Pattern Drafting – JSS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (First Term)

Pattern drafting is the process of drawing the plan of a garment on paper, using body measurements, before the fabric is cut.

Behavioural objectives

1. Define pattern drafting and state three reasons for using paper patterns.
2. List the tools used for drafting and state the use of each.
3. Name the key parts of a bodice, a sleeve and a skirt pattern.
4. State the body measurements needed to draft a bodice, a sleeve and a skirt.
5. Explain why a sleeve cap must match the bodice armhole.

What is pattern drafting?

Pattern drafting is the drawing of a garment’s shapes on pattern paper so that the fabric is cut correctly.

• Simple comparison: a builder draws a plan before laying bricks, and a tailor drafts a pattern before cutting cloth.
• Pattern: the paper shape used as a guide when cutting the fabric.
• Draft: to draw the pattern for the first time from measurements.

Why do we use paper patterns?

We use paper patterns to avoid mistakes, save time and get a better fit.

• To avoid mistakes: it is cheaper to make an error on brown paper than on expensive fabric.
• To save time: a good pattern can be used many times to make different clothes.
• For a better fit: the pattern is based on exact body measurements such as bust, waist and hip.

What tools are used for pattern drafting?

The main drafting tools are pattern paper, measuring tape, pencil and eraser, and rulers.

1. Brown paper (pattern paper): used to draw the shapes.
2. Measuring tape: used to take body sizes.
3. Pencil and eraser: used to draw lines and correct errors, since drafting involves corrections.
4. Rulers: long straight rulers for straight lines, and curve rulers for armholes and necklines.

What body measurements are needed?

Body measurements are the sizes taken round or along the body to draft a pattern that fits.

What is a basic bodice block?

The bodice is the part of a garment that covers the body from the neck and shoulders down to the waist.

• Half pattern: only half of the front and half of the back are drawn.
• Reason: the body is symmetrical, so the left side is like the right side.

What are the key parts of a bodice pattern?

• Neckline: a curve for the place where the neck goes.
• Shoulder slant: the shoulder line slopes down a little and is not perfectly straight.
• Armhole: the “C” shaped curve where the sleeve is attached.
• Darts: small V-shaped triangles that shape the fabric to the curves of the body, so the garment does not look like a flat bag.

What is a basic sleeve pattern?

A sleeve pattern is the shape that covers the arm and fits into the bodice armhole.

• Difficulty: a sleeve is harder to draft because it must fit the armhole exactly.

What are the main parts of a sleeve pattern?

1. Bicep line: marks the widest part of the upper arm.
2. Sleeve cap: the curved “hill” at the top of the sleeve.
3. Sleeve length line: measured down to the elbow, wrist or other chosen length for a short or long sleeve.

Why must the sleeve cap match the armhole?

• Cap too high or too low: the wearer cannot lift the arms easily.
• Matching rule: the sleeve curve must fit the measurement of the bodice armhole.
• Check: measure the armhole curve on the bodice and compare it with the sleeve cap curve.

What is a basic skirt pattern?

A skirt pattern covers the lower body, from the waist down to the knees or ankles.

What measurements are used for a skirt?

• Waist: the narrowest part of the middle.
• Hips: the widest part of the lower body.
• Length: how long the skirt should be.

What are the main features of a skirt pattern?

• Hip curve: the hips are curved, so a hip curve ruler is used to shape the side line naturally.
• Waistband space: space is left at the top for the band that holds the skirt up.
• Fold line: one side is marked “Fold”, so the fabric is folded there and cut as one big piece instead of two halves.

How do the three blocks compare?

How are the basic blocks used?

The bodice, sleeve and skirt blocks can be combined to make many garments.

• Dresses: a bodice joined to a skirt.
• Shirts: a bodice with sleeves.
• Jackets: a bodice with sleeves, changed in size and style.

Evaluation

1. Define pattern drafting.
2. Why do we draft only half of a bodice pattern instead of the full front?
3. Name three tools used in pattern drafting.
4. State two things that can go wrong if the sleeve cap is too high or too low.
5. What is the use of the “Fold” mark on a skirt pattern?

Assignment

Take your waist, hip and skirt length measurements. Write them in your notebook, then list the tools you would need to draft a basic skirt pattern.