Advanced Pattern Drafting – JSS3 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (First Term)

Advanced pattern drafting is the skill of drawing paper templates that follow the shape of the human body, so that flat cloth fits curves such as the bust, waist and hips.

Behavioural objectives

1. Define a full garment pattern and a basic block.
2. Name the main pieces found in a full pattern.
3. Explain seam allowance and darts.
4. List the steps for drafting a full garment pattern in order.
5. Identify the grainline, place on fold and notch symbols.

What is a full garment pattern?

A full garment pattern is a complete set of paper templates used to cut every piece of fabric needed for one outfit, such as a shirt, a dress or trousers.

• Brown paper: the paper most often used in class to draft patterns.
• Body shape: a person is not flat, so the pattern must allow for shoulders, bust, waist and hips.
• Pattern set: one garment usually needs several paper pieces, not one.

Why do tailors use patterns?

Tailors use patterns to save fabric, to make garments the same size every time and to get a neat fit.

• Saving fabric: you arrange the paper pieces on the cloth before cutting, so little is wasted.
• Consistency: ten shirts cut from the same pattern come out the same size.
• Professional look: the cloth sits well on the body and does not fold in the wrong places.

What are the components of a full pattern?

A full pattern has four main components: the front piece, the back piece, the sleeves and the facings or collar.

Main pieces

• Front piece: cut on a fold, or as two halves if the garment opens with buttons.
• Back piece: shaped differently from the front, for example with a higher neckline, to allow movement.
• Sleeves: the hardest part, because each sleeve must be drafted to fit the armhole.
• Facing and collar: small pieces that finish the neckline or make the collar stand up.

Key terms

• Seam allowance: the extra cloth (usually 1 to 2 cm) left outside the stitching line for the machine to sew on.
• Dart: a wedge-shaped fold stitched into the cloth so it fits a curve such as the bust or hip.
• Basic block: a plain template in the wearer’s size with no style added.
• Style line: a line drawn on the block to give a design, such as a V-neck.

What are the steps in drafting a full garment pattern?

Drafting follows four steps: measure, draft the block, add style lines, then cut and label.

1. Take accurate measurements: you cannot draft without numbers. Measure the bust or chest, waist, hip, shoulder width and full length.
2. Draft the basic block: draw the plain foundation on paper using the measurements.
3. Add style lines: draw the design on the block, such as a V-neck or round neck, and long or short sleeves.
4. Cut and label: cut out each piece and write on it, for example “Front piece, cut 2” or “Back piece, cut on fold”.

• Why label: unlabelled pieces cause confusion when you start sewing.
• Add seam allowance: if the pattern shows only stitching lines, add the allowance when marking the fabric. Without it the garment sews up too small.
• Practise on paper first: it is cheaper to spoil brown paper than 5 yards of Ankara.

What are the common pattern symbols?

Pattern symbols are standard marks that tell the tailor how to place, cut and join each piece.

Evaluation

1. Define a full garment pattern.
2. Name the four main components of a full pattern.
3. State the four steps of drafting in order.
4. What do the grainline and the place on fold symbols tell the tailor?
5. Why must seam allowance be added before cutting the fabric?

Assignment

Draw a simple top. Then sketch the flat paper pieces for it, and label each piece with its name and how many to cut.