Introduction to Pattern – JSS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

A pattern is a paper template that shows the shape and size of each piece of cloth needed to make a garment.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

1. Define a pattern and a block.
2. State three reasons for using a pattern.
3. Distinguish between commercial and drafted patterns.
4. List the basic tools used for pattern drafting.
5. Draft a simple front skirt block in steps.
6. Identify common pattern marks.

What is a pattern?

A pattern is a template, or “map”, drawn on paper that shows the shape of the cloth to be sewn.

• Everyday comparison: it is like sketching a heart on paper before baking a heart-shaped cake.
• How it is used: place the paper on the fabric, trace around it, then cut the fabric.
• Drafting: the act of drawing a pattern on paper using body measurements.
• Template: a shape used as a guide to copy the same piece again and again.

Why do we use patterns?

We use patterns to avoid mistakes, save fabric and repeat the same garment accurately.

• To avoid mistakes: it is better to make a mistake on cheap paper than on expensive fabric.
• To save fabric: patterns help us arrange the shapes closely so we do not waste cloth.
• For repetition: a pattern for a perfect skirt can be used to make ten more skirts of exactly the same size.

What are the types of patterns?

There are two main types of pattern: commercial patterns and drafted patterns.

Commercial patterns

• Meaning: ready-made patterns bought from shops.
• Packaging: they come in envelopes with instructions.
• Sizes: they are made in standard sizes, such as Small, Medium and Large.

Drafted patterns

• Meaning: patterns you draw yourself using a person’s exact body measurements.
• Fit: they suit one person’s body, so they are the type we learn to make in class.

Commercial and drafted patterns compared

What are the basic pattern drafting tools?

Pattern drafting tools are the “office” tools used to draw pattern shapes on paper, and no sewing machine is needed.

• Brown paper (pattern paper): the paper on which we draw the shapes.
• Pencil and eraser: for drawing lines and fixing mistakes.
• Long ruler and L-square: for straight lines and square corners.
• French curve: a curved ruler used to draw armholes and necklines.
• Tape measure: for taking body measurements before drafting.
• Paper scissors: for cutting the paper pattern. Never use your fabric shears to cut paper.

How do we draft a simple front skirt block?

A block is the basic shape of the body part without any style added, and it is the starting point for a skirt pattern.

Measurements needed

• Waist: the measurement around the waist.
• Hip: the measurement around the fullest part of the hips.
• Skirt length: the measurement from the waist to the chosen hem.

Steps to draft the block

1. The starting line: draw a straight vertical line on the paper. It represents the length of the skirt.
2. The waist line: at the top, draw a horizontal line of 1/4 of the waist measurement plus 1 inch for ease.
3. The hip line: measure about 7 to 9 inches down from the waist and draw a horizontal line of 1/4 of the hip measurement.
4. Connect the points: join the waist to the hip with a slight curve, then continue straight down to the hem.
5. Add seam allowance: add about 1 inch around the edges for joining the pieces.

Worked example

• Waist 28 inches: 28 ÷ 4 = 7, then 7 + 1 = 8 inches for the waist line.
• Hip 40 inches: 40 ÷ 4 = 10 inches for the hip line.

Key terms in drafting

• Ease: extra room added so the wearer can breathe and move comfortably.
• Seam allowance: extra fabric beyond the stitching line, used to join pieces together.
• Hem: the bottom edge of the skirt.

What are the common pattern marks?

Pattern marks are symbols printed or drawn on a pattern to tell the tailor how to place, cut and join the pieces.

• Grain line (↔): a double-headed arrow showing the direction the pattern must lie on the fabric, parallel to the selvedge.
• Place on fold: a bracket-shaped symbol meaning the fabric is folded in half and that edge of the pattern is placed on the fold.
• Notches: tiny marks on the pattern edge that help you match pieces of fabric exactly.
• Dart: a V-shaped marking that helps the cloth fit the curves of the body, such as the chest or waist.

Evaluation

1. Define the term “pattern” in your own words.
2. Give two reasons why a tailor should use a pattern before cutting fabric.
3. What is the difference between commercial patterns and drafted patterns?
4. Why do we add seam allowance to our patterns?

Assignment

In your notebook, draw a small sketch of a basic skirt pattern, then do the following:

1. Label the waist line, the hip line and the hem line.
2. Draw the symbol for “place on fold” at the side of your sketch.