Advanced Hair Styling I – SS2 Beauty & Cosmetology Lesson Note (First Term)

Wigs cover the whole head, while extensions are added to natural hair to give length or volume. Both are used for versatility, protection and confidence. A good stylist makes the added hair look as if it grows from the scalp. This lesson covers hair materials, wig types and fitting, three extension techniques, and client care.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• State the difference between a wig and an extension.
• Compare human hair and synthetic hair by feel, heat, cost and longevity.
• Describe the burn test for identifying human and synthetic hair.
• Name the lace frontal, closure and full lace, and say how each is used.
• Describe the sew-in, bonding and crochet techniques.
• Give care advice on detangling, night routine and washing.

What are wigs and extensions?

• What are they? Wigs cover the whole head, while extensions are added to natural hair to provide length or volume.
• Main goal: A great stylist makes the “fake” hair look like it is growing right out of the scalp.
• Protecting the natural hair: Extensions are called “protective styles” because they allow the client’s real hair to rest from daily heat and combing.

Stylist tip: Always check the health of the client’s scalp before adding any extensions. If the base is not healthy, the style will not last.

How do human hair and synthetic hair differ?

The right fibre depends on the client’s budget and the look they want.

How does the burn test work?

Use the burn test if you are not sure whether a strand is human or synthetic. Human hair smells like burning feathers and turns to ash. Synthetic hair smells like burning plastic and melts into a hard ball.

How are wigs constructed and fitted?

Wigs today are built mainly with lace. The main types are:

• Lace frontal: Covers the hairline from ear to ear. It gives the most realistic look for parting.
• Closure: A smaller piece (usually 4×4 inches) used to close off a sew-in or wig at the top.
• Full lace: The entire base is made of lace. This type can be worn in a high ponytail.

The golden rule of fitting: Before putting on a wig, braid the natural hair down as flat as possible (cornrows). If the braids are bulky, the wig will look like a “helmet.”

What are the popular extension techniques?

A stylist needs more than one tool in the kit. Three popular ways to install hair are:

1. Sew-in (weaving): Hair is braided into cornrows, and the extensions (wefts) are sewn onto the braids using a needle and thread.
2. Bonding (gluing): The hair is glued onto a protective cap or directly (carefully) to the hair. It is fast but can be messy.
3. Crochet: A latch hook is used to pull hair through pre-braided cornrows. This is great for bulky, textured looks like twists or curls.

How do you care for the client’s style after installation?

The job is not finished when the client leaves the chair. Teach the client how to keep the style looking fresh.

• Detangling: Always start from the tips and work up to the roots. This prevents shedding.
• Night routine: Clients should wear a silk or satin bonnet. Cotton pillowcases soak up moisture and cause frizz.
• Washing: Wash wigs in a basin of cool water. Never scrub harshly, or the hair will matte.

Evaluation

1. Why is a “flat” braid-down important for a wig install?
2. Which type of hair would you recommend for a client who wants to use a curling iron every day?
3. What is the main difference between a closure and a frontal?

Assignment

1. Write a short care guide for a client who has just had a wig or extensions fitted. Include detangling, night routine and washing.
2. Describe how you would carry out the burn test and what you would expect to see and smell for human and synthetic hair.