Corrective Makeup – SS1 Beauty & Cosmetology Lesson Note (Third Term)

Corrective makeup is the use of highlighting (light colours) and shading or contouring (dark colours) to change how a face or feature looks.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

1. Explain what corrective makeup is and the rule of light and dark colours behind it.
2. Identify the round, square, long (oblong), heart and oval face shapes.
3. Describe how to correct each face shape with shading and highlighting.
4. Describe how to correct the nose, forehead and double chin.
5. Apply the Three-E rule when blending corrective makeup.

What is the rule behind corrective makeup?

Corrective makeup works on one rule: light colours bring features forward and dark colours push them back.

• Light colours (highlight): make a feature look bigger, wider or more prominent.
• Dark colours (shadow): make a feature look smaller, narrower or less noticeable.
• Aim: to make every other face shape look more like the balanced oval.

What are the key terms in corrective makeup?

Five terms are used again and again in this topic.

• Highlight: a light shade placed on areas you want to bring forward.
• Contour (shading): a dark shade placed on areas you want to reduce or hide.
• Blending: softening the edges so light and dark shades fade into each other.
• Oval face: the face shape taken as the ideal, balanced shape in cosmetology.
• Foundation: the base colour matched to the skin, applied before shading and highlighting.

What is the difference between highlight and contour?

Highlight is a light shade that makes an area stand out. Contour is a dark shade that makes an area sink back.

What are the face shapes and how do you correct them?

There are five face shapes in this lesson: oval, round, square, long (oblong) and heart.

The oval face is the balanced shape, so the other four are corrected towards it.

How do you correct specific features?

Sometimes only one part of the face needs correcting.

How do you correct the nose?

• Wide nose: draw two dark lines down the sides of the nose and a bright highlight line down the centre (the bridge).
• Long nose: apply a little shading (dark) at the very tip of the nose.

How do you correct the forehead?

• High or large forehead: apply shading along the hairline at the top. This “brings the hairline down”.
• Narrow or small forehead: apply highlight to the centre of the forehead to make it look more open.

How do you hide a double chin?

• Shading: apply a dark shade along the edge of the jawbone and blend it down into the neck.
• Effect: the shadow hides the extra skin under the chin.

Which products are used for highlighting and shading?

Corrective makeup uses two types of product: cream or liquid, and powder.

• Cream or liquid: looks natural and skin-like, but must be blended well with a damp sponge.
• Powder: easier for beginners. Use a darker powder for shadow and a lighter powder (or a shimmer highlighter) for light.

How do you choose the shades?

• Highlight shade: one or two shades lighter than the client’s foundation.
• Contour shade: one or two shades darker than the client’s foundation.
• Tip: test the shades on the client’s jaw in daylight before you start.

What are the steps for applying corrective makeup?

Corrective makeup is applied in seven steps, after the skin is clean.

1. Cleanse and moisturise the client’s face.
2. Apply foundation that matches the skin.
3. Examine the face shape and decide what to shade and what to highlight.
4. Apply the dark shade to the areas to reduce.
5. Apply the light shade to the areas to bring forward.
6. Blend until no lines can be seen.
7. Set with powder and check the result in a mirror.

• Professional tip: blend “upwards”. Contour blended downwards can make the face look saggy and old.

What is the Three-E rule for blending?

The Three-E rule is a three-step guide to stop the client from having brown and white stripes on the face.

1. Examine the face shape first.
2. Estimate where the shadow should go.
3. Erase the lines. Use a brush or sponge to blend until the dark and light colours fade into each other.

How do you check your corrective makeup?

Corrective makeup is about balance: it helps a person look their best and still look like themselves.

• Lighting: check your work in natural sunlight and in salon light.
• Edges: no hard lines should show between the shades.
• Natural look: the shadows should look like part of the face.

Class practical activity

• The mirror test: look into a mirror and identify your own face shape: oval, round, square, long or heart.
• Slimming the nose: practise on a partner using a dark eyeshadow and a light concealer.
• Discussion: why do we say the oval face is the “standard”? Can other face shapes be beautiful without correction?

Evaluation

1. What is corrective makeup?
2. State what light colours and dark colours do to the look of a feature.
3. Describe how to correct a round face and a heart-shaped face.
4. How do you make a wide nose look slim?
5. Why should you blend contour upwards, and what does the “Erase” step of the Three-E rule mean?

Assignment

1. Write the name and description of each of the five face shapes taught, and state the correction for each.
2. Explain how to hide a double chin.