Garment Construction III – JSS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

Garment Construction III is the study of making adult wear: the straight skirt, the simple shirt or blouse and the shift dress (gown).

Behavioural objectives

1. State three ways in which adult wear differs from children’s wear.
2. Define dart, facing, placket, interlining and ease.
3. List the steps for making a shift dress, a straight skirt and a shirt or blouse.
4. Name the checks to make during a fitting session.
5. Identify common faults in adult garments and say how to avoid them.

How is adult wear different from children’s wear?

Adult wear is clothing cut and sewn to fit the curves of an adult body. Children’s wear, such as baby clothes and simple aprons, has fewer fitting details.

What are the types of adult wear in this topic?

There are three types of adult wear in this topic: the straight skirt, the simple shirt or blouse and the gown.

• Straight skirt: a fitted garment for the lower body.
• Simple shirt or blouse: a top with sleeves and a neckline.
• Gown: a one-piece garment that joins a top and a skirt.

What are the key terms in adult garment construction?

These terms describe the parts and methods used when sewing adult wear.

• Dart: a small V-shaped stitched fold that shapes fabric to fit the body.
• Facing: a piece of fabric cut to the shape of an edge, sewn inside and turned over to give a clean finish.
• Interlining: a stiff material placed inside a part, such as a waistband, to keep it firm.
• Placket: a double layer of fabric at an opening, where buttons or snap fasteners are fixed.
• Ease: spreading the extra fabric of a curved edge evenly so it fits a smaller edge without folds.
• Fitting: trying the garment on the wearer before finishing it.

How is a shift dress made?

A shift dress is a gown with no waist seam, and it is the simplest gown for beginners.

Construction steps

1. Sew the bust darts: an adult gown must have them so the fabric sits over the chest without bunching under the arms.
2. Join the shoulders: sew the front and back together at the shoulders first.
3. Join the side seams: sew the sides after the shoulders.
4. Finish the neckline with a facing: sew it inside and turn it over so the edge looks clean.
5. Hold a fitting: the wearer tries on the gown before the hem is finished.
6. Finish the hem: sew it after the fitting.

What do you check at the fitting?

• Sitting: can the wearer sit down comfortably?
• Length: is the length modest and correct?
• Armhole: does it pinch the skin?

How is a straight skirt made?

A straight skirt, also called a pencil skirt, is a fitted skirt that is the base of many other skirt styles.

Key parts to assemble

• Darts: small V-shaped stitches at the waist that help the fabric curve over the hips. Without them, the waist gaps and looks untidy.
• Zip opening: adults need a long opening to get in. A zip of about 7 to 9 inches is usually put at the centre back.
• Waistband: adult skirts usually have a stiff waistband made with interlining, unlike a baby’s skirt that uses elastic.

Construction steps

1. Sew the darts at the waist.
2. Join the side seams, starting at the waist and sewing down to the hem.
3. Fix the zip at the centre back opening.
4. Attach the waistband with its interlining.
5. Hold a fitting.
6. Finish the hem.

Success tip: sew side seams from the waist to the hem so the waistline stays level.

How is a simple shirt or blouse made?

A shirt or blouse is a top with sleeves and a neckline, and it is more technical to sew than a skirt.

Important steps

1. Join the shoulder seams first: this holds the weight of the garment.
2. Set the sleeves: ease the curved top of each sleeve into the armhole. Done well, the sleeve is smooth. Done badly, it has small unwanted folds.
3. Add a facing or collar: this makes the neck look neat.
4. Make the opening: most shirts open at the front or back. Make a placket where the buttons or snap fasteners will go.

How do you check the balance?

• Hold the shirt up by the shoulders.
• The front and back should hang evenly.
• If one side is longer, the measurements or cutting were slightly off.

What are common faults in adult garments?

Most faults in adult wear come from missing darts, poor easing or wrong measurements.

Class activity

• Look at the skirt or trousers you are wearing. Can you find the darts?
• Feel the waistband. Is it soft like elastic or stiff like a board?

Evaluation

1. State three differences between adult wear and children’s wear.
2. What is a dart, and why is it needed on a skirt and a gown?
3. Describe how to set a sleeve into an armhole.
4. List three things to check at a gown fitting.
5. Why do we sew the shoulder seams first on a shirt?

Assignment

Choose one of the three adult garments in this note. Write its construction steps in order, and name two faults to avoid.