Practical Project – JSS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

The JSS2 practical project is a garment you make from start to finish, either a simple gown or a native attire, using all the skills learned this term.

Behavioural objectives

1. Choose between a simple gown and a native attire and give reasons for the choice.
2. List the materials needed for the project.
3. Prepare, fold, mark and cut fabric using the correct seam and hem allowances.
4. Arrange the stages of construction in the correct sewing order.
5. Finish a garment neatly and check it with an evaluation checklist.

What choices do you have for the practical project?

There are two choices: a simple gown (English style) or a native attire.

• Simple gown: an English-style dress that has darts and a zipper at the back.
• Native attire: a simple Buba and Iro, or a straight Ankara gown.

The project combines taking measurements, drafting patterns, cutting, joining and finishing.

What materials do you need for the project?

You need fabric, matching thread, a fastening and a stiffening material.

• Fabric: 3 to 4 yards of Ankara or Guinea brocade.
• Why cotton: cotton fabrics do not slip while sewing.
• Matching thread: buy two reels so you do not run out.
• Zippers or buttons: choose according to your design.
• Interfacing (interlining): makes the neckline or waistband stiff and neat.
• Tailor’s chalk: marks the seam and hem allowances on the fabric.

What are the key terms in the project?

These terms are used at every stage of the project.

• Dart: a stitched fold that shapes flat fabric to fit the body.
• Seam allowance: extra fabric beyond the stitching line. We use 2 cm.
• Hem allowance: extra fabric at the bottom that is folded up to make the hem.
• Facing: a shaped piece of fabric sewn inside the neckline to finish it.
• Bias binding: a strip of fabric cut on the slant, used to finish raw edges such as the neckline.
• Overcasting: hand stitches over a raw edge to stop it fraying.
• Blind stitch: a hand hemming stitch that shows no thread on the outside.

How do you set up and cut the fabric?

Cutting is done by preparing the fabric, placing the pattern, marking allowances and cutting carefully.

An adult gown or native dress uses a lot of fabric, so keep your workspace very tidy.

Steps for setting up and cutting

1. Prepare the fabric: if the Ankara is starchy and stiff, sprinkle it lightly with water and iron it flat. This helps the size stay the same after the first wash.
2. Fold the fabric: fold it in two with the right sides facing inside.
3. Place the front pattern on the fold: when cut, this gives one wide piece for the chest.
4. Place the back pattern pieces away from the fold: this leaves space for the zipper or opening.
5. Mark the seam allowance: use tailor’s chalk to mark 2 cm.
6. Mark the hem allowance: for native wear, use a wide hem of about 4 cm.
7. Cut carefully: keep your spare hand flat on the fabric while the scissors move.

What is the correct sewing order?

The sewing order is darts, shoulders and neckline, side seams and sleeves, then the zipper.

Tailoring is like building a house. If the order is wrong, the roof will not fit the walls.

Step 1: Darts

• Sew the darts before joining any other part.
• Darts make the flat fabric curve to fit the body.
• Iron the darts towards the centre of the dress.

Step 2: Shoulder and neckline

• Join the shoulders.
• Finish the neckline with a facing or bias binding.
• Do the neck now, because it is easier than when the whole dress is finished and heavy.

Step 3: Side seams and sleeves

• Join the sides and leave the zipper space open at the back.
• Attach the sleeves.
• Place the right side of the sleeve against the right side of the dress before you sew.

Step 4: Zipper or openings

• Fix the zipper at the back of a gown.
• A native Buba may not need a zipper.
• For a Buba, neaten the side openings (slits).

How do you finish the garment?

Finishing means neatening the inside, hemming and pressing so the work looks neat enough to sell in a shop.

1. Neaten the inside: without an overlocking machine, use a zigzag stitch or hand overcasting to stop the Ankara fraying.
2. Hem the bottom: fold up the hem and sew it by hand with a blind stitch.
3. Press the outfit: iron the whole garment and use a little steam on the seams. This sets the stitches and gives a professional look.
4. Trim the threads: cut off all hanging threads.

What should you check on the finished garment?

Use this checklist to judge your garment before showing it.

• Fit: does the dress fit comfortably?
• Neckline: is it smooth and not bumpy?
• Zipper: is it hidden and straight?
• Threads: have all hanging threads been trimmed?

What is the class activity?

The class holds a mini fashion show to display the finished garments.

• Display: wear your garment or hang it up for the teacher and classmates to see.
• Talk: explain one challenge you had, such as fixing the zipper or matching the patterns.
• Solution: say how you solved the challenge.

Evaluation

1. Name two things a gown helps you practise and two things a native attire helps you practise.
2. Why is the front pattern piece placed on the fold?
3. State the seam allowance used in this project and the hem allowance for native wear.
4. Arrange in order: zipper, darts, sleeves, neckline, side seams.
5. What is a blind stitch used for?

Assignment

Write the sewing order for your chosen project in four numbered steps. Then write one challenge you may meet and how you would solve it.