Practical Project LI – JSS3 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

Formal wear is clothing worn to serious places and events, such as an office, a bank, a graduation or a formal church or mosque service.

Behavioural objectives

1. State three things that make an outfit formal.
2. List the tools and materials needed for the formal wear project.
3. Sew a formal shirt, trousers or skirt in the correct order.
4. Attach a waistband, zip and buttons neatly.
5. Finish and press a garment to a good standard.

What makes an outfit formal?

A formal outfit is made from plain fabric, has sharp details and fits the body neatly.

• The fabric: plain colours such as navy blue, black, grey or white.
• Best fabrics: poplin, cotton and light wool.
• The details: collars, cuffs, zips and crisp hems.
• The fit: neither too baggy nor too tight, and it follows the lines of the body.

What tools and materials are needed for the project?

The project needs paper patterns, a sewing machine, matching thread, interlining, fasteners and an iron.

• Paper patterns: the full set drafted in previous lessons.
• Sewing machine and thread: the thread must match the fabric colour.
• Stay (interlining): makes collars and waistbands stiff.
• Zips and buttons: used to close the garment.
• Iron: a sharp, clean iron for pressing.

How do you make a formal shirt?

A formal shirt is judged mainly by its collar and sleeves, so accuracy is very important.

Step 1: The front and back

• Join the shoulders first.
• For a button-down shirt, fold the placket (the strip where the buttons go).
• Iron the placket flat with a little interlining inside to make it strong.

Step 2: The collar

The collar is the most noticeable part of the shirt.

1. Sew the two collar pieces together.
2. Turn the collar the right way out.
3. Top-stitch the edge (sew a neat line close to the edge on the outside).
4. Pin the centre of the collar to the centre of the neckline.
5. Sew slowly to keep the line straight.

Step 3: The sleeves

1. Sew the sleeves to the armholes before closing the sides.
2. Close the side seam and sleeve seam in one line, from the wrist down to the bottom hem.

How do you make trousers or a skirt?

For both garments, the waistband and the closing (zip) are the most important parts.

For trousers

• The crotch: sew the curved parts of the front together, then the back.
• The in-seam: sew the legs together from the crotch down to the ankles.
• The side seams: leave an opening on the left side or back for the zip.

For a skirt

• Darts: sew the waist darts first, so the skirt sits well on the hips.
• Side seams: join the front and back, leaving the zip opening.

How do you attach a waistband?

A waistband is a firm strip of fabric sewn to the top of trousers or a skirt to hold it in place.

1. Cut a long strip of fabric.
2. Iron the stay (interlining) onto the strip.
3. Sew the strip to the top edge of the garment.
4. Check that it keeps the garment from slipping down and looks neat.

How do you give the garment a good finish?

Finishing is the last stage of the project and covers the zip, buttons, hem and pressing.

The zip and buttons

• Zip: it should be hidden and must not show at the edge.
• Buttonholes: make them first.
• Buttons: sew them on to match the buttonholes exactly.

The hem

• Trousers: use a blind hem, where the thread cannot be seen on the outside.
• Skirts: make the hem the same length all round.
• All formal wear: the hem must be very straight.

The final press

• Trouser crease: iron a crease down the front of each leg.
• Collar: iron it so that it lies flat.
• Seams: press them open so they are not bulky.

What are common faults and how do you correct them?

How will the project be graded?

What advice should students remember?

• Do not rush: formal wear needs precision.
• Correct mistakes: if a seam is crooked, unpick it and sew it again.
• Be proud: a well-made garment can be worn to school as your own office wear.

Evaluation

1. What is formal wear? Give two places where it is worn.
2. Name three features of a formal outfit.
3. Why is stay (interlining) used in collars and waistbands?
4. List the steps for sewing a skirt, starting with the darts.
5. State the four areas used to grade the project.

Assignment

Write the steps for making a formal shirt or a pair of trousers, in the correct order, and state three ways to give it a neat finish.