Makeup Application I SS1 Beauty & Cosmetology Lesson Note

Concealer: The “Magic Eraser”

Concealer is the heavy-duty version of foundation. We use it to hide specific problems before or after we apply our main color.

• Where to use it: Under the eyes (for dark circles), on top of pimples, or around the corners of the nose.
• The “Brightening” Trick: Many professionals use a concealer that is 1 or 2 shades lighter than the client’s skin under the eyes. This makes the client look well-rested and “awake.”
• Application: Use a small brush or your ring finger (the weakest finger) to “dab” it in. Never rub, or you will just move the product away from the spot you are trying to hide.

Foundation: Evening Out the Canvas

The goal of foundation is not to change someone’s color, but to make their skin look even. * Choosing the Shade: Always test the color on the jawline. It should “disappear” into the skin. If it looks white, it is too light; if it looks orange or muddy, it is too dark.

• The “Dot” Method: Put small dots of foundation on the forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin.
• Blending: Use your damp beauty sponge or foundation brush to spread it. Make sure you blend it into the hairline and slightly down the neck so there is no “line” showing where the makeup stops.

Contouring and Highlighting: Shaping the Face

This is where we use light and shadow to change the shape of the face.

• Contouring (The Shadow): We use a powder or cream that is darker than the skin. We apply it in the “hollows” to create shadows.
  1. Where: Under the cheekbones (to make them look higher), the sides of the nose (to make it look slimmer), and the jawline.
• Highlighting (The Light): We use a lighter color on the high parts of the face where the sun naturally hits.
  1. Where: The bridge of the nose, the center of the forehead, and the top of the cheekbones.

Setting with Powder: The Final Seal

In our warm Nigerian weather, foundation can “melt” or get oily after just one hour. Powder is what “sets” it in place.

• Translucent Powder: This is a “colorless” powder. It is great for absorbing oil without changing the color of the foundation.
• Pressed Powder (Compact): This gives a bit more coverage and is great for touch-ups during the day.
• The “Baking” Technique: This is when you apply a thick layer of loose powder under the eyes, let it sit for 2 minutes while you do the eyes, and then dust it off. It makes the under-eye area look very smooth.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• The “Ghost” Look: Using a powder or foundation that is much lighter than the skin. Under camera flashes, the person will look white like a ghost!
• Dirty Sponges: If your sponge is dirty, your foundation will look “streaky” (lines showing on the face).
• Not Blending the Neck: Always remember that the face is attached to the neck. The colors must match!

Summary for the Student

The base should look like Skin, not like Paint. Less is more! You can always add more makeup, but it is very hard to take it off once you have applied too much.

Class Practical Activity:

• The Jawline Test: In pairs, we will try to find the “Perfect Match” foundation for our partners. We will swatch three different shades on the jawline to see which one “disappears.”

Contour Drawing: On a piece of paper, draw an oval face and use a brown crayon to show where the “Shadows” (contour) should go.