Practical Project LI – JSS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Third Term)

Practical Project II is the making of one lower-body garment: either a traditional wrapper or a pair of simple drawstring trousers.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

1. Choose between making a wrapper and making drawstring trousers, and give a reason.
2. List the materials and tools needed for the project.
3. Make a wrapper by measuring, straightening the edges and hemming.
4. Take the four key trouser measurements, including crotch depth.
5. Cut and sew drawstring trousers in the correct order.
6. Check a finished garment with the project checklist.

Which garment can you make for Project II?

You can make a traditional wrapper or simple drawstring trousers, and each one teaches a different skill.

• Traditional wrapper: a large rectangle of cloth tied round the waist and worn as a skirt.
• Simple drawstring trousers: trousers with a cord or elastic waist, often called “pyjama style” or “native trousers”.

What materials are needed for the project?

You need fabric, a fastening for the waist (trousers only) and your basic sewing kit.

• Fabric: 2 to 2.5 yards of Ankara, crepe or poplin.
• Fastenings: a strong cord or elastic for the trouser waist.
• Tools: scissors, tape measure, chalk and pins.

What are the key terms in this project?

These words are used often in the steps below.

• Raw edge: a cut side of the fabric that can fray.
• Selvedge: the edge finished by the factory, which does not fray.
• Hem: a raw edge folded over and stitched down.
• Straight stitch: the basic stitch used to sew hems and seams.
• Crotch: the curved part where the two trouser legs meet.
• Tunnel (casing): the folded waistband that holds the cord or elastic.

How do you make a traditional wrapper?

A wrapper is made by measuring the length, straightening the edges and hemming the raw edges neatly.

• A standard wrapper must be finished perfectly to look neat and traditional.
• A single wrapper is usually 2 yards long.
• A double wrapper needs two separate pieces of 2 yards each.

Steps to follow

1. Measure the length: measure and mark 2 yards for a standard wrapper, or two pieces of 2 yards for a double wrapper.
2. Straighten the edges: fabric from the market is often not cut straight, so trim the edges until they are perfectly straight.
3. Fold the raw edges: fold each raw edge over twice so the cut edge is hidden.
4. Pin the folds: pin along each fold to hold it in place.
5. Stitch the hem: sew the folds down with a straight stitch.
6. Treat the selvedge: leave it as it is, or give it a very small fold.

• Pro-tip: for a special occasion, add fringes or beading at the ends.

How do you make simple drawstring trousers?

Drawstring trousers are made by taking measurements, cutting four pieces and sewing them together in a set order.

• Trousers are more technical than a wrapper.
• They must allow you to sit, walk and climb stairs without ripping.

What are the key measurements?

• Waist: measured loosely.
• Hips: the widest part of the body below the waist.
• Trouser length: from the waist to the ankle.
• Crotch depth: sit on a flat chair and measure from the waist down to the seat of the chair.

How are the trouser pieces cut?

• Number of pieces: four, which are two front pieces and two back pieces.
• Size of back pieces: always slightly bigger than the front pieces.
• Reason: the extra size gives room for the buttocks.

What is the sewing order?

1. Join the crotch: join the two front pieces together at the curve, then join the two back pieces.
2. Sew the inner legs: open the pieces up. Sew the inside of the legs from one ankle, up through the crotch and down to the other ankle.
3. Sew the side seams: join the outer sides.
4. Make the waistband tunnel: fold the top down about 2 inches. Sew around it and leave a small 1-inch hole.
5. Thread the fastening: pass the elastic or cord through the hole and tie or join the ends.
6. Hem the legs: hem both ankle ends neatly.

What are the success tips for making trousers?

Three habits help your trousers fit well and last longer.

• Cut a “U” curve: the crotch curve should be a deep “U”. A sharp “V” makes the trousers uncomfortable and likely to tear when you sit.
• Reinforce the seams: the crotch area takes a lot of stress, so sew over that seam twice to make it extra strong.
• Finish the hem well: hem the ankles neatly and check that both legs are exactly the same length before you sew.

What is on the project checklist?

Use these questions to check your finished garment.

• Waist: is the elastic or cord tight enough to hold the trousers up?
• Side seams: are they straight?
• Pressing: did you press the seams open so they do not look bulky?
• Hems: are the hems even and neat?

Evaluation

1. Why is the back piece of a trouser usually bigger than the front piece?
2. What is the danger of cutting a “V” shape instead of a “U” shape at the crotch?
3. How many yards of fabric are usually needed for a single wrapper?
4. Explain how to measure crotch depth.
5. Why should the crotch seam be sewn twice?

Assignment

1. Choose either the wrapper or the drawstring trousers.
2. Write the materials you need and the steps you will follow, in order.