Sewing Machines – JSS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (First Term)

A sewing machine is a device that joins pieces of fabric together with thread, using stitches that are straight, strong and fast to make.

Behavioural objectives

1. Define a sewing machine and name its types.
2. Name and state the function of the main parts of a sewing machine.
3. Thread the top and bottom of a sewing machine in the correct order.
4. State and follow the basic rules for using a sewing machine safely.

What is a sewing machine?

A sewing machine is a device used to stitch fabric together using thread.

• Speed: it makes a whole dress much faster than hand sewing.
• Neatness: its stitches are straight and even.
• Strength: its stitches hold firmly and last long.
• Link to hand sewing: hand sewing suits small repairs, while the machine suits whole garments.

What are the types of sewing machine?

There are three common types of sewing machine: hand-operated, treadle (foot-pedal) and electric.

• Hand-operated machine: the user turns a handle with one hand and guides the cloth with the other.
• Treadle (foot-pedal) machine: the user pumps a foot pedal to drive the needle.
• Electric machine: an electric motor drives the needle, and a foot pedal controls the speed.

Most types work in a very similar way and have the same main parts.

What are the parts of a sewing machine and their functions?

The main parts of a sewing machine are the balance wheel, spool pin, needle bar, presser foot, feed dog, bobbin and others, and each does one job.

• Balance Wheel: the large wheel on the right side. Turn it toward you to move the needle up and down by hand.
• Spool Pin: a small rod on top that holds the spool of thread.
• Thread Guide: a small hook or loop that keeps the thread on its path.
• Tension Discs: two small discs that control how tight the thread is.
• Thread Take-up Lever: moves up and down with the needle and pulls thread from the spool.
• Needle Bar: holds the needle and moves it up and down through the fabric.
• Needle: carries the top thread through the fabric. The thread passes through its eye.
• Presser Foot: holds the fabric flat so it does not jump about while you sew.
• Presser Foot Lifter: a lever at the back that raises or lowers the presser foot.
• Feed Dog: the “teeth” under the needle. They move the fabric forward as you sew.
• Stitch Regulator: a knob or lever that makes stitches longer or shorter.
• Bobbin and Bobbin Case: the bobbin is a small spool holding the bottom thread. It sits in the bobbin case under the needle.
• Foot Pedal: controls the speed of the machine.

Parts at a glance

How do you thread a sewing machine?

A sewing machine needs two threads to sew: the top thread from the spool and the bottom thread from the bobbin.

• Wrong threading: the machine skips stitches or the thread breaks.

How do you thread the top of the machine?

1. Place the thread on the Spool Pin.
2. Pass the thread through the Thread Guide.
3. Bring it down and wrap it around the Tension Discs.
4. Hook it into the Thread Take-up Lever.
5. Pass it through the last guide near the needle.
6. Thread the Eye of the Needle.

How do you thread the bottom (the bobbin)?

1. Wind thread onto the Bobbin.
2. Drop the bobbin into the Bobbin Case.
3. Pull the thread through the slot in the case.
4. Turn the Balance Wheel toward you once. The needle goes down, catches the bobbin thread and brings it up.

What are the basic rules for using a sewing machine?

The basic rules protect the user and the machine and keep the stitches neat.

1. Do not force the fabric: let the Feed Dog pull the cloth. Only guide it gently with your hands.
2. Turn the wheel toward you: never turn the balance wheel backward, as this can tangle the thread.
3. Keep fingers away: keep your fingers at least two inches from the moving needle.
4. Keep your eyes on the needle: do not look around the room while your foot is on the pedal.

Class practical exercise

1. Identify the Balance Wheel and the Spool Pin on the classroom machine.
2. Practise pumping the pedal without a needle first, to get the rhythm.
3. Watch the teacher demonstrate how to pass the thread through the Tension Discs.

Evaluation

1. What is a sewing machine?
2. What is the function of the Presser Foot?
3. Where do we find the “bottom thread” in a sewing machine?
4. Which part of the machine moves the fabric forward while we sew?
5. Why must the balance wheel always be turned toward you?

Assignment

Write the six steps of top threading in the correct order, and state the function of the Tension Discs.