Makeup Application I – SS1 Beauty & Cosmetology Lesson Note (Third Term)

Makeup application is the process of preparing the skin and applying a base so that it looks even and natural. The base uses concealer to hide spots, foundation to even out the skin, contour and highlight to shape the face, and powder to set it in place. The aim is a base that looks like skin, not paint.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

1. State the purpose of concealer and apply it correctly.
2. Choose a foundation shade by testing it on the jawline.
3. Apply and blend foundation using the dot method.
4. Explain the difference between contouring and highlighting and say where each goes on the face.
5. Describe how translucent and pressed powder are used to set makeup.
6. Identify common base makeup mistakes and how to avoid them.

What tools and products are used for base makeup?

Base makeup needs clean skin, a few products and clean tools.

• Cleanser and moisturiser: clean the skin and keep it soft so the base sits smoothly.
• Concealer: hides spots, dark circles and uneven patches.
• Foundation: gives the skin an even colour.
• Contour and highlight products: create shadow and light on the face.
• Powder: sets the base and controls shine.
• Beauty sponge: spreads and blends foundation. Use it slightly damp.
• Foundation brush: spreads foundation in smooth strokes.
• Small concealer brush: places concealer on small areas.
• Powder brush and puff: apply and dust off powder.

What are the steps of applying a base?

A base is applied in a fixed order, from clean skin to set powder.

1. Wash your hands and tie the client’s hair back from the face.
2. Cleanse the client’s face and dry it gently.
3. Apply a little moisturiser and let it sink in.
4. Apply foundation using the dot method and blend well.
5. Dab concealer on spots and under the eyes. Concealer can also go on before foundation.
6. Add contour and highlight, then blend the edges.
7. Set the base with powder.
8. Check the face and neck in good light for hard lines.

What is concealer and how is it applied?

Concealer is a thick, strongly pigmented product used to hide specific problems on the skin.

• Under the eyes: hides dark circles.
• On pimples and spots: hides redness and marks.
• Around the nose corners: hides redness and uneven colour.
• The “brightening” trick: many professionals use a concealer 1 or 2 shades lighter than the client’s skin under the eyes. This makes the client look well-rested and “awake.”
• Application: use a small brush or your ring finger to “dab” it in. The ring finger gives the lightest touch.
• Do not rub: rubbing moves the product away from the spot you are trying to hide.

How do you apply foundation?

Foundation is a skin-coloured product that keeps the client’s own colour and makes the skin look even.

How do you choose the shade?

• Test on the jawline: the correct shade “disappears” into the skin.
• Looks white or ashy: the shade is too light.
• Looks orange or muddy: the shade is too dark or the undertone is wrong.
• Swatch more than one: put two or three shades side by side and check in daylight.

What are undertones?

Undertone is the soft colour under the skin surface that stays the same in all lighting.

• Warm: golden or yellow tone.
• Cool: pink or bluish tone.
• Neutral: a mix of warm and cool.

What are the types of foundation?

There are three common types of foundation: liquid, cream and stick.

How do you apply and blend it?

1. Put small dots of foundation on the forehead, cheeks, nose and chin.
2. Spread the dots outwards with a damp beauty sponge or foundation brush.
3. Blend into the hairline.
4. Blend slightly down the neck so no line shows where the makeup stops.

What are contouring and highlighting?

Contouring and highlighting use shadow and light to change the shape of the face.

What is contouring?

Contouring is the use of a colour darker than the skin to create shadow in the hollows of the face.

• Under the cheekbones: makes the cheekbones look higher.
• Sides of the nose: makes the nose look slimmer.
• Along the jawline: gives the lower face a clearer edge.

What is highlighting?

Highlighting is the use of a lighter colour on the high parts of the face where light naturally falls.

• Bridge of the nose: makes the nose look straight.
• Centre of the forehead: brings light to the upper face.
• Top of the cheekbones: makes the cheeks look lifted.

What is the difference between contouring and highlighting?

How does powder set makeup?

Powder sets foundation and concealer so they stay in place and stay less oily.

• Why it matters in Nigeria: in warm weather, foundation can “melt” or turn oily after about one hour.
• Translucent powder: a “colourless” powder, often sold loose. It absorbs oil without changing the colour of the foundation.
• Pressed powder (compact): gives a little more coverage and is useful for touch-ups during the day.
• The “baking” technique: apply a thick layer of loose powder under the eyes and leave it for about 2 minutes while you do the eyes. Then dust it off. The under-eye area looks very smooth.

What mistakes should you avoid?

There are three common base makeup mistakes: the ghost look, dirty sponges and an unblended neck.

• The “ghost” look: using a powder or foundation much lighter than the skin. Under camera flashes, the person looks white. Avoid it by testing the shade on the jawline.
• Dirty sponges: a dirty sponge makes the foundation “streaky”, with lines showing on the face. Avoid it by washing sponges and brushes after use.
• Not blending the neck: the face is joined to the neck, so the colours must match. Avoid it by blending foundation down the neck.

What hygiene rules apply to makeup application?

Hygiene rules protect the client’s skin from germs and breakouts.

• Wash your hands: do this before you touch the client’s face.
• Clean tools: wash brushes and sponges and let them dry fully.
• Use a spatula or palette: take product from the pot with a clean spatula, not your fingers.
• Do not share: never use one client’s sponge or brush on another client without cleaning it.

How should a finished base look?

A finished base looks like skin, not like paint.

• Even: no patches, lines or streaks.
• Matched: face, jawline and neck have the same colour.
• Less is more: you can always add more makeup, but it is hard to take off once you have applied too much.

Class practical activity

• The jawline test: in pairs, find the “perfect match” foundation for your partner. Swatch three different shades on the jawline to see which one “disappears.”
• Contour drawing: on a piece of paper, draw an oval face. Use a brown crayon to show where the “shadows” (contour) should go.

Evaluation

1. Where on the face do we use concealer?
2. Why do we test foundation on the jawline, and what does it mean if the shade looks white or orange?
3. Name two places where we apply contour and two places where we apply highlight.
4. State one difference between translucent powder and pressed powder.
5. What causes a “streaky” foundation finish?

Assignment

Write a short note on the three common base makeup mistakes in this lesson: the ghost look, dirty sponges and not blending the neck. For each one, say what goes wrong and how to avoid it.