Basic Stitches – JSS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (First Term)

A stitch is a single turn or loop of thread made by a needle to join or finish fabric.

Behavioural objectives

1. Define a stitch and a hand stitch.
2. Name the two types of hand stitches and state the difference between them.
3. Identify the four basic hand stitches: tacking, running stitch, backstitch and hemming.
4. State the use of each basic stitch.
5. Make a line of tacking, running stitch and backstitch on scrap cloth.
6. State the rules for making neat stitches.

What is a stitch?

A stitch is a single turn or loop of thread made by a needle.

• Link to the last lesson: fabrics are turned into shirts and trousers by joining them with stitches.
• Hand stitches: stitches made with a needle and thread by hand, without a machine.
• Uses of hand sewing: mending clothes, replacing buttons and making embroidery designs.

What tools are needed for hand stitching?

Hand stitching needs a needle, thread, a thimble, pins and scissors.

• Needle: carries the thread in and out of the fabric.
• Thread: forms the stitches and holds the fabric together.
• Thimble: protects the middle finger from the back of the needle.
• Pins: hold pieces of fabric in place before stitching.
• Scissors: cut the thread and the fabric.

What are the types of hand stitches?

There are two types of hand stitches: temporary stitches and permanent stitches.

Temporary stitches

• Meaning: stitches that hold fabric together for a short time.
• Removal: they are pulled out once the permanent sewing is done.
• Example: tacking.

Permanent stitches

• Meaning: stitches that stay in the garment.
• Quality: they are strong and neat.
• Examples: backstitch and hemming stitch.

What are the four basic hand stitches?

The four basic hand stitches are tacking, running stitch, backstitch and hemming stitch.

1. What is tacking? (temporary)

Tacking is a long, loose stitch used to hold fabric in place while the real sewing is done.

• How it looks: long, loose stitches with big gaps between them.
• Function: to hold fabric together temporarily.
• Care: use a thread colour different from the fabric, so it is easy to see and pull out.

2. What is a running stitch? (permanent or temporary)

A running stitch is made by passing the needle in and out of the fabric in a straight line.

• How it looks: a dashed line, like the lines in the middle of a road.
• Function: mending, gathering fabric to make frills, and simple joining.
• Tip: keep all the stitches the same length so the line looks neat.

Steps for making a running stitch

1. Knot the end of the thread.
2. Push the needle up through the fabric from the back.
3. Push the needle down a short distance ahead.
4. Bring it up again the same distance further on.
5. Repeat in a straight line, then fasten off at the back.

3. What is a backstitch? (permanent)

A backstitch is the strongest hand stitch, made by returning the needle into the previous hole.

• How it looks: on the front, it looks like a solid line of machine sewing.
• Function: joining two pieces of fabric tightly, and repairing seams that have ripped open.
• Why it is special: unlike the running stitch, the needle goes backward into the previous hole before coming out forward again.
• Use: it is the best choice when there is no sewing machine.

Steps for making a backstitch

1. Knot the thread and bring the needle up from the back.
2. Take the needle back down, one stitch length behind the thread.
3. Bring the needle up again, one stitch length ahead of the thread.
4. Take the needle back down into the end of the last stitch.
5. Repeat until the seam is joined, then fasten off.

4. What is a hemming stitch? (permanent)

A hemming stitch is a small slanted stitch used to hold down a folded edge, called a hem.

• Hem: the folded edge at the bottom of a school skirt or trousers.
• How it looks: small, slanted stitches that are almost invisible on the right side of the cloth.
• Function: to hold down the folded edges of a garment, such as the bottom of a dress or sleeves.
• Tip: use a thread that matches the fabric colour so the stitches do not show.

How do the four basic stitches compare?

What are the rules for making neat stitches?

Neat stitches come from good posture, the right thread length and careful work.

1. Do not use a thread that is too long: a thread longer than your arm tangles and knots.
2. Sit straight: good posture helps you see your work clearly.
3. Use a thimble: it protects your middle finger from the back of the needle.
4. Knot the end: make a small knot before you start, so the thread does not pull through the cloth.
5. Keep stitches even: make every stitch the same length and keep the line straight.

Practical class activity

1. Step 1: get a piece of calico or any plain scrap cloth (10 cm × 10 cm).
2. Step 2: thread your needle and make a line of tacking.
3. Step 3: below it, make a line of running stitch, with all the dashes the same size.
4. Step 4: below that, make a line of backstitch and compare how strong it feels.

Evaluation

1. What is a stitch?
2. What is the difference between a temporary stitch and a permanent stitch?
3. Which stitch is the strongest for joining fabric by hand?
4. When would you use a hemming stitch?
5. State two rules for making neat stitches.

Assignment

Draw and label the four basic hand stitches in your notebook. Under each one, write its type and one use.