Practical Project LI – JSS3 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (First Term)

A simple shift gown is a plain, straight-hanging dress that covers the whole body and is shaped with darts, a faced neckline, a back zip and a hem.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

1. Choose a suitable fabric and quantity for a simple shift gown.
2. Take the five body measurements needed for a gown.
3. Cut out and join the front and back pieces, including darts and a hem allowance.
4. Finish a neckline with a facing and an armhole with a bias strip.
5. Fix a back zip, hem the gown and press it neatly.

What are the key terms in this project?

These are the words students must know before starting the gown.

How do you choose the style and fabric for a gown?

A gown covers the whole body, so it must hang well and look graceful.

• Style: a Simple Shift Gown is used for this project.
• Fabrics to avoid: slippery fabrics such as silk or chiffon are hard to cut and sew for a first project.
• Best choices: cotton, Ankara or linen.
• Quantity: for a JSS3 student, 2 to 3 yards is usually enough.
• Other materials: matching thread, a zip, pins, tailor’s chalk, scissors, a tape rule, paper for the pattern and an iron.

What measurements are needed for a gown?

Five measurements are needed, and each must be taken carefully.

How is the gown pattern drafted?

The gown pattern is drafted in two main pieces, the front and the back.

• Front piece: has darts near the bust so the gown fits the body shape better.
• Back piece: drafted from the same measurements, with an opening left for the zip.
• Paper pattern: draft on paper first, then cut it out and pin it to the fabric.

How do you cut the fabric?

Cut the fabric by folding it, pinning the paper pattern on it and cutting with a hem allowance.

1. Fold the fabric in half, or into four, so that the front and back pieces can be cut from it.
2. Pin the paper pattern firmly to the fabric.
3. Mark the seam allowance and the darts with tailor’s chalk.
4. Leave about 2 inches (5 cm) at the bottom for the hem.
5. Cut out the pieces carefully.

• Important: if you cut exactly at your length, the gown will be too short after sewing.

How do you assemble the gown?

The gown is assembled by sewing the darts first, then joining the shoulders and sides.

Step 1: Sewing the darts

• Sew the darts before joining the pieces.
• The small V shapes help the gown to fit and stop it looking like a sack.

Step 2: Joining the shoulders and sides

1. Place the right sides of the front and back together.
2. Sew the shoulders first.
3. Sew down the sides, from the armhole all the way to the bottom.

How do you finish the neckline with a facing?

A facing is a piece of fabric cut in the shape of the neck hole and sewn inside to give a neat neckline.

• Why it matters: the neckline is the first thing people see, and a rough one spoils the whole gown.

Steps to finish the neckline

1. Cut a piece of fabric in the exact shape of the neck hole. This is the facing.
2. Place the facing on the neck of the gown with the right sides touching.
3. Sew round the neckline.
4. Make tiny notches (small cuts) in the seam allowance. This helps the neck lie flat when turned inside.
5. Turn the facing to the inside of the gown and iron it flat.

How do you finish the sleeves or armholes?

Sleeves are fixed as in the shirt project, and sleeveless armholes are finished with a bias strip.

• With sleeves: fix them the same way as in the shirt project.
• Sleeveless: use a bias strip to finish the armholes neatly.

How do you fix a zip and hem the gown?

Most gowns need a zip at the back so the wearer can get in and out.

Fixing the zip

1. Leave an opening at the back seam.
2. Iron the edges of the opening flat.
3. Pin the zip in place.
4. Sew slowly. Do not let the thread cover the teeth of the zip, or it will not open.

Hemming the bottom

1. Try the gown on and check the length.
2. If the length is right, fold the bottom edge twice and sew it.
3. For a very neat finish, use a blind stitch (hand sewing) so no thread shows outside.

Final pressing

• A gown is not finished until it is ironed.
• Press the side seams open so they do not pucker or look bulky.

What mistakes should students avoid?

• Short gown: forgetting the 2-inch hem allowance when cutting.
• Stuck zip: sewing thread over the zip teeth.
• Curled neckline: leaving out the notches in the facing seam allowance.
• Sack-like shape: skipping the darts.
• Bulky seams: not pressing the side seams open.

How is the gown project graded?

The gown is graded on fit, neatness and symmetry.

Teacher’s note: students wear their finished gown with pride, since it is a full outfit made from a flat piece of cloth.

Evaluation

1. Name two fabrics suitable for the gown project and one to avoid.
2. List the five measurements needed for a gown.
3. Why must you leave about 2 inches at the bottom when cutting?
4. State the steps for finishing a neckline with a facing.
5. Why should the teeth of the zip not be covered by thread?

Assignment

Write the steps for making a simple shift gown in order, from taking measurements to final pressing. Add one sentence to explain why each step matters.