Garment Construction IV – JSS3 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (First Term)

Advanced finishing is the final work done to a garment to make it neat, strong and professional, inside and outside.

• Class: JSS3
• Subject: Fashion Design and Garment Making
• Topic: Garment Construction IV (linings and advanced finishing)

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

1. Define finishing and lining.
2. State four reasons for finishing a garment well.
3. Name common lining fabrics and give one use of each.
4. List the steps for attaching a lining.
5. Describe facing, bias binding and understitching.
6. Explain the difference between a seam and finishing.

What is advanced finishing?

Finishing is the final work done to a garment to make it neat, durable and professional.

• Advanced finishing: goes beyond joining seams, by hiding raw edges and making the inside look as good as the outside.
• Raw edge: a cut edge of cloth that has not been folded, bound or stitched, so it can fray.
• Fraying: the loosening and unravelling of threads at a cut edge.
• Fashion fabric: the main cloth used for the outside of the garment.

A dress in a good boutique and one made by a beginner usually differ in their finishing.

Why is advanced finishing important?

Good finishing makes a garment comfortable, strong, attractive and able to keep its shape.

1. Comfort: it stops rough fabric edges from scratching the skin.
2. Strength: it keeps the fabric from fraying.
3. Beauty: it gives the garment a crisp, expensive look.
4. Shape: it helps the cloth hold its shape after many washes.

What is a lining?

A lining is a separate layer of soft, smooth fabric attached to the inside of a garment.

• Example: turn a school blazer or a dinner gown inside out, and the smooth fabric you see is the lining.

What fabrics are used for lining?

Common lining fabrics include silk, satin, cotton voile and taffeta.

• Silk or satin: gives a luxury feel.
• Cotton (voile): suits hot weather because it breathes.
• Taffeta: a little stiffer, so it gives gowns more volume.

What are the benefits of lining a garment?

• Hides seams: it covers the seams and raw edges inside.
• Easy to wear: the cloth slides over the skin.
• Opacity: it stops thin fabrics from being see-through.
• Weight and warmth: it adds a little of both to the outfit.

How do you attach a lining?

Attaching a lining is like making the same garment twice: once in the fashion fabric and once in the lining fabric.

1. Drafting: use the same pattern pieces to cut the lining, but make it slightly shorter so it does not peek out at the hem.
2. Sewing: sew the lining pieces together just like the main garment.
3. Joining: place the right sides of the main fabric and the lining together, then sew around the neckline and armholes.
4. Turning: pull the garment through to the right side, so the seams are trapped in the middle and hidden.
5. Pressing: use an iron to flatten the edges so the lining stays tucked inside.

What are the other advanced finishing techniques?

Other advanced finishing techniques include facing, bias binding and understitching.

Facing

• Meaning: a small piece of fabric cut to the exact shape of the neckline or armhole.
• Use: it replaces a full lining when you do not want to line the whole dress.
• Method: it is sewn on and turned inward to give a clean edge.

Decorative hems with bias tape

• Meaning: bias tape is a narrow strip of cloth cut on the diagonal (the bias), which stretches and curves easily.
• Use: it binds an edge instead of a basic fold-and-stitch hem.
• Result: it adds a pop of colour and keeps the edge strong.

Understitching

• Meaning: a line of small stitches sewn on the lining or facing side, close to the seam.
• When: it is done after the lining or facing has been sewn on.
• Result: it pulls the lining inward so it never shows on the outside.

What is the difference between a seam and finishing?

A seam is a line of stitches that joins two or more pieces of fabric.

Finishing is the work done after or around the stitching to make the garment neat and durable.

Evaluation

1. Define finishing and lining.
2. State four reasons for finishing a garment well.
3. Why would you use a cotton lining instead of a satin one for a summer dress?
4. List the five steps for attaching a lining in order.
5. What is the difference between a seam and finishing?

Assignment

• Turn your school uniform or a jacket inside out.
• Write down whether the seams are visible or hidden by a lining.
• Name any finishing you can see, such as a facing or bound edge.

Teacher’s note

• Remind students that an iron is a tailor’s best friend.
• Most advanced finishing looks good only because it was pressed properly at every step.