Practical Project I – JSS3 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Second Term)

Traditional attire is clothing that represents the culture, family and identity of a people, such as Buba and Shokoto, Isiagu and Blouse and Wrapper.

Behavioural objectives

1. State the fabrics used for traditional wear.
2. Take the key body measurements needed for a traditional outfit.
3. Cut a simple traditional top using the free-hand method.
4. Sew the shoulders, sleeves and sides of a traditional top in the correct order.
5. Finish and press a traditional outfit neatly.
6. Assess a finished project for fit, seams and symmetry.

What is traditional attire?

Traditional attire is clothing that shows the culture and identity of a community.

• Buba and Shokoto: a loose top with matching trousers, worn by men.
• Isiagu: a traditional top, usually worn by men, and often made in patterned fabric.
• Blouse and Wrapper: a fitted or loose blouse worn with a length of cloth tied round the waist.
• Agbada: a wide, flowing outer garment worn over a top and trousers.

• Aim of the project: make an outfit that fits well and respects the fabric.
• Link to earlier projects: it builds on the shirts and gowns already sewn.

What fabrics are used for traditional wear?

Ankara, lace and Guinea brocade are the common fabrics for traditional wear.

What measurements are needed?

Body measurements are the sizes taken round and along the body so the garment fits.

• Neck circumference: needed for tops such as Buba and Agbada.
• Shoulder to knee or ankle: gives the length of the garment.
• Hip and waist: needed for the trousers or wrapper.
• Chest and sleeve length: used to size the body and the sleeves of the top.

• Remember: traditional clothes are often sewn a little “freer” than English clothes.
• Accuracy: the measurements must still be exact.

What tools are needed?

The tools are the basic items used to measure, mark, cut, sew and press.

• Tape measure: takes body measurements.
• Tailor’s chalk: marks the cutting lines on the fabric.
• Scissors: cut the fabric.
• Needle, thread and sewing machine: join the pieces.
• Iron: presses seams and the finished outfit.

What is free-hand cutting?

Free-hand cutting is drawing the pattern straight on the fabric with chalk, without using paper.

• Who uses it: most traditional Nigerian tailors.
• Main benefit: it saves the time of making a paper pattern.

Steps in free-hand cutting

1. Fold the fabric: traditional tops like the Buba are often cut in a rectangular shape. Fold the fabric into four so the front and back are cut together.
2. Mark the neckline: draw the neck opening with chalk. Take great care at this step.
3. Cut the sleeves: cut each sleeve as a separate rectangle, to be joined to the main body.

Neckline rules

• Neck too big: the outfit will fall off the shoulders.
• Neck too small: the head will not pass through.
• Tip: start small. You can make a hole bigger, but you cannot make it smaller.

Why are the sleeves cut as rectangles?

• Boxy look: rectangular sleeves joined to the body give the loose shape of traditional wear.
• Comfort: the loose shape allows easy movement.

How is a traditional outfit sewn?

A traditional outfit is sewn in four steps: shoulders, sleeves, sides, then the bottom.

• Strong seams: these clothes are often worn for dancing and big celebrations, so seams must hold.

Step 1: Join the shoulders

1. Place the front and back together.
2. Sew them at the top along the shoulders.
3. For a male top, make a placket if needed. A placket is the opening at the neck for buttons.

Step 2: Attach the sleeves

1. Lay the body flat.
2. Sew the rectangular sleeves to the sides.
3. Check that the centres match perfectly.

Step 3: Close the sides

1. Start at the wrist of the sleeve.
2. Sew down to the armpit.
3. Continue down to the bottom of the top.

• Slit: leave a small opening at the bottom sides of many traditional tops for easy movement.

Step 4: Make the bottom

• Trousers (Shokoto): sew the crotch area first, before joining the legs.
• Wrapper: this is simpler, but it needs a very neat hem on all four sides so the threads do not pull out.

How is a traditional outfit finished?

Finishing is the neatening and decorating that makes an outfit look professional.

• Difference made: finishing separates a “home-made” cloth from a “designer” one.

Finishing steps

1. Neaten the neckline: use a facing or bias tape. For male outfits, add a top-stitch, which is a visible line of sewing that makes the neck look crisp.
2. Add embroidery (optional): use an embroidery machine for designs around the neck or pockets. Neat hand-stitching with shiny thread is also good.
3. Press the outfit: brocade and heavy Ankara need plenty of steam and heat to lay flat. Press every seam open.

How is the project assessed?

The project is assessed by checking fit, seams and symmetry.

What advice helps students sew well?

• Take your time: traditional attire is a work of art.
• Sew slowly: it is better to get it right than to rush and spoil a beautiful piece of Ankara.

Evaluation

1. Name three fabrics used for traditional wear and give one feature of each.
2. What is free-hand cutting?
3. Why should the neckline be cut small at first?
4. List the four steps used to sew a traditional top and its bottom.
5. State three things to check when assessing a finished outfit.

Assignment

Take the measurements of a classmate for a Buba and Shokoto, then list the steps you would follow to cut and sew the Buba.