Measurement for Fitted Gown – JSS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

Measurement for a fitted gown is the process of taking accurate body sizes with a tape so that the finished gown follows the shape of the body.

Behavioural objectives

1. Define a fitted garment and explain why accurate measurement matters.
2. List the tools needed for taking body measurements.
3. Take vertical measurements correctly: total length, skirt length, sleeve length and shoulder to waist.
4. Take circumference measurements correctly: shoulder width, bust, waist and hips.
5. Identify common measuring mistakes and say how to avoid them.

Why do we measure the body?

We measure the body to make a fitted garment, which is clothing that follows the shape of the body and is neither too tight nor too baggy.

• Good fit: a gown cut from wrong numbers will be too tight to breathe in or too loose to look neat.
• Correct pattern: the pattern is drawn from the measurements.
• No wasted cloth: a wrong cut cannot be undone, so the cloth is lost.

What is the “golden rule” of measuring?

The golden rule is that every step depends on the one before it.

1. If the measurements are wrong, the pattern will be wrong.
2. If the pattern is wrong, the cutting will be wrong.
3. If the cutting is wrong, the cloth is wasted.

• “Measure twice, cut once”: check your numbers again before you touch the scissors.

What tools are needed for taking measurements?

Four things are needed for taking body measurements: a tape, a string, a notebook with pencil, and a partner.

1. Flexible measuring tape: it wraps round the curves of the body. A wooden ruler cannot do this.
2. String or cord: it is tied round the waist to mark the natural waistline.
3. Notebook and pencil: write each number down immediately so none is forgotten.
4. A partner: you cannot measure yourself accurately.

How should the model be prepared?

The model is the person being measured, and must stand in a natural, straight position.

• Posture: stand straight, feet together, looking forward.
• Clothing: do not wear bulky clothes such as sweaters, because they make the numbers too large.
• Waist cord: tie the string round the waist before you begin.
• Respect: always respect your partner’s personal space while measuring.

What are vertical measurements?

Vertical measurements are lengths taken from top to bottom of the body.

• Total length (gown or shirt): place the tape at the highest point of the shoulder, near the neck, and let it drop to where the garment should end.
• Skirt or trouser length: start from the waist cord and measure down to the knee or ankle.
• Sleeve length: start from the edge of the shoulder and measure to the wrist. Bend the elbow slightly so the sleeve is not too short when the arm moves.
• Shoulder to waist: measure from the shoulder down to the string tied at the waist.

What are horizontal and circumference measurements?

Horizontal and circumference measurements are taken across the body or around it.

• Shoulder width: measure from the bone at the edge of the left shoulder, across the back, to the bone at the edge of the right shoulder.
• Bust or chest: wrap the tape round the fullest part of the chest. Keep the tape straight at the back.
• Waist: wrap the tape round the narrowest part of the stomach, where the string is tied. Do not pull it too tight.
• Hips: wrap the tape round the widest part of the buttocks. This is usually about 18 cm to 20 cm below the waistline.

What is the “two-finger” rule?

The two-finger rule is a way of leaving ease, which is a small allowance so the clothes are not skin-tight.

1. Wrap the tape round the bust, waist or hips.
2. Slide two fingers under the tape.
3. Read the number with the fingers in place.

Summary table of measurements

What are the common measuring mistakes?

The common mistakes are sucking in the stomach, twisting the tape and starting from the wrong end of the tape.

Class activity

Work in pairs: one learner is the designer and the other is the model.

1. Tie a string round your partner’s waist.
2. Measure the bust, waist and hips.
3. Write them in your notebook in this form:
   1. Name: [Partner’s name]
   2. Bust: _____ cm
   3. Waist: _____ cm
   4. Hips: _____ cm
4. Swap roles and repeat.

Evaluation

1. What is a fitted garment?
2. List the four things needed for taking body measurements.
3. Name the four vertical measurements for a gown.
4. Explain the two-finger rule and say why it is used.
5. State two common measuring mistakes and how to avoid each one.

Assignment

Measure a family member or friend for a fitted gown. Record the total length, sleeve length, shoulder width, bust, waist and hips in your notebook, and bring it to class.