Cosmetic Dermatology I – SS2 Beauty & Cosmetology Lesson Note (Third Term)

Cosmetic dermatology looks at how skin ages and how common skin problems are treated. Skin ages through time and through the environment, mainly the sun. Acne forms when oil, dead skin and bacteria block a hair follicle. Dark spots left after pimples are called PIH. Each problem has treatments that a beautician must know.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• Explain the difference between intrinsic and extrinsic ageing.
• Name four anti-ageing treatments and state what each one does.
• Describe the four steps by which a pimple forms.
• Match acne treatments (salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide and extraction) to the problems they treat.
• Explain why dark spots (PIH) appear after acne and how they are treated.

What are the types of ageing?

Ageing is a natural process, but in the beauty world we try to slow down its signs. There are two types of ageing:

1. Intrinsic ageing: This is just time passing. As we get older, our skin naturally makes less collagen (the protein that keeps skin firm) and elastin (the protein that makes it bouncy).
2. Extrinsic ageing: This is ageing caused by the environment. The biggest enemy is the sun. Smoking, poor diet and not sleeping enough also make the skin age faster.

What happens? The skin becomes thinner, drier and starts to sag. We also see “fine lines” around the eyes and mouth.

How do we treat ageing skin?

We cannot stop time, but we can protect the skin. These are the most effective ways to treat ageing skin:

• Sunscreen (the number one secret): The best anti-ageing product is SPF. It stops the sun from breaking down the collagen in the dermis.
• Retinoids (Vitamin A): These are like “exercise” for the skin cells. They tell the skin to speed up cell turnover, which smooths out fine lines.
• Antioxidants (Vitamin C): These protect the skin from “pollution” and brighten dark spots.
• Moisturisers: Older skin produces less oil (sebum). Thick creams with hyaluronic acid help to “plump” the skin so wrinkles look smaller.

Stylist tip: Always tell your clients that it is easier to prevent a wrinkle with sunscreen at age 20 than to fix a wrinkle at age 50.

Why do pimples happen?

Acne is not caused only by “dirty skin”. It is a skin condition that happens in the hair follicle.

The four steps of a pimple

1. Overactive oil: The glands produce too much oil (sebum).
2. Dead skin clog: Dead skin cells do not shed properly and block the pore.
3. Bacteria growth: A specific bacterium (P. acnes) starts to grow in the trapped oil.
4. Inflammation: The body tries to fight the bacteria, causing redness, swelling and pus.

How is acne treated?

Different types of acne need different treatments. As a beautician, you must know which one to use.

• Salicylic acid: This is “oil-loving”. It goes deep into the pore to dissolve the “glue” holding the clog together. It is great for blackheads.
• Benzoyl peroxide: This kills the bacteria that cause the pimple. It is best for red, painful bumps with white heads.
• Niacinamide: This helps calm the redness and controls how much oil the skin produces.
• Extraction: This is when a professional carefully removes a blackhead. Warning: Never let a client “pop” their own pimples. This causes deep scars and spreads the bacteria.

What is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark spots)?

In our environment, the biggest problem after acne is the dark spots left behind. This is called PIH.

Why it happens: When the skin is “injured” by a pimple, it produces extra melanin to protect itself.

How is PIH treated?

1. Exfoliation: Gently remove the top layer of skin to fade the spot.
2. Brightening agents: Ingredients like kojic acid or licorice root help slow down melanin production.
3. Patience: These spots take weeks or months to fade. Tell your client to be consistent.

Classroom practical and discussion

1. Product audit: Look at the labels of three different face washes in the lab. Which ones contain salicylic acid? Which ones are for “anti-ageing”?
2. The sunscreen test: Apply a small amount of sunscreen to the back of your hand. Does it leave a “white cast”? Discuss how to find sunscreens that work well on dark skin.
3. Case study: A 17-year-old student has oily skin and blackheads on their nose. What two ingredients would you recommend they look for in a cleanser?

Evaluation

1. State the difference between intrinsic and extrinsic ageing.
2. Why is sunscreen called the best anti-ageing product?
3. List the four steps by which a pimple forms.
4. Which acne treatment kills bacteria, and which one is best for blackheads?
5. Why should a client never “pop” their own pimples?

Assignment

1. Explain why dark spots (PIH) appear after acne.
2. Name three ways of treating PIH and say what each one does.