump up” and look tight.
• Understitching: This is the row of stitches that holds the facing inside so it doesn’t “peek out” to the front.

2. Sleeves

• Set-in Sleeve: The most common. It must be “eased” into the armhole so there are no puckers at the shoulder.
• Raglan Sleeve: The sleeve extends all the way to the neckline (common in sportswear).

The Business of Fashion (The “Kobo” Side)

Modern exams don’t just ask about sewing; they ask about Money and Customers.

1. Pricing your Work If you only charge for the fabric, you will go hungry! Your price must include:

• Direct Costs: Fabric, thread, zip, buttons.
• Overheads: Shop rent, fuel for the generator, transport to the market.
• Labor: Your time and your skill.

2. Customer Relations

• The Order Book: Always record measurements, style, and the “Date of Delivery.”
• Honesty: If you can’t finish a dress by Friday, don’t tell the customer it will be ready on Thursday.

Exam “Troubleshooting” (The “Why” Questions)

The theory paper loves to ask “Why is this happening?” Here are the common answers:

• Why is the machine skipping stitches? The needle is blunt, bent, or put in the wrong way.
• Why is the fabric puckering (gathering) at the seam? Your tension is too tight or your needle is too thick for the fabric.
• Why is the thread breaking? The machine is threaded wrong, or the thread is poor quality.

Final Revision Tip: When answering theory questions, don’t write long stories. Use bullet points. Use simple diagrams. The examiner has thousands of papers to mark; make yours easy to read and easy to give marks to!