Basic Seam – JSS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

A seam is a line of stitches that joins two or more pieces of fabric together.

Behavioural objectives

1. Define a seam and state the difference between a stitch and a seam.
2. Identify the seam line and the seam allowance.
3. Make a plain seam and press it open.
4. Describe the steps of making a French seam.
5. List the characteristics of a well-made seam.

What is a seam?

A seam is the line of sewing made when stitches join pieces of fabric.

• Purpose: it holds the parts of a garment together, like glue.
• Strong, neat seam: the garment lasts long and looks professional.
• Weak seam: the garment can rip apart when worn.

What are the parts of a seam?

• Seam line: the exact line along which you sew.
• Seam allowance: the space between the seam line and the cut edge of the fabric, usually about 1 to 2 cm.
• Raw edge: the cut edge of the fabric, which can fray (become “hairy”).

What is the difference between a stitch and a seam?

• Stitch: one complete movement of the needle and thread through the fabric.
• Seam: a line of stitches used to join pieces of fabric.

What is a plain seam?

A plain seam is the most common seam, made by sewing two pieces of fabric together with right sides facing.

• Right side: the outer, good-looking side of the fabric.
• Wrong side: the inner side of the fabric.
• Uses: side seams of a skirt, shoulders of a shirt and most other parts of a garment.

How do you make a plain seam?

1. Place the two pieces of fabric together with the right sides facing each other.
2. Pin the pieces together so they do not shift.
3. Sew a straight line of stitches (running stitch or backstitch) along the seam line.
4. Remove the tacking stitches if you used any.

What is an open seam?

An open seam is a plain seam whose seam allowances are pressed flat so they lie open on both sides.

1. Sew a plain seam.
2. Open the two seam allowances away from each other.
3. Press them flat with a hot iron suited to the fabric.

• Why press open: the garment lies flat and no bulky ridge shows on the outside.
• Best used for: side seams of trousers and skirts.

What is a French seam?

A French seam is a “seam within a seam” that hides all the raw edges inside the stitching.

• Thin or see-through fabrics: silk and chiffon, where raw edges would show.
• Children’s clothes: the inside is smooth against the skin.

How do you make a French seam?

1. Place the two pieces with the wrong sides facing each other. This differs from the plain seam.
2. Sew a very thin seam near the edge.
3. Trim the fuzzy raw edges so they are very short.
4. Press the seam, then fold the fabric so the right sides face each other. The first seam is now inside the fold.
5. Sew a second line of stitches. It traps the raw edges inside.

What are the differences between the three seams?

What are the characteristics of a good seam?

A good seam is strong, straight, flat, neat and sewn with correct tension.

• Strong: it does not pull apart when tugged.
• Straight: the line of sewing is as straight as a ruler.
• Flat: it is not puckered (wrinkled) or bulky.
• Neat: no loose threads hang out.
• Correct tension: stitches are not too tight, which breaks the thread, or too loose, which makes loops.

What tips help in the practical class?

1. Match your thread: use thread of the same colour as your scrap fabric.
2. Pin it first: pins hold the fabric together so it does not shift while you sew.
3. Iron as you go: pressing each seam makes it flatter and neater.

Class practical activity

• Task: on a small piece of cloth (15 cm × 15 cm), sew a plain seam.
• Challenge: press it into an open seam with the school iron, then show your teacher the result.

Evaluation

1. What is the difference between a stitch and a seam?
2. Why do we press a seam open?
3. List two types of fabric that are best suited for a French seam.
4. Mention three things to look for to know if a seam is well made.

Assignment

In your notebook, write the five steps of making a French seam in order. State two places where you would use it.